OK I have done alot of research and I just want some quick opinions on this setup before I order everything. I plan on getting:

1)Pioneer avic d3 headunit
2)kicker 10" L7 in the zenclosure box
3)Powered by kicker 750.1
4)Polk audio db6500 6 1/2 components in the front doors
5)Polk audio db5250 5 1/4 components behind the seats
6)Powered by kicker 350.4 or 650.4

I know people are going to say get whatever you like but I just want to know if Im making a huge mistake or if all this will work well together, such as the amps having enough power or the speakers and subs being too much for the Z. Also, should I get a capacitor for each amp? Also, for the L7, do I get a 4 ohm or 2 ohm?

Thanks to anyone that helps me out!

 

I don't know anything about the amps, but you do not need to replace the rear speakers. Many of us here do not even run rears at all in our upgrades.

 

So do most of you adjust so most or all of the sound comes just out of the front components? I know you said you dont know about the amps but would I even need an amp for for the 2 fronts? Thanks

 

Your brands are quality. The big thing will be Dynomat,Dynomat,Dynomat. Use as much of it as possible. Also DVFlyer is right. Too much muscle beind those seats, and you will be deaf, it is not plesant. I had to turn mine down to almost Zero. Amp for the fronts for sure. The hardest thing about the Z is tuning the sound. It is hard to get it balanced.

 

Ebony, would I switch to a 2 channel amp then, such as 350/2? And Im glad you brought up dynomat because I forgot to ask about that. What all should be dynomated? Just bottom of trunk? Thanks for your help!

 

Sounds like a pretty good setup but the 5-1/4" rear comps are pointless. I would go with 6.5" coaxs in the rear and power them off the head unit and bridge a 350.4 on the front components. The rear stage really isn't necessary...if you heard a Z with a good pair of components in the doors with decent power and no rear speakers, you would understand. I have my factory rears on head unit power and nice comps on 125 watts each and it sounds awesome

 

i actually like my rear speakers..i'm running JL VR 6.5 coaxial in the rears and i think it sounds really nice...its powered by 300/4 JL amp...

 

You shouldn't need any capacitors. I have the mtx 9500 and 4500 subs running off the te801d amp and i am fine. Why are you doing the 5 1/4 in the rear? Why do the same all around. I have the polk audio momos 6 1/2 components all around. FYI you will have to cut out for the tweeters in the back.

 

Thanks guys for all your comments. Helping alot! Keep them coming!

 

One cap near the sub amp should be fine. You'll need a dual voice coil 4 ohm sub wired to show the amp 2 ohms to get the power you need to drive that single L7.
Agreed on the rear speakers, they're really not necessary and you can save some bucks by just picking up a 2 channel amp to drive the fronts and ignore a rear speaker purchase altogether. If It was me, I'd channel that money into a beefier sub amp that would put out more like 1000 watts instead of 750 to drive that L7. As it is now your only hitting it with 750, RMS for that sub is 600 watts. but thats just me...

 

*Kicker ZX350.2 to power front components
*Kicker ZX750.1 to power sub (150rms watts is plenty of overhead above the 600rms of the sub)
*Kicker Solo-Baric S10L74 Dual 4-ohm sub wired in parallel to show the amp a 2-ohm load (wants minimum .88 cu ft.....you will need about 1 pound of polyfill for the Zenclosure)
*Polk audio db6500 6 1/2 components in the front doors in pods (either Nazar's or Zenclosure's)

If you really want/need rears, then just get Polk coaxials, powered off headunit, and faded out to be BARELY noticeable.

Good choice of headunit to run the whole show. You will need about 75 sq ft of sound deadening. Search around here for pics of what guys have done. You need to do a lot more than just the floor in the hatch (need to do doors, doors, doors, floor boards, entire hatch area, etc.) Don't forget a good wiring kit. I would forget about the cap, but that is just my opinion....I feel caps are nothing more than a band aid for a bigger problem. Do the install without the cap. If you experience light dimming, then use the $100 or so that you would have spent on a cap and upgrade the stock wiring (big 3), battery, and/or alternator (one at a time in that order).

Hope this helps. I'm sure I'm forgetting to tell you something, but I'll post back if I think of anything else.

 

What would you consider a great wiring kit? Stinger 4 gauge?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-1-2-Fara...QQcmdZViewItem

 

stinger is good i have used nothing but that in my last 4 cars

 

Stinger is excellent quality, you would be hard pressed to find better quality in fact.

The link you provided I think is for a kit with a cap cap though. I don't feel you will need a cap....try this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-PRO-4-GA...QQcmdZViewItem

 

If i ordered that wire would that be all I need to connect the sub and and the 2 component speakers to the amp? Any ideas where to get the polyfill and some sound deadening? Thanks again!

 

In addition to that kit, you will need RCA cables and speaker wire.

You can actually place 1 big order of an amp kit, RCA cables, speaker wire, polyfill, and sound deadening from www.sounddomain.com among other places. (sounddomain is an authorized dealer for everything they sell)

Or you can save some money by spending time and purchasing each item seperately from ebay, or other places.

 

+1 no need for the rear speakers.

Like Street said (btw, he knows his stuff) with the money you are saving I would install everything and then see if you are getting any light dimming at night when you have your headlights and dash lights on. After my install I had the dimming and now I'm going to do the Big 3 as soon as I can get to Houston to see my installer. About $150 to be done professionally.

I would only suggest going with a different sub. A lot of people were pointing me in the direction of Image Dynamics, RE, Diamond Audio, Elemental Design...etc. I know Image Dynamics has a sub called ID MAX that is supposed to be unreal. Good luck man, take pics!