Maybe oil filter starting to clog up. Flow restricted can = higher than normal oil pressure.

 

i switched the oil filter also to a k and n performance filter, so i dunno, should i be worried anyways? i only got 10700 miles on it

 

Bearing wear was better for the mileage, piston/ring wear was worse. What's interesting is that you have no fuel dilution, flash point is still high, and no notable viscosity shear. The oil physically looks good, but your engine wear looks bad.

I had 400 miles of track use listed on my sample of M1 0W-40. in reality, that was my mileage after each event tallied up, which included runs to and from lunch, warm-up and familiarization laps, etc... For three days, about 15 laps a run, 4 runs a day, on a 2.2 mile circuit... 300 miles of actual hard track day driving is more realistic. My M1 0W-40 is somewhere back in this thread, but it looked a lot beter than this.

So, my first thoughts are:
1. Your built engine (like everyone else's built engine) isn't going to wear anything close to a stock one. I've said this all along which is why built engine UOA's aren't collected or added to the UOA comparison. I am a little surprised wear is this high, and I don't think the built engine is the primary reason, but certainly plays a role.

2. You must be putting more track miles on this car than the average Z owner. I'm curious, how many miles of this run are actually on the track? I know you are an instructor, and I'm glad to see you thoroughly enjoying your engine build like you had intended. It might be worth your while to try a good racing oil. It's tough to say if that will really make a difference, since your oil isn't being physically deteriorated right now. Usually, the purpose of a good ester racing oil is to provide protection where other oils might be shearing or oxidizing. Your current samples show no real sign of this, but perhaps there is more boundary lubrication taking place with the new build than we realize. I would consider Redline and see how that works out well for you. As often as you are changing it, Redline would be perfect for you if it limits your wear. 10W-40.

My $.02,

Will

 

Any comments are welcomed!
There must be something to pick on? Calcium seemed a little higher?

What do you think Resolute?

Note: Last report, I was using Royal Purple 5W-30 (9/24/08). After that, I switched to Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30. I had an oil change after that, and did not send in for analysis - as I wanted to have the Royal Purple clear out completely. This report, therefore, is untainted. (I hope...)

 

You've got PM...

 

There's nothing wrong with this report. It's now farther down the break-in path, and all wear metals look great. The oil is on the thin side for a 30 weight but should be shear stable and not get any worse.

Calcium is from the oil, not a byproduct of wear. Your TBN is still very good, meaning you can extend to at least 5K miles without a problem. No worries, looks like your VQ likes this oil.

 

Any one oil brand better than another on a stock 370Z as a daily driven car driven in typical stop-n-go traffic?

 

^ I am currently running PP 5w30 in DD for the 370Z. I have not ran an entire OCI yet, but will be sending it in for a UOA. btw: I have no valve clatter with this oil.

 

I have only driven 450 miles on my 370Z. The first oil change is on Nissan.
Who makes "PP" 5w30 weight oil?

 

PP=Pennzoil Platinum

 

Great thread Resolute! Learned a lot here!

Read through a lot of these threads and didn't find much on the new Amsoil Signature Series (SSO) 0w-30. Really, I'd like to stick with Amsoil but only if it's still a good brand for my engine. I've got the '05 VQ35 engine, live around the San Francisco area, drive it somewhat hard (high rev in the 4-5k's for short spurts but often) but don't track the car. If the Amsoil is still good for this engine, which one do you guys think will go well with where I live and my driving habits? The SSO (0w-30), the ASL's (whatever weight), the XLO (10w-40), the AFL (5w-40...the "European" one), or the AMO (10w-40)?

Also, you guys have a filter that goes well with this?

Your comments/suggestions are very much appreciated!

 

^ Thx

^^ ..."450 miles on"....
Personally I would have dumped the oil and changed it out several times during the initial break in period.

On a new engine:

at 25 miles - dump oil
at 500 miles - dump oil
at 1200-1500 - dump oil
now let it go the entire 3750 mi oil change interval (OCI) before changing the oil.

Thereafter depending on the type of oil change it during the full OCI.

 

Little Tribologist birdie mentioned to me not as good as their old TSO formula, but how much not as good I don't know. Those details why not disclosed to me.

Can't go wrong with Amsoil's EaO12 filter imo.

 

Hi I have a ST turbonetiks on stock block and after reading all pages i decided to switch from GC 0w30 (True synthetic) to shell rotella-T 5w40(synthetic). Is it ok to switch from True synthetic oil to only synthetic?. Or should i buy M1 0w40 which is true synthetic oil like GC. Thanx.

 

The only way to know for certain is with a UOA. Reviewing the database here, you'll see that Rotella-T has been a very kind to the VQ. But Resolute has made it clear that FI varients and built shortblocks have their own unique wear patterns.

 

So, I stored my car all winter, drove it a few times, and have put about 1000k on it so far. Total milage is 5k. Would this be an ok sample to send in? Thanks in advance.

 

From the charts that have been posted, it seems as if Castrol Syntec 5-30 full synthetic is one of the best oils for the Z?

I hope this is true. I went out and bought a tub and filled my car up with it......

 

Depending on how long ago you changed the oil, it sounds like 1K miles might not be enough. What kind of oil might also be a factor.

 

Look closer at this thread and the posts- European Castrol Syntec 5W-30 has the best results.

 

Here's an updated oil analysis on my V2 engine. So far, no consumption (I did add a little one time.. I think I misread the dipstick with fairly clean oil on it). Did a grueling 1500mile break-in, then no holds barred . Oil changes are frequent due to track days.