Zcarnut

Im curious if swapping out the OEM rear speakers with better ones would make much of a difference.No amps for now or anything like that. They are easy to get to and the OEM rears dont sound as good as the fronts to me (not that the fronts are exactly "highline" or anything).

What kind of difference can I expect? (IE is it worth it?)
What size/brand/models do you reccomend (that fit without modifying)?
$100 or less for a pair would be ideal.But if theres somthing thats a tad more and worlds better...talk to me!


Thanks in advance.

The Brickyard Rat

iTrader: (1)

It would be more important, imo, to replace the fronts.

alininger2001

iTrader: (1)

Ditto, You can geta set of alpine s components off of the net for around 100 bucks, Alpine says they perform good off of head unit power.

SteveG

iTrader: (2)

bump

stu46

They won't sound much better. To make a significant difference, you need to run an amp. Getting a nice clean amp will do more for sound quality than just installing a set of components and running it off of the HU.

Deceit

Yep.

Don't worry about the rears TOO much, the focus of your sound is going to be coming from the front of the car anyway.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

screw rear speakers, save your time and money.

either save for front speakers and an amp or just spend the money on a strip bar or something worth while

however...


one thing I have learned from this board, everyone has to make their own mistakes... so cheers

Zcarnut

I know its late,nbut thanks again for the responses.
My rears are basically inaudible when the fader is set to 0 so I figured some decent speakers back there could only help.
And from what I understand have alot more ohms (24-32?) than the fronts...Why is this?
Set the fader to rear and you get sound my $20 clock radio can beat.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

Rear speakers only cause inference between the front and rear speakers, ie frequency cancellation and funny frequency peaks.

The fronts are so much more important

ezee

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/104447-speaker-swap.html

ephilyawjr

Your $20 clock radio was only $20 because it also has a clock - Had it not had a clock you could have gotten it for about $10. Please note, any radio more than $5.00 sounds better than the BOSE. I currently (unfortunately) still have al BOSE, but I think I am going to go with MB Quarts ($200) in front 6 1/2 and a good amp (maybe clarion) and keep the sorry head unit. - I hope this helps me - Any ideas?

bixby

iTrader: (2)

Another "chime in". Don't waste your time with the rears. A good set of fronts is all you need... plus amp and sub of course

Zcarnut

I stopped by my local Best Buy inquiring as to what would work.They have some Kenwood 3 ways that Best Buy claims will fit front or rear.

"Kenwood 7" 3-Way Car Speakers with Injection-Molded Polypropylene Cones (Pair)

Model: KFC-1789IE

86 those uninspired factory speakers for a pair of killer triaxials that make the daily commute fun again. PEI film dome tweeters and midranges deliver outstanding highs, while the polypropylene woofer nails the lows.

7" silver pearl-mica injection-molded polypropylene woofer with rubber surround
1-13/16" PEI film balanced dome midrange
3/8" PEI film dome tweeter "


The installers worry was that he didnt know if the OEM deck was 4 ohm stable. He doesnt want to burn up the deck. Their only experience with Z's there so far is with Touring models with the Bose.No worries with the deck from that because a amp is a requirement due to the amplified speakers right?
From what I understand the rears are HIGH ohms stock.Not sure about the fronts.

Thanks again for all the input and the link!

stu46

yes, the rears are 32 ohm and the fronts are 8.

Zcarnut

Thanks...
So 8 and 32. Any worries then about installing some 4 ohm aftermarkets in there? Specifically the fronts?
I think you guys have convinced me that my money is better spent there.
A amp and sub for the rear will follow down the road.

And WHY would they have went with 32 ohm rears? Sounds like some stereo experts have responded that may know.

stu46

if you're gonna stick with the oem hu, you should be fine. not sure how well the hu will be able to handle the 4ohm load, but there's many people doing the same without any problem. you should be fine.

also, depending on which component set you go with, you may need an amp to power them. imo, it would be a wise choice to power the stock speakers with a good amp as oppose to throwing a good set and running it off of the oem hu. again, just my opinion.

Nazar

iTrader: (18)

Do yourself a Favor and get a Hi-Power Head Unit. This will make the most difference. If you can afford it get something with Hi-Pass Crossovers this way If you ever get a sub you can use the fronts on Hi-Pass. Don't waste the money on speakers yet unless you get the source unit taken care of.

bixby

iTrader: (2)

Not necessarily true. I kept my factory HU and the sound is awesome. I do agree that my sound WILL improve even more with an aftermarket HU though. Personally, I think the front speaks, amp and sub will give you the most bang for youir buck. Then again, what do I know

jerseydawg2000

If you absolutely must do something in the back, and want to spend about $100, here is what you do....

Cut the speaker wires to the rear speakers. Run the wires to an 8" powered subwoofer tube (check eBay, they range from $40 - 80) that should fit in the cabinet behind the driver's seat. Make sure the tube accepts speaker-level inputs. If it doesn't, you'll need an-line converted which can be had for $15. Make sure the tube you buy has controls for gain, bass boost, and low pass crossover.

You'll have to run a power cable from the battery and a ground cable to the chassis inside the cabinet ($20). Take a drive to your dealer and buy the cabinet door with the Bose emblem and speaker vent designed for the Touring model ($9). This will vent the cabinet and reduce rattles.

Voila! For about $100 you have given yourself the best bang for your buck. Nothing helps a system like a decent bass line.

Given a few more hundred dollars, you can really go to work.

Zcarnut

Thanks.Ive actually had thoughts on buying the Touring models pannel for the vent and doing that.Didnt realize there was so much room in there.
But first,im going to give these Kenwoods a shot up front and do the rear setup later.If it burns up the deck,the dealer will replace it no problem.Im a ex coworker there who left on good terms!

I prefer a "hidden" aftermarket system if you know what I mean.Nice OEM look and less attractive to theft.
I take it my pannel behind the seat just pops right off?