System Sounds Crappy
So this is going to be the epitome of a newb thread but I'm pulling my hair out with my stereo system the last 3 days and its time to stop denying my newbyness.
Here is what I got:
1 JVC KDDV5100 (DVD/CD player)
1 Infinity 10vq(400W RMS) in mike's classic under strut box
1 Sony Xplod 765W max (380W RMS bridged) amp
2 Alpine Coaxial door speakers installed with stock wiring(past owner)
The system sounded a lot better (albeit not good) with the stock non-bose system installed.
I get terrible distortion from the mids/highs at higher volumes and the bass while hitting pretty nicely is definately not tweaked and seems to have distortion especially at the higher volumes.
In final desperation I went to the audio shop and they said they would take a look at it for $80 tell me whats wrong and apply that cost to whatever it took to fix the problem (they say 160 approx for new clarion door speakers if the speakers are blown).
I'll probably do it after I go to the gym and get some anger out(I totally feel like a failure now), see what you guys say and then head over there since there open late and can fit me in before midnight.
Here is what I got:
1 JVC KDDV5100 (DVD/CD player)
1 Infinity 10vq(400W RMS) in mike's classic under strut box
1 Sony Xplod 765W max (380W RMS bridged) amp
2 Alpine Coaxial door speakers installed with stock wiring(past owner)
The system sounded a lot better (albeit not good) with the stock non-bose system installed.
I get terrible distortion from the mids/highs at higher volumes and the bass while hitting pretty nicely is definately not tweaked and seems to have distortion especially at the higher volumes.
In final desperation I went to the audio shop and they said they would take a look at it for $80 tell me whats wrong and apply that cost to whatever it took to fix the problem (they say 160 approx for new clarion door speakers if the speakers are blown).
I'll probably do it after I go to the gym and get some anger out(I totally feel like a failure now), see what you guys say and then head over there since there open late and can fit me in before midnight.
Ok, i am goen to assume that teh sony amp if for teh sub. Now the thing is that at high volume, the amp on the head unit cant take it and may start to clip, may be where your idstortion is coming from. Remidy, get an amp for the door/rear deck. Another possiblity, blown speaker, fix, new ones. last and probly the most overlooked is teh wiring. Use quality wire, it might cost a few extra bucks, but its worth it. Twisted wire the the best for noice canceling, but if you cant get your hands on twisted [B]SPEAKER WIRE[B], you can take a vice or a friend or something to hold teh wire on one end, put the other end in a drill and let 'er rip. Make sure its not "looping" itself, just twisted.
So I went to the shop last night at 7 - we worked out a Final price of $400 for a new amp and rack install behind the driver seat that same night.
A tech and myself spent all night until now (6AM) on the thing but it looks awesome. Definately worth the money to have it done 100% correctly - plus got my future radar detector hard wiring done as well for free.
All in all these guys are true to their word (we'll do it tonight was not a joke).
So its much more smiles this morning even though I have had no sleep.
A tech and myself spent all night until now (6AM) on the thing but it looks awesome. Definately worth the money to have it done 100% correctly - plus got my future radar detector hard wiring done as well for free.
All in all these guys are true to their word (we'll do it tonight was not a joke).
So its much more smiles this morning even though I have had no sleep.
Originally Posted by meshugineh
So I went to the shop last night at 7 - we worked out a Final price of $400 for a new amp and rack install behind the driver seat that same night.
A tech and myself spent all night until now (6AM) on the thing but it looks awesome. Definately worth the money to have it done 100% correctly - plus got my future radar detector hard wiring done as well for free.
All in all these guys are true to their word (we'll do it tonight was not a joke).
So its much more smiles this morning even though I have had no sleep.
A tech and myself spent all night until now (6AM) on the thing but it looks awesome. Definately worth the money to have it done 100% correctly - plus got my future radar detector hard wiring done as well for free.
All in all these guys are true to their word (we'll do it tonight was not a joke).
So its much more smiles this morning even though I have had no sleep.
pics?
Congrats on fixing your system with your dedicated Installer's all-nighter!
I'm routing my new system's amp wires today. So I'm very curious
if your Installer determined what the sound problems were?
Given your stated at power distortion, it could have been a
combination of wire crosstalk and bad ground issues.
Taping/zipping all the head unit wires to be neat and clean,
might pooch your sound quality with wire crosstalk.
The $15 wiring harness' thin gauge wires are not shielded.
I separated the (rear) power speakers wires from the bundle,
and am carefully routing the #4 sub power line away from
the speaker lines under the carpet.
I saw some DIY installs running a #4 ground from the
battery to the sub. Initially I followed this... then I read the
amps' manuals. %^)
Instead of running a ground through the firewall I
doubled the battery ground with another 8" #4 stub to one
of the stock ground bolts. Short chassis ground wires <12" to
your capacitor/amps avoids ground loop ringing.
I debated using the stock sub cubby for the amps, but I was
concerned about potential thermal clipping issues during summer.
Fortunately I found compact heatsink cooled high dba (signal/noise)
great fidelity affordable amps that fit under the Z seats from
www.woofersetc.com. Those LA guys rock the house! They
were very professional and delivered my system in two days!
The MVP install tool has been a high power magnet on a 3' flex stick.
It "found" the ground bolt dropped under the power black box.
No amount of dynamatting will fix a loose bolt rattle.
I'm routing my new system's amp wires today. So I'm very curious
if your Installer determined what the sound problems were?
Given your stated at power distortion, it could have been a
combination of wire crosstalk and bad ground issues.
Taping/zipping all the head unit wires to be neat and clean,
might pooch your sound quality with wire crosstalk.
The $15 wiring harness' thin gauge wires are not shielded.
I separated the (rear) power speakers wires from the bundle,
and am carefully routing the #4 sub power line away from
the speaker lines under the carpet.
I saw some DIY installs running a #4 ground from the
battery to the sub. Initially I followed this... then I read the
amps' manuals. %^)
Instead of running a ground through the firewall I
doubled the battery ground with another 8" #4 stub to one
of the stock ground bolts. Short chassis ground wires <12" to
your capacitor/amps avoids ground loop ringing.
I debated using the stock sub cubby for the amps, but I was
concerned about potential thermal clipping issues during summer.
Fortunately I found compact heatsink cooled high dba (signal/noise)
great fidelity affordable amps that fit under the Z seats from
www.woofersetc.com. Those LA guys rock the house! They
were very professional and delivered my system in two days!
The MVP install tool has been a high power magnet on a 3' flex stick.
It "found" the ground bolt dropped under the power black box.
No amount of dynamatting will fix a loose bolt rattle.
As soon as its all done, tuned and ready to rock the house (still have to connect some wires to my amp) I will show pics for sure.
Until then I'm leaving work on time for once and getting some rest.
Until then I'm leaving work on time for once and getting some rest.
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