Wiring harness aftermarket headunit
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I'm pretty sure all Nissans use the same wiring harness despite the headunit you already have in there. Also, I believe crutchfield gives you the wiring harness if I'm not mistaken, so they should be giving you what you need.
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Originally Posted by finallyaZdriver
I'm pretty sure all Nissans use the same wiring harness despite the headunit you already have in there. Also, I believe crutchfield gives you the wiring harness if I'm not mistaken, so they should be giving you what you need.
+1 ... the Bose will have the wires routed to the amp, while non-Bose wired directly to the speakers...but it's the same harness.
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Guys,
I am going to replace all speakers, headunit, amps. Can I still re-use the factory speaker wires or do I have to rerun the wires? Like you say, the speaker are routed to the amp which I am assuming I cannot?
Plus any special steps I have to take to remove all bose parts I don't use? I had a non bose 350z and did all my installed before. So this isn't going to be any different?
Thanks,
Tony
I am going to replace all speakers, headunit, amps. Can I still re-use the factory speaker wires or do I have to rerun the wires? Like you say, the speaker are routed to the amp which I am assuming I cannot?
Plus any special steps I have to take to remove all bose parts I don't use? I had a non bose 350z and did all my installed before. So this isn't going to be any different?
Thanks,
Tony
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Originally Posted by joegengsta
hmm.. so are you saying if i got an aftermarket head unit.. i'd just get a regular 350z harness? i thought we needed some metra harness or something
For non-Bose OEM HU, however, there is no OEM amp to bypass.
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u will be using the harness with male plug from your car, you head unit will come with its male harness that goes plugs to the head unit but the other end will be bare cables, u will need to get a female harness that plugs to the car harness- u splice the bought female harness to the head unit harness.... unless u want to cut your car male harness off and splice it directly into the head unit harness...
if you go to circuitcity of something of the sort, they will sell harness' that will require no splicing, but you need to buy 2, a harness with female plug that goes into the car on one end and a 20-pin connector on the other, then u need to buy the harness with male plug for your head unit and 20-pin connector
if you go to circuitcity of something of the sort, they will sell harness' that will require no splicing, but you need to buy 2, a harness with female plug that goes into the car on one end and a 20-pin connector on the other, then u need to buy the harness with male plug for your head unit and 20-pin connector
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usmanasif,
Just to confirm. I will use the aftermarket wiring harness and plug into the factory wiring harness. I will run new speaker cables (instead of using the stock wires) from the backup end of the aftermarket wiring harness to my amps or speakers.
Is that correct?
Thanks,
Tony
Just to confirm. I will use the aftermarket wiring harness and plug into the factory wiring harness. I will run new speaker cables (instead of using the stock wires) from the backup end of the aftermarket wiring harness to my amps or speakers.
Is that correct?
Thanks,
Tony
#9
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Yes, that is correct. After connecting the aftermarket wiring harness to the OEM Nissan harness and plugging your new HU's harness behind the unit, you will start connecting the "loose" wires between the two harnesses to each other (power, ground, illumination, etc.). On the aftermarket harness, you will leave all of the 8 total speaker wires alone. On the HU's own harness, you will take its 8 speaker wires (2 per speaker) and patch-in your own speaker wire into them (watch the polarity), then route all the speaker wires to their respective speakers/crossovers and you're done.
If you're using an aftermarket amp, it is a different story of course, as speaker wire will run from that instead.
If you're using an aftermarket amp, it is a different story of course, as speaker wire will run from that instead.
#10
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don't run new speaker wires
new headunit
new amps
new speakers
you will use rca cables from new amps to new head unit no need for running new speaker wires
that is what the rca are 4
the factory speaker wires are sufficient guage if your using an amp that is for example 4 channel and 50 -75 watts a channel
in a case were for example you are running a set of components in front doors and a set of components in rear as well and your using an 800 watt 4 channel then i would suggest re running new speaker wire
peace
new headunit
new amps
new speakers
you will use rca cables from new amps to new head unit no need for running new speaker wires
that is what the rca are 4
the factory speaker wires are sufficient guage if your using an amp that is for example 4 channel and 50 -75 watts a channel
in a case were for example you are running a set of components in front doors and a set of components in rear as well and your using an 800 watt 4 channel then i would suggest re running new speaker wire
peace
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If you are replacing the speakers, HU and amp it is better to run all new wiring instead of splicing into the OEM wiring. The OEM wire gauge is probably sufficient but it is less likely to mess up if you use new wiring.
The biggest pain is getting the new speaker wiring into the doors, but there is a DIY I followed that worked well for me.
Like said above, the new HU connects to the Amp using RCA cables. The speakers will connect direcly to the amp. You will need to run power supply wiring to the amp as well.
I bought the Metra wiring harness and spliced it to the wiring harness provided with the HU. This you can do ahead of time to shorten the install time. I left all the unused OEM wiring in place... but disconnected.
The biggest pain is getting the new speaker wiring into the doors, but there is a DIY I followed that worked well for me.
Like said above, the new HU connects to the Amp using RCA cables. The speakers will connect direcly to the amp. You will need to run power supply wiring to the amp as well.
I bought the Metra wiring harness and spliced it to the wiring harness provided with the HU. This you can do ahead of time to shorten the install time. I left all the unused OEM wiring in place... but disconnected.
Last edited by 240Zplus110; 01-23-2007 at 10:51 AM.
#13
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Originally Posted by 240Zplus110
If you are replacing the speakers, HU and amp it is better to run all new wiring instead of splicing into the OEM wiring.
I think my head just exploded
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Originally Posted by tractng
Guys,
I am going to replace all speakers, headunit, amps. Can I still re-use the factory speaker wires or do I have to rerun the wires?
I am going to replace all speakers, headunit, amps. Can I still re-use the factory speaker wires or do I have to rerun the wires?
Head exploding must have something to do with the altitude.. dude
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this guy who posted made a lot of sense. New speaker wires, route to the amp. There is a sticky thread that shows how to take off the dash, door panels, and loosen the fireharness thingy that clamps to the body where all the wiring goes into the door from.
i just removed my rear speakers and replaced them tonight, so im at it too.
metra wire harness, 70-7550
you need a dash kit, depending on if yours is 2006 metra 99-7602 (double din and single din with tray, or 95-7602 double din or dual single din),
or
2003-2005 models metra dash kit 99-7402.
i am running a 4ga power wire direct from the battery to a fused distribution block with 8 ga connections behind the passenger seat.
if you hadnt ran any stereo installs before expect to do this on a day off if you are a daily driver.
dont forget crimp fasteners (damn i always do)
im thinking right about now, for shows ...i think i want to run an always hot power line to the radio, does anybody think that's a good idea or not? Is there a way to have a throw switch that can switch back and forth with ignition on power and always on power to be able to play sounds at a show or a meet without the key in the ignition?
...otherwise, I guess I dont mind shutting off the radio manually since i am also doing a car-puter and probably gonna need to figure out a few things as i go.
sorry im babbling, im just excited about all this stuff.
curious for suggestions....
1.best placement for amps if have 2 or 3.
2.best sound placement for 3 10" sub enclosure (still debating whether
all the way in the rear of the hatch or between the rear strutbar and rear speakers.
Ron
i just removed my rear speakers and replaced them tonight, so im at it too.
metra wire harness, 70-7550
you need a dash kit, depending on if yours is 2006 metra 99-7602 (double din and single din with tray, or 95-7602 double din or dual single din),
or
2003-2005 models metra dash kit 99-7402.
i am running a 4ga power wire direct from the battery to a fused distribution block with 8 ga connections behind the passenger seat.
if you hadnt ran any stereo installs before expect to do this on a day off if you are a daily driver.
dont forget crimp fasteners (damn i always do)
im thinking right about now, for shows ...i think i want to run an always hot power line to the radio, does anybody think that's a good idea or not? Is there a way to have a throw switch that can switch back and forth with ignition on power and always on power to be able to play sounds at a show or a meet without the key in the ignition?
...otherwise, I guess I dont mind shutting off the radio manually since i am also doing a car-puter and probably gonna need to figure out a few things as i go.
sorry im babbling, im just excited about all this stuff.
curious for suggestions....
1.best placement for amps if have 2 or 3.
2.best sound placement for 3 10" sub enclosure (still debating whether
all the way in the rear of the hatch or between the rear strutbar and rear speakers.
Ron
Originally Posted by 240Zplus110
If you are replacing the speakers, HU and amp it is better to run all new wiring instead of splicing into the OEM wiring. The OEM wire gauge is probably sufficient but it is less likely to mess up if you use new wiring.
The biggest pain is getting the new speaker wiring into the doors, but there is a DIY I followed that worked well for me.
Like said above, the new HU connects to the Amp using RCA cables. The speakers will connect direcly to the amp. You will need to run power supply wiring to the amp as well.
I bought the Metra wiring harness and spliced it to the wiring harness provided with the HU. This you can do ahead of time to shorten the install time. I left all the unused OEM wiring in place... but disconnected.
The biggest pain is getting the new speaker wiring into the doors, but there is a DIY I followed that worked well for me.
Like said above, the new HU connects to the Amp using RCA cables. The speakers will connect direcly to the amp. You will need to run power supply wiring to the amp as well.
I bought the Metra wiring harness and spliced it to the wiring harness provided with the HU. This you can do ahead of time to shorten the install time. I left all the unused OEM wiring in place... but disconnected.
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Originally Posted by usmanasif
Correct you are! This altitude can have its pitfalls. It has kept the Z firmly planted in the garage for well over a month now with all the snow. But come spring and I will be tackling the twisties like a bat out of hell!
Here we get mostly rain... lots of ski snow within 45min of downtown. Car has only been parked for a week due to snow/ice conditions.
In between rain showers I've been re-doing my whole sound system -- did lots of research and read lots of DIY's at various forums before starting my project. So far, new door speakers & speaker wiring and power supply to location of amp has been done. Still lots ot do -- mount amp and change out HU, install steering wheel switch adaptor and complete wiring.
BTW... Redline ... my first choice for color -- couldn't find a used one. Got second choice -- Silverstone (low miles, well taken care of)
Cheers!
PS.. if you need a copy of audio wiring schematics for either 03-05 or 06 models PM me and I'll email a copy.
Last edited by 240Zplus110; 01-24-2007 at 08:03 AM.
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