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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #861  
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Originally Posted by Resolute
The M1 sample looks very good. Like Nederlander75 posted, most M1 0W-40 samples are shear stable as a heavy 30 weight oil, and therefore show up in a UOA as a high 12.xx cSt viscosity. My own sample with 3200 miles (albeit with 410 track miles) being a typical example. The P amount is low for M1 0W-40 as well. What is really weird, however; is how your M1 0W-40 has very little boron in it. While the other M1 0W-40 samples all show a healthy dose of borate esters, your sample is lacking. Same for Molybdenum, where your sample shows about a third of the average amount of moly used in the M1 0W-40 formula. The calcium level is also well outside of the standard deviation for the average amount contained in M1 0W-40. Either this is some new formula of M1 0W-40, or it is not M1 0W-40.

As far as wear is concerned, the values all look very good for a TT engine with 4k miles of use.

The high Si and Sodium are a concern. Neither are used as part of the additive package in M1 0W-40, so this is not normal levels for this oil. First, and most obvious, is double check the air filters and vacuum hoses for any leaks to allow these elements to be ingested into the crankcase. There are a number of other ways these elements could become elevated in an oil sample, but check the obvious solutions first and get another UOA during your next change to check trending.

Will
Interesting ... it looks like the boron, moly and calcium levels took a big turn around. I know for sure I have M1 0W-40 in it this time because I put it in myself. Now I wonder what the shop put in after they installed the TT. What are your thoughts regarding the huge boron swing?

The sodium came back down significantly but the Si is still the same. Would excess sealer cause this as the lab report says? If not, I may have to look around a little more to see where dirt is getting in.

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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #862  
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Yeah, THAT is M1 0W-40. The boron is primarily from borate esters used in the formula. All the specs are in line with M1 0W-40, and now you have a good comparison to evaluate what I said about your first sample looking a little "off" for being M1 0W-40. The viscosity is thin for a 40 weight, which is normal for this oil. It looms like a good run with low wear, normal viscosity, nothing out of the ordinary and nothing to worry about aside from the silicon. How many total miles on this engine?

Will

edit: this is a stock block engine with a TT kit, correct? How many miles total since the install?

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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:14 PM
  #863  
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Originally Posted by Resolute
Yeah, THAT is M1 0W-40. The boron is primarily from borate esters used in the formula. All the specs are in line with M1 0W-40, and now you have a good comparison to evaluate what I said about your first sample looking a little "off" for being M1 0W-40. The viscosity is thin for a 40 weight, which is normal for this oil. It looms like a good run with low wear, normal viscosity, nothing out of the ordinary and nothing to worry about aside from the silicon. How many total miles on this engine?

Will

edit: this is a stock block engine with a TT kit, correct? How many miles total since the install?
Yes, stock block HR with TT.
28138 total miles on car
10762 boosted miles

Are you thinking the excess Si could still be due to the sealants used when the TT was installed?
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 05:59 AM
  #864  
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Used Castrol Euro 0w-30, for ~7.5k and a little over 10mos. 4mos of that was storage too. Can't get the file to attach, but here is what it says:

Universal averages show typical wear levels for a Nissan 3.5L after about 4,200 miles on the oil.
This oil stayed in use well past that mark and with the exception of lead, all metals read around average.
The lead here could show excess wear in the bearings, but could also be from a particle streak. This is when a particle gets stuck in the Babbitt, spins around taking metal off, and then gets dislodged. We'll look for the lead to drop next time and if it doesn’t we'll let you know. The TBN read strong at 5.8, showing lots of active additive left. Try 9,000 miles next time.

ALUMINUM 3
CHROMIUM 1
IRON 18
COPPER 7
LEAD 13
TIN 0
MOLYBDENUM 1
NICKEL 0
MAGANESE 1
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 3
BORON 1
SILICON 13
SODIUM 15
CALCIUM 1064
MAGNESIUM 499
PHOSPHORUS 783
ZINC 1017
BARIUM 0

My TBN was 5.8, there was no water, and very little fuel (<0.5). Any thing I should do about that Lead? Just wait until the next analysis?
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 11:19 AM
  #865  
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Originally Posted by terrycs
Yes, stock block HR with TT.
28138 total miles on car
10762 boosted miles

Are you thinking the excess Si could still be due to the sealants used when the TT was installed?
No, I think if it were from the RTV and other sealers used, the ppm of Si would have tapered off after your first oil change. However, it seems odd that if it were dirt ingestion from poor filtration or a vacuum leak that other minerals (such as Al) wouldn't be higher. AFAIK, M1 0W-40 doesn't silicon as an additive, either. I would recommend you check for any leaks were dirt may be ingested into the engine, such as your air filter condition or vacuum ports.

Will
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 11:29 AM
  #866  
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Originally Posted by 03aeroZ
Used Castrol Euro 0w-30, for ~7.5k and a little over 10mos. 4mos of that was storage too. Can't get the file to attach, but here is what it says:

Universal averages show typical wear levels for a Nissan 3.5L after about 4,200 miles on the oil.
This oil stayed in use well past that mark and with the exception of lead, all metals read around average.
The lead here could show excess wear in the bearings, but could also be from a particle streak. This is when a particle gets stuck in the Babbitt, spins around taking metal off, and then gets dislodged. We'll look for the lead to drop next time and if it doesn’t we'll let you know. The TBN read strong at 5.8, showing lots of active additive left. Try 9,000 miles next time.

ALUMINUM 3
CHROMIUM 1
IRON 18
COPPER 7
LEAD 13
TIN 0
MOLYBDENUM 1
NICKEL 0
MAGANESE 1
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 3
BORON 1
SILICON 13
SODIUM 15
CALCIUM 1064
MAGNESIUM 499
PHOSPHORUS 783
ZINC 1017
BARIUM 0

My TBN was 5.8, there was no water, and very little fuel (<0.5). Any thing I should do about that Lead? Just wait until the next analysis?
I'm guessing there was no water in your sample because you drove the car or let it run for awhile before you did your oil change and collected a sample. If it sat for 4 months, then there most certainly moisture in the oil during that time. Some of your Fe wear is from moisture contamination in the crankcase. It's well within normal limits and the wear levels are low, considering.

As to the Pb, it is high. It might be a particle streak, and that would explain some of the copper wear as well, but I'm inclined to think there might have been some chemical leaching or corrosion taking place while the oil and water sat in your crankcase for four months, which put some Pb in the oil. As I recall, GC uses TMP esters as an additive, so hydrolysis could be to blame and perhaps the resulting carboxylic acid reacts with Pb, I don't know for sure. Really, it's not at any level to worry about and it might have been an anomaly such as a particle streak. If you get another UOA with GC and Pb's around the same level, then we'll know it's the oil and not an anomaly.

Will
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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^Thanks. So, should I change the oil before storage and then right after storage also? That would still put me at the same 2-3 changes a year. Could that be my problem...not changing the oil enough??
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:46 AM
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Can someone link me to the 5W30 European Castrol Formula? I've been searching, and on castrols website all it gives me is the 0W30 for a european formula designed for subfreezing temperatures... clearly not what i'm looking for.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 03aeroZ
^Thanks. So, should I change the oil before storage and then right after storage also? That would still put me at the same 2-3 changes a year. Could that be my problem...not changing the oil enough??
Any time the car sits for long periods of time, moisture will condense in the crankcase. One SAE study has found that in certain areas of high humidity, as much as 20% of the volume by weight of the oil in in the crankcase can be water in an engine which winters in storage.

There's not much to do except make sure you are not using an ester-base oil (due to the hydrolytically unstable nature of the base stock) drain before storage, and refill after storage.

Will

edit: also, be careful of your fuel when storing the car. Redline and some other companies make products which aid in removing water from the gas tank and lines.

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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mistanismo
Can someone link me to the 5W30 European Castrol Formula? I've been searching, and on castrols website all it gives me is the 0W30 for a european formula designed for subfreezing temperatures... clearly not what i'm looking for.
I think what you are looking for is the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 made in Germany. And what makes you think it's not what you are looking for? Especially being in Canada.

Will
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:49 PM
  #871  
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My latest UOA. More than one year on the oil, and more than 8k miles. UOA looks great. Low wear and no issues. The air and oil filters did a great job over the long haul. Oil thickened up, most likely oxidative. Interestingly enough, this is a trend in Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. Of the six samples I have, the longer the mileage on the oil the higher the viscosity, peaking out at 11.3 cSt with this sample at 8k miles. I would normally be a little concerned, but knowing about the additive package in PP alleviates any worry that varnish or sludge might be an issue. Frankly, I'm very impressed with this oil. I would drive the car for short trips less than 15 minutes to work, and then let it sit for two or three weeks at a time, and then take her out on a weekend and drive the **** out of her. I mean, I have less than 15k miles on my Kumho ASX tires and they need to be changed now from outside front camber wear on the fronts and just beat to hell out back from hard driving and track days. Also, over the course of 8k miles and almost a year and a half, I lost about 7/8 of a quart. I checked the dipstick just before draining it, and it was just a little above the "L" mark. That's perfectly reasonable in my book.

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Will

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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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Also, for those who might be interested, I updated the UOA comparison chart with all the new samples. Green means better than one standard deviation, red means worse. All results normalized to mileage and averages for the brand/weight.



Will

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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #873  
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Arrow Rotella T 5W/40 on Stock Block VQ35DE w/ JWT 700BB TT

I'll post a copy of the full print out this weekend. Ran Rotella T 5W/40 for 4000 miles on my Z. One full track (HPDE) event and 2-3 1/4 mile events. Normal Robert_K aggressive street driving otherwise.

Originally Posted by BlackStone Labs
Sodium decreased significantly so it appears this additive is still washing out of the engine's system. Oil use was 4,000 miles, which was 500 miles less than the last oil change interval. Iron, from steel parts, and lead, from bearings, both increased. If your car saw any time at the track, that might explain the higher metals. If not, then we can't tell you why those metals are high but they're worth watching. The oil's TBN was 2.9, showing some active additive. Suggest a ~2,000-mile oil change to help control metals getting into the oil.
Elements in PPM
Aluminum: 4
Chromium: 4
Iron: 27
Copper: 7
Lead: 17
Tin: 5
Molybdenum: 58
Nickel: 0
Manganese: 1
Silver: 0
Titanium: 0
Potassium: 2
Boron: 19
Silicon: 14
Sodium: 28
Calcium: 1037
Magnesium: 813
Phosphorus: 839
Zinc: 1040
Barium: 0

Properties
SUS Viscosity @ 210*F: 66.4
cSt Viscosity @ 100*C: 11.99
Flashpoint in *F: 365
Fuel %: TR
Antifreeze %: 0.0
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles%: 0.3
TBN: 2.9
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #874  
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Robert, I predict a built engine in your future.

Fact is you've got a fuel dilution issue. The report shows trace amounts, and that's after you driving it and burning it off. It shouldn't be trace amounts, it should be "0". The fuel will cause bearing wear and lower your flash point. In addition, your sodium level is high. BL is saying no coolant, but the sodium is coming from somewhere. Is your coolant low? If not, then it might be from some gasoline additives which contain sodium.

I think your stock block isn't going to wear so well for you as most others, no matter what oil you use. I'm not predicting catastrophic failure, but it's not the cherry that QuadCam's boosted stock block is by comparison. T-Syn is good stuff, and has done well by a lot of boosted VQ's. Maybe try M1 5W-40 (branded as turbodiesel oil, it's also SL certified for gasoline engines) and see if it helps any with controlling excess fuel from blow-by.

How are you guys, btw? Texas still treating you alright? Family is doing well up here, and we're looking forward to a nice and icy winter.

Will

edit: have you had the engine compression tested lately?

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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Resolute
Robert, I predict a built engine in your future.

Fact is you've got a fuel dilution issue. The report shows trace amounts, and that's after you driving it and burning it off. It shouldn't be trace amounts, it should be "0". The fuel will cause bearing wear and lower your flash point. In addition, your sodium level is high. BL is saying no coolant, but the sodium is coming from somewhere. Is your coolant low? If not, then it might be from some gasoline additives which contain sodium.

I think your stock block isn't going to wear so well for you as most others, no matter what oil you use. I'm not predicting catastrophic failure, but it's not the cherry that QuadCam's boosted stock block is by comparison. T-Syn is good stuff, and has done well by a lot of boosted VQ's. Maybe try M1 5W-40 (branded as turbodiesel oil, it's also SL certified for gasoline engines) and see if it helps any with controlling excess fuel from blow-by.

How are you guys, btw? Texas still treating you alright? Family is doing well up here, and we're looking forward to a nice and icy winter.

Will

edit: have you had the engine compression tested lately?
A build has been foreseen for a couple months now. It's the $$$ and me going to school that has push it back. I have nine weeks left and hopefully land a good job or headed back to Kuwait. I've never did a compression test on the Z. I'll look into it. THANKS!

Ada & I are doing pretty good. Again just waiting for me to graduate and see what's the next for us. Texas is good but it's always been home for me. No icy winters for us I'm sure. LOL Glad to hear Becky, family & yourself are doing good.

Thanks again for breaking these down for me. I'll get the full print out posted soon.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 12:14 PM
  #876  
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Originally Posted by Resolute
Also, for those who might be interested, I updated the UOA comparison chart with all the new samples. Green means better than one standard deviation, red means worse. All results normalized to mileage and averages for the brand/weight.



Will
thanks so much for compiling data like this. made it super simple to get the info I wanted.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Sorry I didn't get the report print-out up sooner. Should be attached! Also... The boost gauge shows what happens when you bust the wastegate line. Stock Block.

Originally Posted by Robert_K
I'll post a copy of the full print out this weekend. Ran Rotella T 5W/40 for 4000 miles on my Z. One full track (HPDE) event and 2-3 1/4 mile events. Normal Robert_K aggressive street driving otherwise.

Originally Posted by BlackStone Labs
Sodium decreased significantly so it appears this additive is still washing out of the engine's system. Oil use was 4,000 miles, which was 500 miles less than the last oil change interval. Iron, from steel parts, and lead, from bearings, both increased. If your car saw any time at the track, that might explain the higher metals. If not, then we can't tell you why those metals are high but they're worth watching. The oil's TBN was 2.9, showing some active additive. Suggest a ~2,000-mile oil change to help control metals getting into the oil.

Elements in PPM
Aluminum: 4
Chromium: 4
Iron: 27
Copper: 7
Lead: 17
Tin: 5
Molybdenum: 58
Nickel: 0
Manganese: 1
Silver: 0
Titanium: 0
Potassium: 2
Boron: 19
Silicon: 14
Sodium: 28
Calcium: 1037
Magnesium: 813
Phosphorus: 839
Zinc: 1040
Barium: 0

Properties
SUS Viscosity @ 210*F: 66.4
cSt Viscosity @ 100*C: 11.99
Flashpoint in *F: 365
Fuel %: TR
Antifreeze %: 0.0
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles%: 0.3
TBN: 2.9
Originally Posted by Resolute
Robert, I predict a built engine in your future.

Fact is you've got a fuel dilution issue. The report shows trace amounts, and that's after you driving it and burning it off. It shouldn't be trace amounts, it should be "0". The fuel will cause bearing wear and lower your flash point. In addition, your sodium level is high. BL is saying no coolant, but the sodium is coming from somewhere. Is your coolant low? If not, then it might be from some gasoline additives which contain sodium.

I think your stock block isn't going to wear so well for you as most others, no matter what oil you use. I'm not predicting catastrophic failure, but it's not the cherry that QuadCam's boosted stock block is by comparison. T-Syn is good stuff, and has done well by a lot of boosted VQ's. Maybe try M1 5W-40 (branded as turbodiesel oil, it's also SL certified for gasoline engines) and see if it helps any with controlling excess fuel from blow-by.

How are you guys, btw? Texas still treating you alright? Family is doing well up here, and we're looking forward to a nice and icy winter.

Will

edit: have you had the engine compression tested lately?
Originally Posted by Robert_K
A build has been foreseen for a couple months now. It's the $$$ and me going to school that has push it back. I have nine weeks left and hopefully land a good job or headed back to Kuwait. I've never did a compression test on the Z. I'll look into it. THANKS!

Ada & I are doing pretty good. Again just waiting for me to graduate and see what's the next for us. Texas is good but it's always been home for me. No icy winters for us I'm sure. LOL Glad to hear Becky, family & yourself are doing good.

Thanks again for breaking these down for me. I'll get the full print out posted soon.
Attached Thumbnails VQ Oil Analysis and Info-9-sept-09.jpg   VQ Oil Analysis and Info-msr-09-08.jpg  

Last edited by Robert_K; Sep 17, 2009 at 01:57 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 06:53 PM
  #878  
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Robert is your motor alright after that massive boost spike wow. I did that once and it scared the crap out of me.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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I just have a quick question. Anyone uses the German Castrol for their FI engine (other than mobile one 0W40). Mine is supercharged and I want to try something different than M1 0w40. Do you still recommend the German Castrol (0w30)?

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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 03:54 AM
  #880  
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Originally Posted by redman333
Robert is your motor alright after that massive boost spike wow. I did that once and it scared the crap out of me.
Made me a bit nervous cause it happened while racing at a local road course. Came it... let the engine cool... went back out... happened again and called it a day. Went to local shop and found broken boost line. As far as the engine... no problems have arised from it. (crossing fingers)
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