GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Alright..got about 2-2.5 coats in in the hatch, damn I'm beat hahahaha. How do you take apart the part that covers the hatch when its open? Also how do you take apart the plastic aroudn the strut bar?

Stuff is really easy to use, I'm sure its already made a subtle difference. Smells like crap oh man I got really high because of that damn stuff...I have to vent my windows today. Im going to finish the hatch completely tonight.

ravi

dannichols

Strut cover is a biaaaatch..make sure you keep track of the pieces. Everything basically snaps off, but beware of connectors and snaps breaking. Get your hands as close to the connection points as possible. I found a 1.5" plastic spreader with a notch cut in it works very well. I also bought a panel remover from Pep Boys but it didn't work as well. The pieces around the hatch top sort of interconnect with each other.

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Yeah..I might go to the dealer..I don't have any tools here so maybe they will help me =x

Hahah..would you recommend painting/edeading the panels also? e.g. not just the metal but the interior plastic panels of the hatch?

I went out side the car and played some music kind of loud with just the oem equipment, and the doors are making vibrational noises. Even though I'm doing a kickpanel install, I'm really going to have to dampen those damn doors.

Ravi

dannichols

I used Spectrum II but I would assume the composition is similar. Don't use it on plastic.. It would be like painting it on Teflon...will VERY easily come off. Aslo, beware of painting areas that have clear coat over paint..won't stick their very well either. If you do have to paint something smooth, I would recommend roughing it up with some 400 grit.

dannichols

Not sure how happy the dealer would be to help remove panels for you. Believe me it can be done by you, just take care when removing them. Especially around the Cubby area (rear speaker area). Fasteners just love to break there. Don't pry anything too hard..if it aint coming off with moderate force don't go beyond that or things will snap.

Some areas for me were easier to do with Real matting, and other areas were easier with liquid. I used about 50sqft of Dynamat Extreme and about 4 gals of liquid. I would recommend REAL matting on the outer door panel behind the speakers in addition to the factory dampener that is there. I would recommend matting on the interior of the door too instead of liquid. I did a combo of both, but if had to do again would prefer mat since the liquid had a tendancy to cover up screws, access points, and other things the dealer may need to get into in the future. Either way, be careful what you cover up on the inner door panel.

GQ, word of advice...liquids or Extreme matt are only going to stop vibrations..they dont do jack for road noise. If you're worried about panels vibrating, use a lightweight foam behind them. If you're worried about road noise, use a combination of dampener with layers of acoustic foam. I did this behind all panels in the car. The side panels behind the seats for instance had a lot of room behind them...I painted the metal behind them with dampener, then attached a dual layer of foam (one layer of open cell and a layer of closed cell (neoprene) to the back of the panel. I used 3M spray glue to adhere the foam to the panels.

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Yeah--your process is DEFINITELY the most thorough.

I'm doing it step by step--e.g. I'm not sure how happy I'll be until I hear it installed ya know? If anything, as long as the vibrations stop I'll be content.

I'm just so incredibly tired of talking on the cell phone WITH the windows up and not being able to hear a damn thing. I know thats road noise..but its something I might have to live with.

dannichols

The cell phone issue is exactly the reason I went to such extremes. And it's my indicator that there is a noticable difference now (I can hear). I just don't want to see you go through the same itterations of taking things apart, putting them back toghether, not being happy, taking them apart again..over and over. I wish I had been more thorough at the beginning is all I'm saying.

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Ok, I'm an idiot.

Hahah, I edeaded the entire hatch. You know the plastic trim that covers the wiper assembly? I deaded that part too, but I over shot my "paint on" by about an inch around that trim. So now I have this ugly yet symettrical smurf blue line that is exposed.

How do I get that off? I'm thinking of sanding it, and then maybe having them do spray on bedliner so it is not even noticeable.

ravi

dannichols

Ha Ha...I just used Extreme mat in that area.. Oh and I ende up removing the entire wiper assembly while it was apart..too much weight :-)

Anyway, if the product is like Spectrum that I used it will not stick well to anything painted and clear-coated. If the area you applied it to is painted you can probably peel it off with a platic spatula once it is dried well. Try pulling up a corner with your fingernail..Problem is once you start pulling it off it will probably tear off too much. If the peeling technique works, try marking off the zone you want to remove by scoring the material with a blade..then tearing it along the score line.

bjr

Ugh! I told you not to do that!
I did the same thing to my doors. Mine had only been drying for 2 hours so I took a bottle of rubbing alcohol and a plastic putty knife and my fingernails and worked it off. It took 3 hours and the clearcoat is a little dull but it will clean up. Try contacting eDesign right away for advice !

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Yeah haah its gonna be on there pretty good--stuff just isn't going good for me right now.

ravi