Ryan

Cool..

Brad4rdHay

Unfortunately, your "contact" got in some trouble with the higher ups at Nissan after this...poor guy.

mike952

Thanks...but when I posted this...I didn't have my car yet. I do not mind the shifter at all...lets see how it is after 4k rpm...

Ryan

lol

frayed

LOL! Zoro, it's something you work up to. T1 at the track local to me I take flat out at the end of the front straight. I'm going about 130 generally, 120-135 depending on temps and tailwind.

I typically will drift a bit at turn-in. It's really a beautiful thing, when you can trust your car that it will stick.

Scarier is another turn at the track that I also take flat out on those laps where I have the sack. 105-110 mph, 60 degree left turn with lots of banking. Talk about pucker.

Zoro

Only in a controlled enviorment, "no other cars on the track" or atleast in my immediate are area. In fact I was just checking out the price of a SNELL approved Arai helmet almost $1000 holy shift.

There's a track about 50 miles away Waterford here in MI I think I'm gonna rent a little track time, better than speeding tickets.

commasense

Frayed:

Do you have any recommendations for street legal rubber that will do well on the track? Should I use up the stock tires first, or change them before going?

A quick glance at the specs on the Bridgestone RE040s on Tire Rack's Web site made it clear they're inferior to the (ironically less expensive) Bridgestone S03s. Would you recommend them, or do you know of other options?

This is not an academic question. I'll be taking my Z to the track for two sessions in early December (weather permitting).

Also, any suggestions for simple setup changes for the track? Ideas about tire inflations?

(FYI, I have three years of track experience, about 15 events in Miata or 944 Turbo. Also did the Skip Barber School, in case any of this helps in your answer. Unfortunately no garage and little more than basic mechanical skills and tools.)

Thanks.

--James
Lemans Sunset Track

frayed

James,

With 15 events in three years, you should grab an extra set of wheels and R comps. You certainly are skilled enough with all that track time.

Goodyear GS-CS, Kumho Ecsta v700 and Victos, Hoo Hoos, Toyo RA1's, Yoks, Michelins PSCs, Azenis, are all candidates. I have no experience with the Azenis since they come in weird sizes. I'm running some shaved Toyos right now, and love the way they feel, but my laptimes aren't as good as with Kumhos. They do offer more life, are very heat tolerant, and can be easily driven to the track due to their almost street-like ability to handle heat cycles.

Hoo hoos are too expensive and have too short of life for DE's IMHO. The Goodyears are great, since they don't go away like the hoo hoos, but certainly don't last like the Toyos.

Heard lots of varying experiences with the new Michelins. I have yet to try them. Basically billed as a shaved Toyo on steroids. At the track this weekend, there were quite a few folks running them in the BMW CCA Club Race finals at TWS.

I don't like the Yoks at all. A glorified, greasy, noisy street tire.

Depending on the tire, some have to be shaved to get decent durability and grip (too much tread squirm can overcook Kumhos, for example).

Let me know what your needs are, maybe I can guide you to a decent choice.

If you want one tire to do it all, street and track, I'd go with either the Bridgestone S03 or the new Kumho MX. The MX rides rougher, but matches the S03 in dry traction (if not surpasses). The S03 is still the king in the wet though, due to the high silica content, dual rubber construction.

-------

No matter what you do, the Z pushes too much on the track. You'll have to add more front camber to dial out some of that push, and preserve your tires. Depending on the tire, you can run into chunking and wear issues with too little camber. . . most R comps need 2.5+ degrees for optimal pyrometer temps.

On my M3, I've found -2.8 to work well to dial out push and to get decent wear and temp readings. Not sure what the Z chassis will need, however.

typeR

toyo has a tire called RA-1 i suggest giving it a look
www.toyo.com

frayed

Here's a pic of the Toyo RA1's, 255/40-17, next to my cooked Kumho Ecsta V700, 235/40-17.

The Kumhos only had 4 track days on them and were done. They did grip like mad though during that short time.

EnthuZ

iTrader: (2)

Great info on track rubber! Thanks for sharing

Attn. moderators!!!!!!!!

Can you please move these track tire posts to a separate thread? I think the info is unrelated to the original topic, and the members would be better served with a new thread.

Too bad my personal concern now is snow tires

Later, I'll burn up the stock tires, finding the cars limits at a slightly slower speed, before I invest in sticky meats!

2.8 dee grees negative camber............sounds like a sheeeeeeet load. Do you adjust between track and street, or do you run 2.8 all the time?

commasense

Frayed,

Thanks for the info.

For the time being I don't think a separate set of track wheels and tires are in the cards: I live in a condo with no garage.

So the S-03s look like my best choice, but my question is, should I just take them to the track for a couple of sessions, use them up, and toss them next year?

Or would I be better off getting the S-03s now, unloading the RE040s on eBay with only 1200 miles on them?

I guess what it comes down to is, how bad will the RE040s be on the track? Dangerous, really unpleasant, or just no fun?

Also, what's involved in adjusting the camber? Something I can do myself without a shop and special equipment? If I adjust it to the settings you suggest, is it okay to leave it there for daily street driving?

Thanks.

--James
Lemans Sunset Track

frayed

Doh! I know your pain. While I live in TX, I grew up in Rochester, NY. Snow hell.

Naw, not too bad. R comps like lots of camber; most companies, from Kumho, to Toyo, to Hoo Hoo, recommends at least 2.5. As far as adjustment goes, it's tough on a McPherson strut like my car. I'm not certain what's involved with the Z chassis, but most double A arm setups are camber adjustable.

I run zero toe to quicken turn in and minimize tire wear on the street . Bear in mind that all manufacturers specify toe-in for straight line stability, while most of my racer buddies run toe-out for optimal track performance. I straddle this line for a combo car.

S03's should last for multiple weekends and a year's worth of street driving.

I've never run RE040s. However, being generally familiar with Bridgestone and knowing one of their performance tire engineers/tire tester gurus, I suspect the 040's would be fine on the track to beat up for a few weekends and run on the street until they are cooked. Personally, I'd run them till they have no tread, or are heat cycled to oblivion and generate no grip. This track **** is expensive enough, no need to pitch perfectly good tires to break you Z cherry on at the track.

See above. On the street v. track, I leave my settings alone and make a street/track compromise. It's tough enough on track days to swap out brake pads, tires, remove crap from interior, bring track supplies, book hotel, be nice to wife for two weeks to get a hall pass, etc. A combo alignment setting works if you are judicious about how you set up the entire car.

Hope that helps.

I just returned from 3 days on the track, one of which was unlimited lapping on the 2.9 mile road course, which is known by racers that have competed on it as a true driver's course. I spent the whole weekend as one of few DE students, surrounded by the best BMW CCA racers in the country, and got some one-on-one instruction by a pro driver from Germany hired by a group from cali. If any of you get an opportunity for track time with hard core racers from one of the various racing leagues, it's truly a great experience. . . when I wasn't driving, I was helping a few racers tech their cars, and worked as pit crew for others.

Sheeit, I'm so tired, I'm still recovering. A good tired though.

raceboy

Don't go with the S03's go with the BFG GForce T/A. Simply the best dry traction true street tire on the market. And decent enough in the wet as well (although admitedly no S03 in the wet).

BTW, Frayed; what track in TX are you talking about where you are entering turn 1 at 130MPH?? Are you talking in the Z??

Gabe

You guys need to start calling AEM about the EMS computer. I have an AEM EMS computer on my daily driven Supra Turbo that makes 600HP at the wheels and it is awsome! The EMS is socketed like the cars factory ECU so basically you ditch the stock ECU and plug in the new AEM EMS. Whatever you guys do wether it be an intake and exhaust, full turbo, S/C, NOS (EMS has NOS map control) the adaptive stock ECU with have to go to make any power. the EMS has features better than Motec and has none of the wiring fees ect. They usually sell it with some base mapping on the vehicle specific applications but from there you just need to get some good tuning. The software is provided to you. My Supra drives like stock! You guys will see it in Super Street in March (it's black). I wouldn't BS you guys because I have a personal interest, I'm getting a G35 coupe and want an EMS! Start creating the demad so they will make one sooner. It has so many features, do some looking into it.
Thanks.

Intrepid

AEM doesn't offer this for the 350Z yet. Looking forward to an announcement.

Liquiid Ice

Ask about the 350Z convertible, like will it be hard top/soft top, and most importantly will it keep the 5.4sec 0-60 or atleast an under 6sec 0-60.

BrianZ

... I think he's been discussing driving an M3. Hence the whole BMW CCA thing ....

Wicked4u2c

iTrader: (6)

I am surprised nobody has really talked about Engine Managment like AEM? I know their is not one available yet... Why would you want to get a chip that can have unstable affects. Rememeber, when they tune that chip, you most likely have to be running the same setup IE Nismo chip, you must run nismo intake nismo headers and nismo exhaust. And also, altitude, weather and all those things come in to factor. For example, I live In california and our top gas here in our area is only 91 Octane. That is in important factor because some of you have 93+ So why be limited.. An engine Management would be a lot more benificial as you can tune "your" car to "your" setup and also if you run boost you can also tune it. My previous car was a Turbocharged Honda Civic SI was featured in several magazines and was sponsored by Venom Racing. Now, I had a standalone (HONDATA) and when I first bought my car I had a Jackson Racing Supercharger. Now I know most of you want to go supercharger but let me tell you that is not the path I would choose. Let me explain why and my .02 cents. Unless the supercharger has some sort of intercooler it is very dangerous to run. Having a standalone unit gave me the ability to datalog and monitor my engine parameters. With the supercharger my intake temperatures were above 190degrees! The supercharger is a heater! Heat soaks sucks! I sold the damn thing and went with a Greddy Turbo Charger. Its funny how people are so afraid of these things and say its worse than a supercharger. I say a Turbocharger is for the real enthusiast that wants to see his cars optimal performance. Unless you don't mind changing your oil every 2,000 miles and spark plugs often than a Turbo Charger is as reliable as a supercharger. When I datalogged my car with the Turbo the Intake Temps were 60degrees!!! Compared to 190 for the supercharger. Now that is a BIG difference, of course I did have a front mount intercooler but you can see that cooler temp will also help the longevity of the motor. I never had any problems with my car boosting 10PSI on a stock Civic SI motor running 250+ Horsepower to the wheels and low 13's on the track on street tires. I thank late upgraded the pistons because I wanted to make more horsepower, but with the lower compression pistons I didn't make that much more.. Here are the links to my article on HCI magazine with my civic for those who are interested.

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I had this setup for a little over 1 year before changing out the internals and did a compression check right before I changed out the internals and had 205 all across the board. Now I also ran nitrous with this car and had no problems. That just shows that a well tuned boosted engine is as reliable as a Naturally Aspirated motor. Im not here to say I know it all, but I can see a lot of members are lacking knowledge and just going on people's opinon rather than personal experience. It shouldn't matter if you have boost and have a perfect A/F ratio, of course their is also a rule of thumb. You can be running 20PSI on a perfect A/F and still pop your engine. The true question is how much can the stock internals hold without cracking.. Supras have seen over 900WHP on stock internals. This thread has excellent information, Again these are my personal thoughts and feeling towards things, but unless the supercharger has I/C than I wouldn't bother....