you can hook up the gas lid pop.. other than that sounds like you have everything else hooked up.. i just added a few more sensors/sirens to mine.. as for the neutral safety i cant remember off hand what color the wire is.. i wanna say something like brown/orange or something like that but ill have to look when i get to work.. i can let you know in a couple hours if im able to find it..

 

ok the wire should be brown/yellow it will test ground when in neutral and 12v when in gear.

 

thank you VERY much drumminguy... the installer didnt even know that wire existed! previously he hooked up my safety to if my e-brake was up or not and now it only starts up when in neutral. the funny thing is he's previously dont a 6mt altima se-r and now hes gonna go back and check for that wire too.

tight350, thanks for all your help too. i asked him about the windows for you but he didnt give me much info, just said he hooked it up to the existing wiring and he only had to drag 2 wires into the actual door for window regulation...he said that part was pretty straight forward seeing as how our cars already have the regulators built in.

Everything is plugged in and set up exactly how i want it. I have windows up/down, hatch pop, and remote start only accessible when in neutral.

Life is good...now hopefully i dont start having problems with it.

 

hey, where/what color wires did you tap into for the windows to go down and up with the remote? i have a python 881xp

thanks!

 

Dang, dead thread. But anyways, I didnt have mine wired up with my 5900 because i know of someone getting their vehicle broken into because of that feature. The thief just ripped the door handle off and cut a wire and the windows rolled down.

 

Where can we find out what the wires do? I want to install this myself.

 

Ok, I have searched and can't find what I'm looking for. But it seems to have been brought up in here. How can I make it so I do not have to use my Clutch to turn car on? I know put in neutral and just want to start her up from there. And not have to press on my clutch, thank you for your help in advance. I have searched, but searching "Clutch Bypass" Brings a lot of threads with "Clutch" in it.

 

repost sorry

 

In the installation guide for my 5900 it says I need to use a relay on the trunk pop and dome light. Is this something they just put in the guide because some cars need it? I have never used a relay on these wires in the past. It's been a long time since I have done an alarm install. Any help would be great. Thanks

 

Not hooking these wires up won't make the car still secure. A knowledgable thief will still be able to rip the door handle off and lower the windows of your car.

To lower or raise the windows you just need to extend the (-) triggers of the lock and unlock wires.

The domelight and trunk release will change from car to car. If the Z uses a low current (-) signal to turn the domelight on and off and to pop the hatch then you won't need the relays. It's always safer to use a relay - especially if there is doubt, but, no, it is not always needed.

 

Well I installed the alarm it was easy for the most part, that is if it worked

1. I have set the locks to 2 pules and they work fine, but I can't get it to roll the windows up or down. I tried playing with the door lock pules time. Everything from 0.4, 0.8 and 3.5 The 3.5 was the only setting that made the windows move, but only about half way up or half way down depending on if I was unlocking or locking the Z.

2. Remote start. I know the tach wire is good because the alarm learns it. I know the brake wire is good because it will stop trying to stop it if I push the brakes. I know the neutral safty wire is good because it tries to start. I have messed with the Crank times, but no luck there. I read on hear that there is only one start wire and it's hooked up.

Any help you guys can give would be great!!


Thanks

 

You need to look in to a feature called "comfort Closing" or something along those lines. It will extend the door lock pulses to a much longer time. I've never actually done that on a DEI alarm as it is a newer feature and I haven't installed a newer alarm.

Just because the alarm learns the tach doesn't guarentee the tach is valid - it just means whatever you hooked the tach wire up to has a frequency on it. Where did you hook the tach wire to?

The crank time won't do anything in tach mode - the alarm doesn't use the crank time at all - it relies soley on the tach signal.

There should be to starter wires - if you live in a colder climate you need to hook them both up, if you life in a year round warm climate the second starter is basically optional (but should still be hooked up imo).

What is the car doing? Is it cranking at all? If so, how long? Are you confident your security bypass is working?

 

Thanks for the info. I found the comfort setting and now the windows go up when I lock the car
I have been playing with the remote start and this is what I have found so far.
The car will remote start and run with the key in and in the on postion.
The car will remote start, but then dies with the key in, but not in the on postion.
The car will not remote start with out the key in. All it does is crank.
I think the factory alarm is immobilizing the car once it starts because it's an unauthrorized start. I'm guessing I need to get another module for the key bypass. I'm also going to try and find away to disable the factory alarm.

 

Did anyone else need key bypass module and to disable their factory alarm??

 

It sounds, to me, like you have several problems.

What happens if you remote start the car while it is running and then take the key out?

If the car is starting while the key is in the "ON" position I would guess that your OEM security bypass isn't working. I would also guess that you don't have either an ignition or an accessory wire hooked up right.

I say this because if you have the bypass working and you put the key in the OEM security should "freak out" when it sees two keys and not allow the car to be started. However, if it was solely a security issue the car should still start when the key is merely in the ignition (the transponsder system works on the keysense signal, not the ignition status).

You will definately need a module to bypass the OEM transponder - something like a DEI 556U or a newer "keyless" bypass. I've installed some of the newer "keyless" systems and they are a pain, but it is nice not losing a key to the transponder box.

The OEM alarm arms and disarms using the lock and unlock wires - so if you hooked them up you have interfaced with the OEM system successfully.

 

Thanks for all your help. I got the alarm working and everything is good. Turns out that the factory hood pin which is negitive trigger also goes negitive as soon as the car starts and that's why the remote start would start and then shut down straight after. I put a diode on the wire coming from the ecu and it works fine now. I also got the windows to roll down with the remote by hooking the unlock wire to one of the channels. Of course I also needed a key bypass module and a spare key. I got the key from a mobile lock smith for $80. She said NOT to use a cloned key because some remote starts don't like to see two of the same key. Knowing this at the begining would have been great. Hopefully this will help someone else.

 

I've never heard not to used "cloned" keys - that doesn't really matter.

The issue is that OEM systems don't like to see two keys present at the same time regardless as it technically isn't feasable to have multiple keys within the short range of the OEM reader. The OEM system considers multiple keys present as a theft attempt and therefore won't start. Some cars will even erase all keys if it detects multiple keys at the same time.

That being said, the only time the remote start sends the signal is when you are remote starting the car - As long as you don't remote start the car with the key in the ignition you are fine. If you do try to remote start the car with the key in the ignition it won't start. I've done this a time or two on both my G35 and my Accord - neither cars erased the programmed keys so it isn't a big deal.

 

For what it's worth, I had the Viper 5901 installed in my 08 Entusiast last week, and it's awesome! The BBY installer owns a Nismo and he's a Z freak. Would rather work on them than anything else. Needless to say he did a fantastic job. Everything works, the remote start range is great, and the two way remote works flawlessly. BTW, my Z is auto, so no clutch/tranny problems.

 

I just installed a 5701 into my 08 Touring 6 speed. The neutral switch at the ECU tested ground while in neutral, but as soon as the remote start goes to ignition, that wire then reads 12v in neutral, thus shutting the remote start down. Any suggestions? I went to pin 109 of the ECU per the Service Manual, which is the PNP switch. (Park/Neutral Switch)