Rear Speaker Panel Dissection
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear Speaker Panel Dissection
Okay, I know that this has been posted before, but it was quite a while ago. Hopefully, this will be stickied or put in the "How to" thread.
For background info on my system, and some (hopefully) helpful hints on aftermarket installation, refer to my previous two threads
Pioneer System Parts Pics Part I
Pioneer Installation
As I left off in the last thread, I hadn't completed the installation because I still needed one set of brackets. I finally got them, and today I decided to take apart the rear section to put those brackets on. These directions will guide you through taking apart the rear panels to get to the rear cubbies and the rear speakers. With a little more work, you can get the glove compartment panel off also.
We'll start with removing the door sill trim panels. This is easy, just lift and they'll pop off.
Sorry this is a little dark.
For background info on my system, and some (hopefully) helpful hints on aftermarket installation, refer to my previous two threads
Pioneer System Parts Pics Part I
Pioneer Installation
As I left off in the last thread, I hadn't completed the installation because I still needed one set of brackets. I finally got them, and today I decided to take apart the rear section to put those brackets on. These directions will guide you through taking apart the rear panels to get to the rear cubbies and the rear speakers. With a little more work, you can get the glove compartment panel off also.
We'll start with removing the door sill trim panels. This is easy, just lift and they'll pop off.
Sorry this is a little dark.
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The next step is to pull off some of the flexible door weather strip around the rear of the door. This again just lifts up and pulls off. You only need to remove as much as is covering the rear quarter panel.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The next step is a little harder, you have to remove the rear quarter panels. Basically, start at the most anterior portion, just below the door. Pull out on it, then keep working back. Put a hand on the inside and push out (actually, push in towards the middle of the car). Here's a picture of the panel after removal.
It's sitting in my trunk, the part closest to you is the back part.
It's sitting in my trunk, the part closest to you is the back part.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's another picture of the rear panel. There are a few push pin attachments. Here's a closeup of some. You can see I lost one of the blue ones, I'll have to find a replacement.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now that you've pulled both of the rear quarter panels, you've exposed a lot of wiring on the left side of the car. I think that the actual wires to the rear speakers run here, but don't quote me on this one.
There are three screws which can be removed. This will help and is necessary if you want to remove the glove compartment panel. The first screw is under the coin box. Just lift the box up and unscrew what's underneath.
There are three screws which can be removed. This will help and is necessary if you want to remove the glove compartment panel. The first screw is under the coin box. Just lift the box up and unscrew what's underneath.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are two more screws on the middle transmission tunnel. They're pretty easy to find.
Once these three screws are out, the armrest panel can be loosened up a lot. If you want to pull the glove compartment panel, it needs to be a little loose.
Once these three screws are out, the armrest panel can be loosened up a lot. If you want to pull the glove compartment panel, it needs to be a little loose.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The glove compartment panel can now be loosened. Again, it's just held in place by clips. Start on one of the lower corners and start pulling. The power outlet can be disconnected if you want, I didn't have to for what I was going to do.
I don't have a very good picture, but here's one of the upper clips.
I don't have a very good picture, but here's one of the upper clips.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Finally, the tough part. The double hump rear panel is a pain in the ***. I'll show you a pic of the inside so you know what you're dealing with.
You'll notice there are a few clips on the back and a bunch on the top.
You'll notice there are a few clips on the back and a bunch on the top.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The rear attachments were very difficult for me to get. I don't have any secrets as to how to mobilize this section other than to pull hard. I noticed there was a bulge on this area from where my installer had pulled hard also.
Anybody have any good hints?
Anybody have any good hints?
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Putting the parts back is a little more difficult than taking things apart. Get the double hump part back in the car, hook up the small attachments on the back, and then get everything lined up left to right.
I had problems with the top plugs, until I realized that a closed fist swung downward at the appropriate areas was very effective.
Push the glove compartment part back. Just push all over until there are no more clicks.
The rear quarters are fairly straightforward. Start from the back and after things are lined up, just start hammering.
Slip the flexible trim ring back and then the trim strips.
Congrats, you're done!
You can see that the DVD player sticks out a bit more than my Nav unit.
Yes, I know the car is dirty. It doesn't look that bad in real life.
I had problems with the top plugs, until I realized that a closed fist swung downward at the appropriate areas was very effective.
Push the glove compartment part back. Just push all over until there are no more clicks.
The rear quarters are fairly straightforward. Start from the back and after things are lined up, just start hammering.
Slip the flexible trim ring back and then the trim strips.
Congrats, you're done!
You can see that the DVD player sticks out a bit more than my Nav unit.
Yes, I know the car is dirty. It doesn't look that bad in real life.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I hope this was helpful.
We really really REALLY need a FAQ or more formal "How to" section.
On the Whitestone Bridge coming back from the auto show.
We really really REALLY need a FAQ or more formal "How to" section.
On the Whitestone Bridge coming back from the auto show.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Blue Steel
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fix That bulge!
Originally posted by rouxeny
The rear attachments were very difficult for me to get. I don't have any secrets as to how to mobilize this section other than to pull hard. I noticed there was a bulge on this area from where my installer had pulled hard also.
Anybody have any good hints?
The rear attachments were very difficult for me to get. I don't have any secrets as to how to mobilize this section other than to pull hard. I noticed there was a bulge on this area from where my installer had pulled hard also.
Anybody have any good hints?
This same thing happened to me. That bulge is caused by a clip that isnt lining up correctly. I had to hit the area with my palm in an upward direction (very firmly!). It will pop back into place.. if you do not do this, it will whiten the plastic and cause a permenent deformation in the area. Good luck.
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rouxeny, good post, thanks for taking the time to take so pictures to show each step. I know it is a pita, but I am sure it makes all the difference in the world
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LCD Question
Hey, I really like these posts and have een reading all of them. I looked at this post on How T0's and they are the best ones I have seen yet. I am wondering if you guys might also be able to post a How To on installing an 7 inch LCD screen (Farenheit or Xenarc, not sure which one yet) in the dash. You showed how to take apart the das, buyt now I wanna know how to mount it and hook up all the wires. Also, I wanna know how to hook up a ps2 to the screen without any of the wires showing. I am wondering where I should put the ps2. If someone could please reply as soon as possible that would be appreciated.
Another post could be how to install a sub in the stock compartment if I do not already have a sub there as well as the amp and hoe I could put the amp and capaciter within the glove compartment. Thanx
Another post could be how to install a sub in the stock compartment if I do not already have a sub there as well as the amp and hoe I could put the amp and capaciter within the glove compartment. Thanx
#18
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ill vote for an LCD DIY too, specially one that would mention any cutting involved in fitting an Alpine TME-M760???
Ive been collecting and printing out these DIY Audio guides to give to my installer when i get around to fitting my audio gear.
Doubtful ne1 in Aus has pulled apart a Z yet, i dont want em hacking the thing apart
Ive been collecting and printing out these DIY Audio guides to give to my installer when i get around to fitting my audio gear.
Doubtful ne1 in Aus has pulled apart a Z yet, i dont want em hacking the thing apart
#19
Registered User
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=27383
Just use heavy duty double side tape to hold the screen to the dash. For power (many ways to do it) just tap into the stereo ACC (light green wire, first one on the left of the big connector) and the ground could be the big copper one near the 3 gauge under the dash.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=28811
This is what I did for sub enclosure.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=26222
This is what jhagan did.
Just use heavy duty double side tape to hold the screen to the dash. For power (many ways to do it) just tap into the stereo ACC (light green wire, first one on the left of the big connector) and the ground could be the big copper one near the 3 gauge under the dash.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=28811
This is what I did for sub enclosure.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=26222
This is what jhagan did.
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 2,774
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agreed. Scafremon's directions on taking the center console apart are great. It's not too difficult if you have those near you. As to mounting the screen, go get some double sided tape and cut it to fit. It feels very secure and if it ever gets loose, I'll just tape it again.
The best place to put a playstation would be in the glove compartment, shouldn't be too hard to put the wires down the center console, down by the transmission tunnel and to the back storage.
Taking apart a Z is pretty easy. There are essentially no "hidden" screws, everything just pops apart with clips, most of which are replaceable.
The best place to put a playstation would be in the glove compartment, shouldn't be too hard to put the wires down the center console, down by the transmission tunnel and to the back storage.
Taking apart a Z is pretty easy. There are essentially no "hidden" screws, everything just pops apart with clips, most of which are replaceable.