Rear Speakers
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I am installing an Avic Z2 HU, an AMP JL 500/1 with 2/10 JL Woofer W3, Focal K2P 6.5 for the front with JL AMP 300/4 and I don't know what should I use for the back speakers, any suggestions?
Last edited by 350ZMPH; 11-08-2007 at 08:31 PM.
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If you decide to use rear speakers, I would suggest installing some decent coaxials (I swapped out the cheap OEM Clarions for Infinity coaxials).
Actually I do like the rear fill I get from the Infinity coaxials.
--Spike
Actually I do like the rear fill I get from the Infinity coaxials.
--Spike
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If you are going to do rear fill, it will always be best to use a speaker that is timbre matched to your front stage. So using the same speaker, 165 K2P, would be the best. If you want to save a little money you could use the 165 KF, since they are al least from the same Polyglass line and should be timbre matched.
If you are not concerned with timbre matching then I would suggest not even bothering buying an aftermarket speaker and using the stockers. Rear fill should never be "heard" but they are there to round out the sound, and thereby should only get about 25% of the power the fronts are getting. You can achieve this by turning down the gains on the amp or by using the fader on the headunit.
If you prefer to actually hear the sound from all around you and are not concerned with timbre matching, then pick up any coax or component set you want that will handle the power you will be feeding it with your amp.
If you are not concerned with timbre matching then I would suggest not even bothering buying an aftermarket speaker and using the stockers. Rear fill should never be "heard" but they are there to round out the sound, and thereby should only get about 25% of the power the fronts are getting. You can achieve this by turning down the gains on the amp or by using the fader on the headunit.
If you prefer to actually hear the sound from all around you and are not concerned with timbre matching, then pick up any coax or component set you want that will handle the power you will be feeding it with your amp.
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I added some components to the back just because I like a little more fill so it's "centered" in the cabin.
The rears are 32ohm Clarions and put out little sound. Just understand that if you put in aftermarket rears that the sound staging will change dramatically.
Of course you can always fade towards the front.
The rears are 32ohm Clarions and put out little sound. Just understand that if you put in aftermarket rears that the sound staging will change dramatically.
Of course you can always fade towards the front.
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Another option is to pick up some component convertibles. The tweeter can be mounted on top of the midrange to make a coaxial setup. Still using the crossover mind you. The polk SRs can do that. Not sure about any other brands...
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
rear fill is not wrong just personal preferance
i would say more people run rear fill than not
i would say more people run rear fill than not
As CDs are replaced with DVDs, HD radio, and other digital devices; the rears will become an important part of a CES. Subs are already there.
--Spike
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If just want it to be loud and are not trying to simulate the sound of a live performance, then just install rear speakers.
Some people just like the sound of being "enveloped" in the music. they don't care if it comes from the front or back.
Personally, I just like front only, but to each their own.
"Rear fill" in a sound quality system only works if it is:
- lower power
- midrange-only
- digitally delayed.
I don't think matching timbre of "rear fill" speakers is important because the sound from them is supposed to me more ambient. Timbre matching is mostly important if you are going for real dolby digital or 5.1 surround. But then those are not rear fill, they are additional rear speakers.
My advice is that if you use rear speakers, try to seal the insides of the rear speaker chambers. Speaker enclosures should be as sealed as possible. If the sound wave from the back side of the speakers can work its way around to the front of the speaker, it can cancel out a lot of the bass and mid-bass. THose rear speaker chambers are full of holes. Get some dynamat or similar and use it to help seal the chamber.
In stock form, using the rear speakers causes lost mid-bass. My wife's non-bose in her z loses bass if you use all 4 speakers. Fading to front only, where the doors do a better job of sealing off the backwave, the bass is _much_ improved over using all 4 speakers.
My two cents..
Some people just like the sound of being "enveloped" in the music. they don't care if it comes from the front or back.
Personally, I just like front only, but to each their own.
"Rear fill" in a sound quality system only works if it is:
- lower power
- midrange-only
- digitally delayed.
I don't think matching timbre of "rear fill" speakers is important because the sound from them is supposed to me more ambient. Timbre matching is mostly important if you are going for real dolby digital or 5.1 surround. But then those are not rear fill, they are additional rear speakers.
My advice is that if you use rear speakers, try to seal the insides of the rear speaker chambers. Speaker enclosures should be as sealed as possible. If the sound wave from the back side of the speakers can work its way around to the front of the speaker, it can cancel out a lot of the bass and mid-bass. THose rear speaker chambers are full of holes. Get some dynamat or similar and use it to help seal the chamber.
In stock form, using the rear speakers causes lost mid-bass. My wife's non-bose in her z loses bass if you use all 4 speakers. Fading to front only, where the doors do a better job of sealing off the backwave, the bass is _much_ improved over using all 4 speakers.
My two cents..
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I sealed the rear speaker compartments as much as possible with sound deadening sheets, installed CDT Eurosports, and then promptly disconnected them. They really screwed up the sound stage since my 6.5 door pods were also on the same channel (I used 2 channels for the kick panel 5.25's and 2 channels for the 6.5's front and rear).
But if you have 2 channels for front and 2 channels for the rear and absolutely have to have rear fill, I would go with a mid only and avoid putting highs in the rear.
But if you have 2 channels for front and 2 channels for the rear and absolutely have to have rear fill, I would go with a mid only and avoid putting highs in the rear.
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I have Polk SR's all around with the rears mounted as coaxials. The speakers are powered by a JL 450/4. I love the smoothness of the SRs and overall sound, but in all honesty cannot say it was worth the additional cost. I would do just the front stage and invest the money for the four channel, rears, and install to something else the next time around.
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
in trunk cars i remove the rear fill to allow the open holes to vent pressure into cabin
in hatch cars like ours , my front stage is so overwhelming you would not even hear the rear fill
no rear fill FTW
spend that money on something else
in hatch cars like ours , my front stage is so overwhelming you would not even hear the rear fill
no rear fill FTW
spend that money on something else