Help removing the front strut bar ...
Does anyone know what the propers steps are when you need to remove the fronts strut bar ? Can I just unscrew 4 bolts from left and right ? thanks
There are two ways to do it. If the front of your car is on jack stands (like mine was), you can just remove the bolts and lift it up. You will be limited by the wiring harnesses, unless you remove them from the bases of the strut bar.
If the front of your car is on the ground, there will be tension on the strut bar. You will have to loosen the tensioning nuts on the right side of the bar before loosening the strut bar mounting bolts (3) and nut.
If the front of your car is on the ground, there will be tension on the strut bar. You will have to loosen the tensioning nuts on the right side of the bar before loosening the strut bar mounting bolts (3) and nut.
Trending Topics
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by FarSeide
First I need to undo the circle part first (picture below) and then remove the 4 bolts from each side ?
First I need to undo the circle part first (picture below) and then remove the 4 bolts from each side ?
undoing the tension depends on how tight your bar was set by the factory. if there is tension on the bar & you unscrew the bolts one side will pop up slightly & could damage the threads on the one threaded post that is part of the upper strut tower. it only takes a few seconds to see if there is tension before removing the bolts so why not do it? just loosen the two end nuts on the tension bolt(reverse thread). then turn the center nut of the tension bolt, this turns the entire tension bolt. if there is tension it will be hard to turn & the nut will need turned from the down postion to the up position when facing the front of the car(or cc if facing the passenger side). where you feel it is easiest to turn the center tension bolt is where you should leave it before removing the bolts at the base at each end........cant hurt to be safe! best of luck!
-justin
-justin
undoing the tension depends on how tight your bar was set by the factory. if there is tension on the bar & you unscrew the bolts one side will pop up slightly & could damage the threads on the one threaded post that is part of the upper strut tower. it only takes a few seconds to see if there is tension before removing the bolts so why not do it? just loosen the two end nuts on the tension bolt(reverse thread). then turn the center nut of the tension bolt, this turns the entire tension bolt. if there is tension it will be hard to turn & the nut will need turned from the down postion to the up position when facing the front of the car(or cc if facing the passenger side). where you feel it is easiest to turn the center tension bolt is where you should leave it before removing the bolts at the base at each end........cant hurt to be safe! best of luck!
-justin
-justin
i doubt who you quoted will respond, he hasn't logged in to the site in 7 years. what you need to do is already posted in this thread.. particularly posts 7 and 11.
btw, congrats on responding to an 11 year old dead thread
Last edited by travlee; May 31, 2015 at 07:02 AM.
I believe the proper way to put it back on requires getting the front of the car off the ground and the adjusting the bolt on the strut tower bar to the proper length (mark the original position first) then bolt it back up and tighten back to the original position
Regards. I've some 'sperience here. CAI. Plugs. Paint the engine cover, paint the strut. Detail the engine bay. Because I'm not the best wrench in town, somethings twice.
My first removal, noticed the last bolt removed from one side was burred. Hmmm, maybe should have thought about that big tension adjuster on one end of the strut? Backed it off, chased the threads on the damaged bolt & proceeded with the task.
Put all back on, the strut grabbed the still tender fresh paint off the cover. Do it all over again. Put it back on, extended the adjuster before tightening the bolts, then the snug nuts on the adjuster. Plenty of clearance on the cover but now the hood is a little too much into the strut. 'K, we'll go for a heavy mm above the cover. S'all good. Clean up & step back to admire a job well done. Gap margin between hood & fender is off now. More tension added to the strut, checked all clearances again, adjusted everything again & then tightened the strut snug nuts. Learned a little, fiddled a little & now it's all good.
IMHO, good advice, uninformed advice above. Mark the original location, that's a good plan. Back off the adjuster until it can be turned easily by hand, then remove strut. Impact wrench now not needed. Reinstall. The threaded inserts for those bolts are welded to the shock towers, strip'em with that impact & what ya' going to do bout that? A 1/2" ratchet will do. If there's a problem getting the bolts restarted, stop & figure it out! Check for clearance above & below. Close hood & check for equal panel gap. Adjust as needed & done. Not plug 'n play but still Ez Pz.
My first removal, noticed the last bolt removed from one side was burred. Hmmm, maybe should have thought about that big tension adjuster on one end of the strut? Backed it off, chased the threads on the damaged bolt & proceeded with the task.
Put all back on, the strut grabbed the still tender fresh paint off the cover. Do it all over again. Put it back on, extended the adjuster before tightening the bolts, then the snug nuts on the adjuster. Plenty of clearance on the cover but now the hood is a little too much into the strut. 'K, we'll go for a heavy mm above the cover. S'all good. Clean up & step back to admire a job well done. Gap margin between hood & fender is off now. More tension added to the strut, checked all clearances again, adjusted everything again & then tightened the strut snug nuts. Learned a little, fiddled a little & now it's all good.
IMHO, good advice, uninformed advice above. Mark the original location, that's a good plan. Back off the adjuster until it can be turned easily by hand, then remove strut. Impact wrench now not needed. Reinstall. The threaded inserts for those bolts are welded to the shock towers, strip'em with that impact & what ya' going to do bout that? A 1/2" ratchet will do. If there's a problem getting the bolts restarted, stop & figure it out! Check for clearance above & below. Close hood & check for equal panel gap. Adjust as needed & done. Not plug 'n play but still Ez Pz.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ars88
Zs & Gs For Sale
18
Apr 4, 2016 07:52 AM
Dark Knight
Wheels Tires
7
Nov 11, 2015 08:40 PM









