Aftermarket seats in the Roadster??
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Aftermarket seats in the Roadster??
So Ive started noticing the weird and apparently intentional "crookedness" of the stock drivers seat. Its really starting to irritate my back, and I want to get some after market seats. My main concern however is the fact that the seats have to move forward slightly to allow the top to open, a problem which Im sure would be exacerbated by most after market seats.
I did search around for answers before posting and only found one thread about the seats in the roadster, where somebody suggested that the tilt forward thing in the ZR is a gimmick. I have personally noticed that to be false as a passenger in my car tried to move it while the top was going down and the seat DID get in the way. Of course I kicked him in the nuts for being impatient, and move the seat back again, so I know this is of real concern. I dont want to have lean over the seat and move it every time I close or open the top so its important that they are short.
Ive been looking at the Corbeau CR1 and Sparco Torino but I need to make sure they fit before I start ordering stuff. Are any of you aware of any seats that are short enough to use in a roadster?
I did search around for answers before posting and only found one thread about the seats in the roadster, where somebody suggested that the tilt forward thing in the ZR is a gimmick. I have personally noticed that to be false as a passenger in my car tried to move it while the top was going down and the seat DID get in the way. Of course I kicked him in the nuts for being impatient, and move the seat back again, so I know this is of real concern. I dont want to have lean over the seat and move it every time I close or open the top so its important that they are short.
Ive been looking at the Corbeau CR1 and Sparco Torino but I need to make sure they fit before I start ordering stuff. Are any of you aware of any seats that are short enough to use in a roadster?
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Originally Posted by kenpo_350Z
If I am wrong someone can tell me, but the Roadster actually has more headroom than the coupe. If that is the case any seats that would fit the coupe should fit the roadster fine.
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I recall reading that the tilt forward function on the passenger seat can be disabled in order to accomodate strapping in a child safety seat. It seems to me that if the factory built in a user-controlled disable function, then the seat forward tilt function must not be mandatory for top movement or clearance.
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If the passenger side need to tilt forward in order for the top to go down, then why wouldn't the driver side tilt forward also? Sounds like a gimmick.
There should be a part you can buy so you can mount the rail for the seat to sit lower. This is also better for lower center of gravity for handling.
There should be a part you can buy so you can mount the rail for the seat to sit lower. This is also better for lower center of gravity for handling.
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I went out to my car and tested this out a couple times, just make sure I wasnt crazy. The cross bar WILL hit the head rest if the head rest is up more than an inch or two and the seat is in a certain position. Which is probably the reason for he feature. Its just accounting for the possibility of the head rest being up. So I suppose as long as the seats are not any taller than the stock seats with the head rest down all the way then I should be good.
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specialized5223...this may be what you remember:
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...-roll-bar.html
However, it will NOT satisfy requirements for track use.
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...-roll-bar.html
However, it will NOT satisfy requirements for track use.
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I guess I have been away from the boards for a while.
The roll cage can be built any way you want it. There are reasons the rearward connection does not go all the way back, I did not want him cutting into my customer fiberglass enclosures any more then he had to. Same is for the front bracing, as I wanted it to be bolt in, and would not allow him to cut into the dash or the interior door panels.
As for this broomstick test, I am pretty sure mine will not pass that test, but I am not sure. Keeping in mind I have the adjustable brackets for my Cobra seats on there. If you removed those brackets, it would drop the seat by about 1 inch, and that would definitely be enough space to meet the SCCA requirements.
As for the rearward hoops. If I recall correctly when we gutted the interior of the car for all the stereo and fiberglass work, those internal rollbars go all the way down to the frame of the car on the outside and do that bendy bit in the middle just like the cover looks. The guys who built the car built SCCA and NASA tube frame race cars and I am confident they know what they are doing when they set this up. I had a specific use in mind and they built the cage to my requirements.
If you have something specific in mind, give them a call and I am sure they can work something out for you. I am sure they are not the only people who can do this, but they were the best ones I could find willing to do it at the time.
Hope that was helpful.
--b
The roll cage can be built any way you want it. There are reasons the rearward connection does not go all the way back, I did not want him cutting into my customer fiberglass enclosures any more then he had to. Same is for the front bracing, as I wanted it to be bolt in, and would not allow him to cut into the dash or the interior door panels.
As for this broomstick test, I am pretty sure mine will not pass that test, but I am not sure. Keeping in mind I have the adjustable brackets for my Cobra seats on there. If you removed those brackets, it would drop the seat by about 1 inch, and that would definitely be enough space to meet the SCCA requirements.
As for the rearward hoops. If I recall correctly when we gutted the interior of the car for all the stereo and fiberglass work, those internal rollbars go all the way down to the frame of the car on the outside and do that bendy bit in the middle just like the cover looks. The guys who built the car built SCCA and NASA tube frame race cars and I am confident they know what they are doing when they set this up. I had a specific use in mind and they built the cage to my requirements.
If you have something specific in mind, give them a call and I am sure they can work something out for you. I am sure they are not the only people who can do this, but they were the best ones I could find willing to do it at the time.
Hope that was helpful.
--b
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Well, obvoiusly it was not particulary cheap and I was on a tight timeline.
If if recall correctly it was around $2,250. He did say that it was more expensive because I wanted it removable (except for the main hoop) and the powdercoating was like $300 I think.
I would say a normal cage would cost around $1,700 - $2,000 maybe, but this was a while ago, so best to just contact them. Could be more or less depending on the economy???
If if recall correctly it was around $2,250. He did say that it was more expensive because I wanted it removable (except for the main hoop) and the powdercoating was like $300 I think.
I would say a normal cage would cost around $1,700 - $2,000 maybe, but this was a while ago, so best to just contact them. Could be more or less depending on the economy???
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