In Car PC Building your own!! Links!
03-12-2003, 08:55 PM
#82
Originally posted by alphared
oh, Hdd is 40gig, 5600. about 140 bux (fastest speed i can find)
DVD are both 6X and both around 40 bux each.
oh, Hdd is 40gig, 5600. about 140 bux (fastest speed i can find)
DVD are both 6X and both around 40 bux each.
I went with a 4200, Im a bit concerned with shelf life of a hard drive, even if it is a 2.5" drive... so untill I prove to myself that they can hold up, Im staying cheap.
03-12-2003, 09:07 PM
#83
I posted this on mp3car.com
but figured Id give it to you guys too to make sense of maybe. its concerning a better way to hook sound into the stereo.
this would be on the bose unit, I can look to see how different it is from base unit tho.
but figured Id give it to you guys too to make sense of maybe. its concerning a better way to hook sound into the stereo.
this would be on the bose unit, I can look to see how different it is from base unit tho.
trying to make sense of it... and this is what Ive found, theres inputs into the head unit which it calls "navi input (-)" and "navi input (+)" and on the actual line it says W/B and L/B, there is also a "navi ground" along with a "navi on" they are 4 plugs on the back.
any way this can happen with these?
then going to the amp, it has 2 lines (+ and -) for each of the speakers... which totals to 4 pairs of wires(2 pair for front speakers, which after the amp split to control door speakers and tweeters, and the other 2pairs do the rear speakers) for a total of 6 speakers. plus anothe 2 for the subwoofer...
to me, the uninformed, it would seem there is no good place to splice into it after the headunit...
any way this can happen with these?
then going to the amp, it has 2 lines (+ and -) for each of the speakers... which totals to 4 pairs of wires(2 pair for front speakers, which after the amp split to control door speakers and tweeters, and the other 2pairs do the rear speakers) for a total of 6 speakers. plus anothe 2 for the subwoofer...
to me, the uninformed, it would seem there is no good place to splice into it after the headunit...
03-12-2003, 09:09 PM
#84
Registered User
Originally posted by alphared
oh, Hdd is 40gig, 5600. about 140 bux (fastest speed i can find)
DVD are both 6X and both around 40 bux each.
oh, Hdd is 40gig, 5600. about 140 bux (fastest speed i can find)
DVD are both 6X and both around 40 bux each.
I was envisioning a slot drive for the accessible one, but I actually didn't know if they were available. I haven't done any searching for them because frankly, I didn't know what to call it.
Can you advise where these can be purchased?
03-12-2003, 09:24 PM
#86
Registered User
Originally posted by ares
power might become a concern... 2 dvd drives, tho I guess youd only be using one at a time so not a problem.
a valid concern tho about keeping dvd in a drive.
power might become a concern... 2 dvd drives, tho I guess youd only be using one at a time so not a problem.
a valid concern tho about keeping dvd in a drive.
Once I read all the posts over there for a third time, I'll register, and try and present my questions in a manner that wont result in 'use the search feature' replies.
Oh... and I won't mention my z over there, as they may call it a G35c.
03-12-2003, 09:29 PM
#87
hahaha, well Ill be the guinea pig I think, tomarrow begins my install with a tripplite 300 watt power inverter... to a 300watt PSU, for a total cost of about 70$, powering a athlon xp chip and nforce card, with dvd, hd, ect.
if I can make that run, than anyone with an epia motherboard need not worry about your power needs since Im looking at about 210watts max use, or atleast 60 higher than the epia should ever need. of course I can run ut2003 if I wanted
.
if I can make that run, than anyone with an epia motherboard need not worry about your power needs since Im looking at about 210watts max use, or atleast 60 higher than the epia should ever need. of course I can run ut2003 if I wanted
.
03-12-2003, 09:57 PM
#88
Registered User
if I knew what ut2003 is, I'm sure I'd be jealous.
I actually already have a 150w inverter, and i am fairly confident that using that in conjunction with a std 150w ATX power supply will more then work for me, but I'm really trying to stay all DC.
It's ironic, that for a living I sell transformers. Big ones, like 2000KVA, that step down voltages from 15kv to 480V, and yet, i am having big trouble figuring out how to manage a 12v system.
I actually already have a 150w inverter, and i am fairly confident that using that in conjunction with a std 150w ATX power supply will more then work for me, but I'm really trying to stay all DC.
It's ironic, that for a living I sell transformers. Big ones, like 2000KVA, that step down voltages from 15kv to 480V, and yet, i am having big trouble figuring out how to manage a 12v system.
03-13-2003, 06:38 AM
#91
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Yeah, I finally change the BIOS to allot 64mb of ram for the video card...that solved the problem. Much smoother DVD playback!
I have settled on running Win2000 Pro for my OS...it's a long story, but lets just say my attempt at trying Win98, XP Home, XP Pro was not too much fun. Win98 was what I wanted to use for a smaller footprint, but it just didn't like any of the VIA drivers I tried to install. Oh well, things are stable right now and other than a slightly longer boot up I'm pleased.
Now, power is going to be an issue. Although I have not had a problem with my setup in the house, I have this funny feeling I will have problems in the car. The power inverters are the least of my worries. My worry is the power supply, especially when starting to add USB devices that will draw more power. I found a couple of DC-DC power supplies at higher wattages (160watt), just trying to find costs and ordering options now.
I have settled on running Win2000 Pro for my OS...it's a long story, but lets just say my attempt at trying Win98, XP Home, XP Pro was not too much fun. Win98 was what I wanted to use for a smaller footprint, but it just didn't like any of the VIA drivers I tried to install. Oh well, things are stable right now and other than a slightly longer boot up I'm pleased.
Now, power is going to be an issue. Although I have not had a problem with my setup in the house, I have this funny feeling I will have problems in the car. The power inverters are the least of my worries. My worry is the power supply, especially when starting to add USB devices that will draw more power. I found a couple of DC-DC power supplies at higher wattages (160watt), just trying to find costs and ordering options now.
03-13-2003, 06:48 AM
#93
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For now, since they are so cheap, I'm thinking about just using an AC-DC power supply (~150watt) and an inverter. I mean I have the inverter anyway, and the AC-DC power supplies are pretty damn cheap right now. I might just have to live with an DC-AC-DC system for a little while because I'm not spending that much money on a damn power supply!
03-13-2003, 06:53 AM
#94
well there are benifits to dc-AC-dc other than cost. for one, my inverter will notify me when voltage gets low, and will shut off if it goes under 9.7, which means it will never kill my battery. it was a 300watt for 45$, not a bad price, it puts out a sine wave, and has an internal cooling fan. also you can use the second plug that most inverters have to power anything else your needing to have AC power.
03-13-2003, 07:05 AM
#96
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Originally posted by aggie300zx
I have settled on running Win2000 Pro for my OS...it's a long story, but lets just say my attempt at trying Win98, XP Home, XP Pro was not too much fun.
I have settled on running Win2000 Pro for my OS...it's a long story, but lets just say my attempt at trying Win98, XP Home, XP Pro was not too much fun.
Secondly, is anyone familiar with purchasing OEM versions of Windows? When I do a price search (such as at Pricegrabber.com), a full version OS that is for OEM's is same price (or cheaper) then buying a regular Upgrade version. Are there issues with consumers buying OEM versions to save some bucks?
03-13-2003, 07:34 AM
#97
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Guys... make sure to watch out for noise. I did a system a long time ago with a mini pc running of an inverter controlled by a palm pilot being feed to my audio system. I suffered from a huge noise problem. Just FYI. I'm not a stereo guru so I just gave up.. But I bet any audio shop could have fixed it.
03-13-2003, 07:38 AM
#98
you need a ground control loop.
as for 2000 over xp, xp is VERY intense on the computer, it has some heavy hitting requirements, a 800-900mhz computer would be a bit stressed to run it smoothly. specially when you figure 8-900mhz epia computer isnt quite equal to a 8-900mhz desktop.
also xp is near a gig of hd space if memory serves, some might only be working with 20 gigs of hd, so saving space becomes a concern.
as for 2000 over xp, xp is VERY intense on the computer, it has some heavy hitting requirements, a 800-900mhz computer would be a bit stressed to run it smoothly. specially when you figure 8-900mhz epia computer isnt quite equal to a 8-900mhz desktop.
also xp is near a gig of hd space if memory serves, some might only be working with 20 gigs of hd, so saving space becomes a concern.
03-13-2003, 07:47 AM
#99
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I think, basically, XP requires more resources to run the same application. Requires faster hardware.
OEM version of windows is the way to go. It's usually at least half the cost of a retail version. OEM versions require you to purchase hardware with the software (stick of memory, HD, etc).
OEM version of windows is the way to go. It's usually at least half the cost of a retail version. OEM versions require you to purchase hardware with the software (stick of memory, HD, etc).
Originally posted by Scafremon
I'd be curious to know why Win2000 over WinXP. I've never used Win 2000, and was planning on using XP for this system.
Secondly, is anyone familiar with purchasing OEM versions of Windows? When I do a price search (such as at Pricegrabber.com), a full version OS that is for OEM's is same price (or cheaper) then buying a regular Upgrade version. Are there issues with consumers buying OEM versions to save some bucks?
I'd be curious to know why Win2000 over WinXP. I've never used Win 2000, and was planning on using XP for this system.
Secondly, is anyone familiar with purchasing OEM versions of Windows? When I do a price search (such as at Pricegrabber.com), a full version OS that is for OEM's is same price (or cheaper) then buying a regular Upgrade version. Are there issues with consumers buying OEM versions to save some bucks?
03-13-2003, 09:57 AM
#100
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(win2000) Yes, for all those reasons that folks have mentioned. I was told that the reference term for this stuff is called "footprint" which encompasses all of the system resources like CPU, RAM, Storeage space, etc. Therefore the Win2000 footprint is smaller than XP, and is more stable than Win98.
Yeah, I was reading about the noise issue introduced, but I figured for $15-20 (power supply) it is worth giving that a try before spending $$$$ for these more powerful DC-DC power supplies (not that I am going to spend that much anway).
Yeah, I was reading about the noise issue introduced, but I figured for $15-20 (power supply) it is worth giving that a try before spending $$$$ for these more powerful DC-DC power supplies (not that I am going to spend that much anway).