this is the BIGGEST pain in the *** thing I have ever done! Here I was thinking it would be some what easy to do...peel off the backing and roll it out right...LOL wrong!! This **** is like super dooper wooper glue!!!!! The second it sets on the metal that stuff does not want to come up at all and with all the curves, tight spots, and very awkward contours of the metal in the hatch its not making it fun at all! So now I totally know why shops charge so much if you have them install..b/c it sucks!!! Too time consuming, I'm like half way through a 50ft roll and it looks like we haven't done anything!! Thank God there is a case in fridge waiting for us!!

 

I know what you mean. What I usually do is to rip a section of the car apart and do that section on a weekend day. Break the whole car into several weekends so you just don't say "screw it! it looks good to me!"

All I have left now is the doors. Unfortunately, I went and installed all the components in there and now it is going to be a pita getting it all back in when I dynamat them. Oh well, the price of having decent sound.

 

LOL, I did the complete opposite of you! After I started the rear and seen how much of a pain it was I decided to stop that part and make sure I took every little panel out and not stop until I couldn't see Lemans anymore!

If I would of started the other way I would of already been at the "looks good enough to me"!!! So I'm driving around with EVERY panel from behind the cubby out of the car right now! Looks pretty dam funny from the outside looking in! All you see is the bright aluminum backing and black or Lemans paint! And damn my back is killing me!!!

 

btw....can you post some pics of you doors with the spacers for me? I have the S600s kits and wondering what Im in for on the install / spacing! Would be a huge help

 

I have to find a digital camera in order to take pics. Check this thread and I will try and get some this weekend. As for the spacers, what I did is buy some MDF (I got one sheet of 5/8") and created two spacers from an outline of the factory one and my trusty jigsaw. Glued em together and drilled them in. I did not want to screw around with the tweeters in the factory location so I just mounted them to the door itself using some sheet metal screws. The sound is better than I thought it would be and very respectable. For the back where the 600s are, I had a 2" hole saw blade that I used to create holes next to the speaker grills for the tweets. Fits fine, although they were not snug, so I used a hot glue gun to mount them also. Very tight and stock looking.

The most difficult thing in the doors is finding a good spot to puy the crossovers. The drivers side is easy, I mounted it next to the rubber grommet containing all the wiring for the door and the silver backing plate. The passenger side was more difficult considering the same spot had the silver handle upper screw blocked. It required a little finess with a big screw driver to nudge it down a tad in order to put the door back in. I only screwed it in with one sheet metal screw so that I could massage the crossover down a bit, but since the door fits really tight against the crossover, I know it won't move a bit.

Let me see what I can come up with in terms of pics.

 

question, how do you remove the dynamat? I need to remove them so the dealer can do the windows grease tsb... is there a solution to help this? Thanks.

 

use a heat gun to melt it alittle, it should come off. When it does it'll be really messy.

 

wow, really feel sorry for you on this one! why do you need to remove it? did you cover the bolts or over lap panels etc?

 

Does anyone else fell like throwing 50lbs of dampening material in your car is kinda not worth it? I tried some dynamat on the subwoofer mount(metal) and it didnt do crap. It was the new Dynamat Extreme.

To get it off.... I was able to just grab an edge and peel.. however, some mess will be left that you must scrape off with a fingernail.

 

I've been using Fatmat and I think its just as sticky. To make it easy to work. I only put on section at on time. It's not one piece but it shouldn't sound different and it looks fine. Before I put it over bolts I punch a hole with a gsket punch. So everything should come apart if you need to remove anything.