Q. about a Capacitor
The battery is a glorified capacitor. Batteries and capacitors both try to keep the voltage from changing as the load is changed, i.e. the current from the battery changes. The difference is that the battery can generate it's own source of electrons (current) but the capacitor does not. (There are other differences but we don't need to get into them for this discussion)
If you had a perfect battery and the wires from the battery to the amplifier were perfect there would be no need for the capacitor.
The first problem is the battery. The perfect battery would have the same terminal voltage at any load or perfect regulation. As a real battery supplies more current to the load the voltage goes down. This is due to the internal resistance of the battery.
Also, perfect wires from the battery to the amplifier would not have a voltage drop accross them when there is a current in them.
The battery and the wires conspire to lower the voltage at the amplifier. This is mainly a problem only when the sound power peaks. Most of the sound power is in the lower frequencies, i.e, the woofers and sub woofers. So what happens is when the music (or rap) has a peak the voltage supply dips and if it dips too low the the music can't be reproduced accurately. 12 volts doesn't have a lot of room to play with.
The average power to the amplifier is usually much lower than the peak. If your battery is in reasonably good shape the wires to the amplifier is the first consideration. You have three choices to control the voltage drop during the peaks: 1) Use big and short enough wires 2) Use wires that can handle the average current and use a big capacitor 3) Use a compromise of bigger wires and a smaller capacitor.
The capacitor needs to be as close to the amplifier as possible/practical to minimize the resistance from the cap to the amp. The cap is a local source of electrons that are available without the voltage dropping as much because there is less resistance between the source and the amplifier. The cap is recharged from the battery constantly. If you are outputting a high average power with few peaks (not likely) don't even bother with the capacitor because it won't help at all.
Unless you know for sure that you need a cap I would first use the largest wire that allows you to run the wires and fits the lugs or connectors on both ends. Then if you think that the peaks don't have the punch that should have add a cap and see if it improves. If you can start with a small one (cheaper) and work your way up. Keep in mind that you may be better off using two or more smaller caps in parallel rather than one large cap. This is because as you use more caps in parallel the total ESR (equivalent series resistance or internal resistance) is lowered making the combined capacitors possibly better than a single cap.
K
If you had a perfect battery and the wires from the battery to the amplifier were perfect there would be no need for the capacitor.
The first problem is the battery. The perfect battery would have the same terminal voltage at any load or perfect regulation. As a real battery supplies more current to the load the voltage goes down. This is due to the internal resistance of the battery.
Also, perfect wires from the battery to the amplifier would not have a voltage drop accross them when there is a current in them.
The battery and the wires conspire to lower the voltage at the amplifier. This is mainly a problem only when the sound power peaks. Most of the sound power is in the lower frequencies, i.e, the woofers and sub woofers. So what happens is when the music (or rap) has a peak the voltage supply dips and if it dips too low the the music can't be reproduced accurately. 12 volts doesn't have a lot of room to play with.
The average power to the amplifier is usually much lower than the peak. If your battery is in reasonably good shape the wires to the amplifier is the first consideration. You have three choices to control the voltage drop during the peaks: 1) Use big and short enough wires 2) Use wires that can handle the average current and use a big capacitor 3) Use a compromise of bigger wires and a smaller capacitor.
The capacitor needs to be as close to the amplifier as possible/practical to minimize the resistance from the cap to the amp. The cap is a local source of electrons that are available without the voltage dropping as much because there is less resistance between the source and the amplifier. The cap is recharged from the battery constantly. If you are outputting a high average power with few peaks (not likely) don't even bother with the capacitor because it won't help at all.
Unless you know for sure that you need a cap I would first use the largest wire that allows you to run the wires and fits the lugs or connectors on both ends. Then if you think that the peaks don't have the punch that should have add a cap and see if it improves. If you can start with a small one (cheaper) and work your way up. Keep in mind that you may be better off using two or more smaller caps in parallel rather than one large cap. This is because as you use more caps in parallel the total ESR (equivalent series resistance or internal resistance) is lowered making the combined capacitors possibly better than a single cap.
K
Copper, look around ebay and find a 1-farad cap. They are running for about $60 shipped. I got an Audiobahn 1-Farad Digital Cap with a built in distribution block and a 4-gauge amp wiring kit package for $85 shipped. Look at it this way, $60-$85 now or $$$$ later when your alternator goes out.....If you are noticing differences in the volts and rpm's, then i would def at least get the 1-Farad, it might be more than you need but the price difference is minimal on ebay and it always leaves room for upgrades....Also with the 500/1, run at least 4-gauge cables.....
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