I need ur opinion on my system probs
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From: Barackville
Hey guys --Help me if u can --- My system: Pioneer DEH-P670MP premier, All speakers are JL audio---6in in the doors 5s behind the seats--tweeters---Had one bass but now going with 2 --The one I had and intend to mate to another is JL 10W1v2.8----My amp is JL audio 500/5. THATS IT --Nothing else cept new under strut 2/10 box---
First I blow the rt speaker after 2 weeks It was replaced---Now the left is blown---Then a week ago I smell elec . over heat and look back and see my amps smoking --- Not sure weather I want to take it back to these people { a shop thats been around for a long time) I paid 2000.00 for this system ---I was stupid and just should have done it myself!!!! Thanks
First I blow the rt speaker after 2 weeks It was replaced---Now the left is blown---Then a week ago I smell elec . over heat and look back and see my amps smoking --- Not sure weather I want to take it back to these people { a shop thats been around for a long time) I paid 2000.00 for this system ---I was stupid and just should have done it myself!!!! Thanks
Sounds like you're blowing your speakers with distortion.
When I was in the business I saw more cheap @ss 40 watt POS amplifers blow quality speakers rated at 100 watts each. Yet with my 250 watt Zappo I could smoke my 150 watt each speakers.
Normally an amplifier produces music (or what passes for it now) which is made up of sine waves that the speaker turns into movement which we hear as sound. When you over drive an amplifier it is pushed into clipping - called that because if you look at the wave form on an oscilloscope you'd see that the tops and bottoms of the waveform are no longer pretty round sine waves but are instead flat at the tops and the bottoms. These sine waves become more like square waves - they equal just huge amounts of distortion like fingers on a chalk board - the square waves produce harmonics of the fundamental wave meaning that the tweeters or their crossover gets swamped with power that they should get. The woofers rather than move in and out to disapate the sound energy as smooth motion are jerked in and out pausing ever so slightly at the top and bottom of each wave - rather than disapating the peak voltages as motion they disapate that energy as heat ... melting the voice coils or at least the glue that holds them to the cones.
Typically someone hasn't matched the headend to the amplifier. JL actually puts out a simple and excellent guide on how to adjust the inputs to their amps using a volt meter which any shop on the planet should have. Over driving the amplifiers for a long time at a high level without active cooling could over heat them too.
When I was in the business I saw more cheap @ss 40 watt POS amplifers blow quality speakers rated at 100 watts each. Yet with my 250 watt Zappo I could smoke my 150 watt each speakers.
Normally an amplifier produces music (or what passes for it now) which is made up of sine waves that the speaker turns into movement which we hear as sound. When you over drive an amplifier it is pushed into clipping - called that because if you look at the wave form on an oscilloscope you'd see that the tops and bottoms of the waveform are no longer pretty round sine waves but are instead flat at the tops and the bottoms. These sine waves become more like square waves - they equal just huge amounts of distortion like fingers on a chalk board - the square waves produce harmonics of the fundamental wave meaning that the tweeters or their crossover gets swamped with power that they should get. The woofers rather than move in and out to disapate the sound energy as smooth motion are jerked in and out pausing ever so slightly at the top and bottom of each wave - rather than disapating the peak voltages as motion they disapate that energy as heat ... melting the voice coils or at least the glue that holds them to the cones.
Typically someone hasn't matched the headend to the amplifier. JL actually puts out a simple and excellent guide on how to adjust the inputs to their amps using a volt meter which any shop on the planet should have. Over driving the amplifiers for a long time at a high level without active cooling could over heat them too.
It's likely either your input sensitivity is TOTALLY set wrong on the amp or you are grossly underpowering them, or your HU is introducing distortion at such a level that it's being amplified and crucifying the speakers.
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From: Barackville
Excellent replys ---Keep them comeing!! This is another of those situations that its best in my case to have just crammed and designed my own system ---First thing I have to do is get (hopefilly) the warranty work done on the amp and start from there. I have a shop and do Z Hi-Perf. work and it was just easier to have the "Pros" do the audio----I f**ked up. How serious do u think the amp damage is?????------ Many thanx again !!!!!!!!
Depends on what got smoked but whatever it is it likely needs to go back to the factory for repair as not many shops keep individual circuit components on hand and often lack the specialized equipment and training to work on SMT circuit boards.
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From: Barackville
Thanks Paul --Kinda figured--- have the reciept ---I bought from "authorized" dealer 3/3/2005 and have to sent it through them. Do I need anything in addition to what I have ? Capacitors,,, etc ---Differant ,,,Maybe better HU ? and will this system be alright if I get a clone of the one bass and run the 2 ????--- Is there room for improvment ? Info as to what I have is above ---Thanx so much !!!!!!
sounds like your playing at really high volumes for extended periods of time. voice coils burn when heat builds up, the open or shorted coil could have burned the amp. good analogy playing the radio hard for extended periods of time is like driving in first gear at 6000 rpm's for a couple of miles, it just isn't gonna last too long.
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two things come to mind, ones already mentioned, that if say, if you have he bass boost cranked up on the HU, and the amp, and have the gains set wrong, it could blow it up...
also, make sure your front speaker channels are High passed correctly, depending on which jl speaker you have, i would say high pass them from at least 80hz up...if you are sending a 6.5" speaker full range signal and turning it up, they will blow in no time...
also, it could be due to poor installation...on the amp part, wires touching each other, wrong impedance somehow, etc etc
also, make sure your front speaker channels are High passed correctly, depending on which jl speaker you have, i would say high pass them from at least 80hz up...if you are sending a 6.5" speaker full range signal and turning it up, they will blow in no time...
also, it could be due to poor installation...on the amp part, wires touching each other, wrong impedance somehow, etc etc
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From: Barackville
Thanks for the input clk --- But have to keep in mind Im 53 and although i listen to anything from Hard Rock to Rap I dont push a stereo or a motor past its limitations ( well not often ) But iv always owned cars,stereos,boats, tools,etc that will take being driven beyond normal to avoid situations like this --Nother words --Margin for error. I believe that this JL AUDIO 500/5 was incorrectly tuned in. from the start and after eating speakers decided to eat itself. Plz dont think Im comeing cross like a smarta** .... Im just trying to learn some things bout audio and ALL input is greatly appreciated. Thx CL
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From: Barackville
Thanx PSI 16 ---- We are as I was stating when I got ur response narrowing it down to poor initial set up and as is the case here as others ---Why take it back and b*tch --If they screwed it up once they'll do it again, If this is verified I can take care of ramifications. Im shootin up to Austin next week for alignment and will pick some local Brains.and have if I can the warranty/repair work on the amp sent to JBL through them. Thanx again everyone and ---Hell keep those responses comeing!!!!!!!!!
Bob ----New Berlin Garage
Bob ----New Berlin Garage
ok try making sure you have the high pass on the amp turned on, and set it above 80hz. do this on channels 1-4. do the sub the opposite turn low pass on and 80hz or less. if you have a multimeter check the impedance at the amp with the amp off needs to be 4 ohm. if i'm not mistaken that amp is about 150 at 4 ohms on the front channels, so that's a good bit.
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