Anyone think it would be a bad idea to just tap into the 12v source behind the seats for my amp power wire? or would this over load it and melt the wires?

 

DO NOT DO THIS.

That is only good for 5amps TOPS. It may not melt the wires, but will pop the fuse. (Adding a larger fuse WILL MELT THE WIRES and Possibly cause a FIRE.)

Run a proper guage wire from the battery back and ground it well.

 

You will light up that wire like a roman candle or you will damage your amp. Here use this:

http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/firewall/

 

Run the wire to the battery, it's that easy.

There's a even grommet to pull the wire through, located directly behind the battery.

 

I once worked for an electronics store, these two guys decided that they didn't need no fancy $30 amp kit with 4ga Wire for their Punch 400 Amp..

They used lamp cord with no fuse instead.

To top it off they ran it around the fender, through the front window and over the front and rear seats to "Test everything out".

Within Seconds it had burnt the jacket off the lamp cord and fried the upholstry on all of the seats, scarred the paint on the fender and finally burnt itself out.

All to save $30..

 

lmfao....alright thanks guys; i dont think i would have tried it anyway..just trying to avoid taking my car apart again. i dont mind the time and effort, i just hate taking apart everything in fear that it wont go back correctly or I will snap something.

they ran it around the fender (outside the car?????????????) wtf

 

And make sure you get the fuse kit and mount it as close as you can to the battery terminal as the cable between the battery post and the fuse is unprotected. The Z has an extra 10mm bolt ready and waiting at the (+) 12V terminal for amplifier wires so you don't need an adapter but you do need the major fuse up there.

There's very little work running the cable as it just snakes along the edge of the interior. I ran mine though the major gasket behind the battery and down the passenger's side.

 

it takes 15 minutes to run the amp wire...

it took me longer to put the amp in on the floor under the seats...

 

From what I can tell by looking at the schematic, that extra bolt on the fusible link assembly (that hangs off the battery + terminal) is fused with a 120-amp fusible link. That same bus powers the 100- and 80-amp fusible links on the right side. I'm not sure hooking up amps here is a good idea, because if your amps (combined with the other stuff on that bus) draw enough amperage, you will blow that 120-amp fusible link and lose half the car's electrical system.

Have you tried it without any problems?

The other 10mm terminal where the starter is attached is straight to the battery terminal with no fuses. It might be better to just attach your amp power there... ?

Here is the schematic. The red circle shows where the spare 10mm bolt is attached in the assembly:

 

The only thing that I used behind the seats was the wire from the lighter for the pre amp signal.

 

Speaking of which, the rubber grommet was a pain in the ***. That was the hardest part of my install. I kept digging away at that thing trying to get a slit to feed the wire through. I was hoping that I wouldnt cut any of the other wires running through there. Thats some thick rubber!!

 

i see this thread is still going...well i did my install a couple weeks ago and it was pretty damn easy, sounds great. the only bad part is that panel on the side of the car behind the passenger seat did not want to snap back in very good...a few bloody nuckles but im happy

 

If you rub some soap on the cable, it'll slide through better. I managed to slip some "0" gauge cable through there.

 

Yep .. I managed 2/0 with some lube

then again .. I am used to having to place my oversized "wire" into smaller female openings

 

 

anyone have any water leaking though that grommet after putting a power wire through it? anyone using a sealant?