anyone had multiple setups in their z coupe?
right now i have my sub between the strut bar and rear speaker bar and its facing up. my next sub i just bought im going to have facing forward under the strut bar. either sub i keep will be that setup for now. ive seen some of yall that have corner mounted boxes and some that have rear firing. anyone tried different setups? just curious as to how they affect spl and sq if at all.
Originally Posted by 04silverzcoupe
right now i have my sub between the strut bar and rear speaker bar and its facing up. my next sub i just bought im going to have facing forward under the strut bar. either sub i keep will be that setup for now. ive seen some of yall that have corner mounted boxes and some that have rear firing. anyone tried different setups? just curious as to how they affect spl and sq if at all.
I also have a 12" in the tire well facing up at the rear window. Previously I had a WickedCAS fiberglass strut box with 10". I am much more happy with the box in the tire well, my belief is that the strut box isolated the hatch into two compatrments, trapping sound waves and causing a lot of rattle. There is only 1.5" of space above the strut for air to pass..When my 12" hits, the air movement blows through my air..and there are no rattles. Anyway, that's my 2 cents..and seemingly anyone's advice who has actually taken the time to build a tire-well box.
I agree with the above post. When air is restricted it causes more rattles. Believe me, I have 2 12's in my roadster trunk and the few areas there are for air to escape shake like there's no tomorrow.
I've rebuilt my Z trunk about 20 times now and the only place I've ever liked it was in the tire well facing up. Strut bar sub installs are horrible (especially facing backwards). the key to the 350Z coupe is to get the sub as far back as possible and firing upwards (and have a ton of damping in the hatch).
I don't remember ever reading a negative post regarding a tire-well install. Everyone who has done it seems satisfied. Only issues I guess are building the damn thing, and losing the spare-tire. Space is not really an issue as you can almost get the sub to sit flush with the trunk floor and a wire grill will protect. For me it's the only solution for bass.
thakns for the input everyone. one questoin on the tire well, does it have to be fiberglassed. i hvaent looked into this optoin too much but i am intrigued now. where my sub is currently it pounds. that damn speaker is a ton louder now that its right behind my head vs in the back of a truck.im pretty pleased with the soundit has and beileve me, for me to be pleased is pretty hard.
quick side question, for dannichols or anyone else to chime in, the kicks you have for your speakers do they get in the way of the clutch or do you have an automatic?
quick side question, for dannichols or anyone else to chime in, the kicks you have for your speakers do they get in the way of the clutch or do you have an automatic?
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For me, Fiberglass bottom and sides with an 5/8" MDF top was the only solution. I guess you could do it all in MDF but it would need to have a thicker bottom and thus you would either need to use a shallower sub driver or raise the sub out of the floor more with an MDF ring.
My sub is an MB Quart Reference. I only chose this sub because of my enclosure. You see there is not much room between the floor and the tire well bottom (like 6.5" stock). After you make the enclosure you will be lucky to have 6" of depth. The MBQ has a depth of only 5.6" but kicks very hard. My sub top sits flush with the floor carpet. If I take the grill off it is even with the floor..some people have used deeper subs but have ended up either having to use a large ring to extrude the sub higher or have had to build up the fake floor so the whole trunk area is higher.
If you want steps on making your own write to me.
About the tweets in the kick panel. They were a lot simpler than the sub enclosure. I simply drew a circle from the Tweeter mount template on the kick panel outside of the car. Then used a dremel to cut out the area, and stuck the tweeter in there with its screw-in mounting from behind. My tweeters are able to rotate and angle within the surface mount cups (this is something that you might want to check before buying a component set..BAs don't.. Diamond's do..some CDTs don't). I angled the tweets up and back. They don't get anywhere near the cluth, gas pedal or even the footrest. They are closer to the door jam actually.
My sub is an MB Quart Reference. I only chose this sub because of my enclosure. You see there is not much room between the floor and the tire well bottom (like 6.5" stock). After you make the enclosure you will be lucky to have 6" of depth. The MBQ has a depth of only 5.6" but kicks very hard. My sub top sits flush with the floor carpet. If I take the grill off it is even with the floor..some people have used deeper subs but have ended up either having to use a large ring to extrude the sub higher or have had to build up the fake floor so the whole trunk area is higher.
If you want steps on making your own write to me.
About the tweets in the kick panel. They were a lot simpler than the sub enclosure. I simply drew a circle from the Tweeter mount template on the kick panel outside of the car. Then used a dremel to cut out the area, and stuck the tweeter in there with its screw-in mounting from behind. My tweeters are able to rotate and angle within the surface mount cups (this is something that you might want to check before buying a component set..BAs don't.. Diamond's do..some CDTs don't). I angled the tweets up and back. They don't get anywhere near the cluth, gas pedal or even the footrest. They are closer to the door jam actually.
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