Linking the factory NAV to an aftermarket stereo
#1
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Linking the factory NAV to an aftermarket stereo
I did alot of investigation into this, as I recently revamped my entire Bose system. If you have the Touring system with nav, you will lose the voice navigation portion, unless you do some conversion on the output signals and link it to your aftermarket stereo.
When I first started working on this, I thought, no big deal, since most higher-end head units have a muting circuit. This muting line is meant for cell phones. I figured as long as there was a muting line there, it would work. I found out that the output from the factory NAV goes high (to 7.5-8 volts) during the voice output. Most muting circuits are the opposite, and trigger when hte muting line is grounded. THe big problem was this...the threshold voltage output by the nav system is too low to trigger a 12v relay. I also tried a 9v relay without any luck. So, I had to resort to my EE background to get this working properly.
Here is what I did:
I used a high current NPN Bipolar transistor to do the switching. Essentially, when the transistor is energized by the output of the nav system (mute on), the transistor supplies ground to the 12v relay, which supplies ground to the muting line of my Pioneer Premier head unit. This works flawlessly, and is relatively simple to hook up. I can proviude schematics if anyone needs them, but its pretty basic stuff. I was happy to utilize some of my background too...LOL!
I also found that the outputs of the nav system that drive the speaker are fairly low level. However, if you crank them up to 1 or 2 lines from the max volume, they will drive a 4 ohm midrange speaker--3.5" or 4 inch speaker loud enough to be audible when the stereo is muted. The proper means would be to put a tiny 20 watt amp (or powered center channel speaker in the headliner or under the seat) on the output lines of the nav after a line out convertor, but I thought this was a little too much work for the result. So, I installed an old Boston Pro 4" midrange under my drivers seat to handle the nav audio. The BA PRo 4 is a little overkill for the nav audio, but its all I had, and it waasn't being used, so now it is! My nav system works exactly as it did before, with only the addition of a small circuit and 12v relay. The cost was about $5 in parts, well worth it to have it working like it should...
Now that all parts of my Blose stereo are gone...I am happier more and more with the Z everyday !
When I first started working on this, I thought, no big deal, since most higher-end head units have a muting circuit. This muting line is meant for cell phones. I figured as long as there was a muting line there, it would work. I found out that the output from the factory NAV goes high (to 7.5-8 volts) during the voice output. Most muting circuits are the opposite, and trigger when hte muting line is grounded. THe big problem was this...the threshold voltage output by the nav system is too low to trigger a 12v relay. I also tried a 9v relay without any luck. So, I had to resort to my EE background to get this working properly.
Here is what I did:
I used a high current NPN Bipolar transistor to do the switching. Essentially, when the transistor is energized by the output of the nav system (mute on), the transistor supplies ground to the 12v relay, which supplies ground to the muting line of my Pioneer Premier head unit. This works flawlessly, and is relatively simple to hook up. I can proviude schematics if anyone needs them, but its pretty basic stuff. I was happy to utilize some of my background too...LOL!
I also found that the outputs of the nav system that drive the speaker are fairly low level. However, if you crank them up to 1 or 2 lines from the max volume, they will drive a 4 ohm midrange speaker--3.5" or 4 inch speaker loud enough to be audible when the stereo is muted. The proper means would be to put a tiny 20 watt amp (or powered center channel speaker in the headliner or under the seat) on the output lines of the nav after a line out convertor, but I thought this was a little too much work for the result. So, I installed an old Boston Pro 4" midrange under my drivers seat to handle the nav audio. The BA PRo 4 is a little overkill for the nav audio, but its all I had, and it waasn't being used, so now it is! My nav system works exactly as it did before, with only the addition of a small circuit and 12v relay. The cost was about $5 in parts, well worth it to have it working like it should...
Now that all parts of my Blose stereo are gone...I am happier more and more with the Z everyday !
#4
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Just in time.
My new stereo is here in the boxes (listed in the sig. file below). Tuesday morning it will be installed by a local audio shop. We didn't know how we would handle the Nav. speaker issue. Now we do.
1. Why add an additional speaker? Can't you continue to use the stock?
2. How do we add these new pieces (NPN Bipolar transistor etc.)?
3. Any chance of some pictures before Tuesday?
My new stereo is here in the boxes (listed in the sig. file below). Tuesday morning it will be installed by a local audio shop. We didn't know how we would handle the Nav. speaker issue. Now we do.
1. Why add an additional speaker? Can't you continue to use the stock?
2. How do we add these new pieces (NPN Bipolar transistor etc.)?
3. Any chance of some pictures before Tuesday?
#5
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Thread Starter
Guys...
There is another thread similar to this one with diagrams, that supposedly works jsut as well, but to me, seems a little easier. I opted for this approach because of the simple fact that the voltage levels were not the same as what the factory service manual specified. According to it, the levels were suppsoed to be 6volts or less, which meant that you could use a 6v relay. Instead, I found the signal to be clsoe to 8 volts, so opted for the above solution instead.
Anyways, here is the differnet, easier approach concerning hte same issue...
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/20754-nav-audio-with-aftermarket-hu.html
Since there may have been some confusion, I reposted anotehr thread which ahd more detailed instructions concerning the hookup of my circuit, that thread is here:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=18919
AS far as pictures go, I do not have any. The thread above details the circuit, and I am not sure any picture of these connections would even help. I tried to detail the schematic as best as I could in that thread, so hopefully it will help you guys out. The cost of this circuit is less than $5 and the parts are avaialble at Radio Shack.
The only reason for adding the extra speaker was so that I could have a dedicated nav audio speaker, no other reason. There is no easy way to have the entire audio system, play the nav voice once you upgrade to a different head unit. That is why I opted for the single add-on speaker. I suppose you could run wiring to one factory speaker location and play the nav audio through it, but I decided to dedicate a seperate speaker instead...I guess it was jsut my choice, and no other reason...
I hope this helps...
There is another thread similar to this one with diagrams, that supposedly works jsut as well, but to me, seems a little easier. I opted for this approach because of the simple fact that the voltage levels were not the same as what the factory service manual specified. According to it, the levels were suppsoed to be 6volts or less, which meant that you could use a 6v relay. Instead, I found the signal to be clsoe to 8 volts, so opted for the above solution instead.
Anyways, here is the differnet, easier approach concerning hte same issue...
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/20754-nav-audio-with-aftermarket-hu.html
Since there may have been some confusion, I reposted anotehr thread which ahd more detailed instructions concerning the hookup of my circuit, that thread is here:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=18919
AS far as pictures go, I do not have any. The thread above details the circuit, and I am not sure any picture of these connections would even help. I tried to detail the schematic as best as I could in that thread, so hopefully it will help you guys out. The cost of this circuit is less than $5 and the parts are avaialble at Radio Shack.
The only reason for adding the extra speaker was so that I could have a dedicated nav audio speaker, no other reason. There is no easy way to have the entire audio system, play the nav voice once you upgrade to a different head unit. That is why I opted for the single add-on speaker. I suppose you could run wiring to one factory speaker location and play the nav audio through it, but I decided to dedicate a seperate speaker instead...I guess it was jsut my choice, and no other reason...
I hope this helps...
#6
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Great thread! I love the fact that I have no idea what you are talking about (the hard parts) but understand the basic fuction. Example. You go to Las Vegas and put coins in the machine. You don't know how to fix it, but you know how to play. Same situation with me. I have no understanding on how to install, just know how to play with the nav./stereo.
Also, want to give props for the speaker idea. I am definitely going to bring it up to the installer. Thanks
Also, want to give props for the speaker idea. I am definitely going to bring it up to the installer. Thanks
#7
Digging this back up because I have some additional information. My NAV asserts a full 12volts, not the 7.5 to 8 volts mentioned here. I found this out after it wouldn't trigger either a 5v or 9v relay. I suppose I should have tested the voltage first, but I have had pretty good luck so far taking all of these suggestions as gospel up front.
Mine is an 03, VIN 11k or so, so it's a pretty early production. At any rate, just thought others would like to know. I simply took the NAV mute assertion line, attached it to a 12v relay coil and attached the other side of the coil to the same ground I was using for the stereo. Works great with no fancy mucking about with addidional electronics.
Mine is an 03, VIN 11k or so, so it's a pretty early production. At any rate, just thought others would like to know. I simply took the NAV mute assertion line, attached it to a 12v relay coil and attached the other side of the coil to the same ground I was using for the stereo. Works great with no fancy mucking about with addidional electronics.
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#8
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I read this and I know its old. But I just took my car into the shop to do some work on the head unit and now they can figure out what wires provide the voice. I gave em the diagram....BUT I need to know what colors they are and where they are located...thye said they couldnt find a 32 pin wireharnass back there behind the radio...
SO PLEASE anyone that has had this done can you take a pic of where those wires are at and what colors so they can get the volt right.
The got the diagrams from this site but seem to cant find the wires to tap into...Already paid em so I cant go anywhere else...
Thanks ahead of time!
SO PLEASE anyone that has had this done can you take a pic of where those wires are at and what colors so they can get the volt right.
The got the diagrams from this site but seem to cant find the wires to tap into...Already paid em so I cant go anywhere else...
Thanks ahead of time!
#9
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Thread Starter
I-A...
I posted all wire colors in this more detailed thread (link is above too)... all of these wires were located behind the factory Touring 350Z Bose head unit.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=18919
I hope this helps...
By the way, what ever happened to those fun pics I saw of you and the 2 women having fun in your Z ??? HAHA
I posted all wire colors in this more detailed thread (link is above too)... all of these wires were located behind the factory Touring 350Z Bose head unit.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=18919
I hope this helps...
By the way, what ever happened to those fun pics I saw of you and the 2 women having fun in your Z ??? HAHA
#12
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Originally Posted by ritzthekracker
hey guys just wondering if these instructions are good for the 2006 touring model?
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