Well I got most of my system in I just need to hook the turn on wire to the amp. Anyone know of one thats near the glove box and easy to get to? I rather not have to rip a whole bunch of plastic apart to get to it.
Thanks!

 

I am trying to understand your question. Remote turn on lead is usually a blue wire behind the HU that you extend all the way to your amp and connect. What do you mean with being "easy to get to?"

 

+1

I run it underneath the console, all the way back under the plastic racks behind the seats.

 

Are you using the factory head unit?

How do ya like that bulleting? lol, been wanting to do that for a while now

 

most cars i have had i hook it up o the cig lighter or something. My head unit is already in and so forth so I rather not have to rip it out. Anyone know what color wire to tie it to with the cig lighter? The one on the drivers side unless the one behind the seats pulls right out

 

anyone know what color wire it is for the cig lighter? The one on the passenger side?

 

My opinion would be to take your time,,,remove the headunit and use the turn-on (trigger wire) located in the harness.

 

+1 on using the headunit's turn on lead. If you don't then if you are ever driving with your headunit off your amps will still be powered up for no reason. Is this detrimental? No, but it's just not the way I would want it.

If you are bent on using a nearby wire for a turn on lead, you can use a multimeter to find a +12v that turns off when the car is tuned off. If you don't have a multimeter, you can buy one almost anywhere for like $10.

 

Ill have to do a search I remember it was discussed before which wire did what.

And I can never think of a time i am driving with the h/u off. Maybe I have ATT on. (Kenwood feature)

 

LOL, 3 days researching what wire is a +12volts switched - you could have had the headunit out, splice the wire, run it along the center console into the glove box in about 30 minutes.

Even if you do read on here what wire provides a switched +12volts, I would NEVER use a wire that I personally did not test with a multimeter. Just my

 

3 days? Typically its the wire with the line running through it

 

not a good idea.

frequently the cig lighter will recieve power even after you kill the head unit so even if the unit is off on some speaker setups you will get a dull rumple from the speakers playing a solid tone from whatever power they can drain.
to re-affirm waht everyone else said take your time do it right
and especially don't do it that way

 

Different cig outlets will act like that. In the 350z I believe ours are not AUX ones. In my A4 the one in the trunk was always on, where the one in the car was off. Not disagreeing that the one off the head unit is the best option just knowing that I can go off the cig lighter is another option for me.

 

So then make it happen.

 

The only problem with tapping the cig lighter for amp (trigger wire), you take a chance of noise feedback when the car is turned off. Also,,if you ever use the cig lighter for (radar dect., ect. ect) you put a strain on that fused circuit. Just my opinion....

 

The turn on lead does not draw if any power. It just needs a 12+V line to signify that power can flow. A radar detector sucks a lot more power then a turn on lead. The amp gets its power directly from the battery

 

That is semi-correct, there is actual draw from the remote turn on lead. here is a small sampling of some of the draws on some amps (in milliamps):

MTX 2300: 14mA
Jensen LXA300: 43mA
Pioneer GMX602: 1.5mA
Autotek 7150: 16mA
Punch 200x2: 14-45mA
Autotek 200x1: 17mA
Coustic Amp162: 22mA
Orion 275SX: 28mA
Crossfire CFA1000D: 5mA
Lanzar Vibe 250: 17mA

 

phat04350z,,keep us posted on your results and how things turn out.
Good luck..

 

Where did you get this information? And just so things dont get twisted these millamps are very small.
1 amp (A) = 1000 milliamps (mA).

I believe cig lighter fuse is 3 or 5 amps. You could probably have 3 radar detectors and a turn on lead for an amp before it blew.

 

Oh yes, I was agreeing with you that the draw of an amp turn on is almost negligible, but the way I read you post was almost like you were saying there wasn't ANY draw....I could have misinterpreted what you were saying.

I got that info from my absolute favorite car electronics tutorial websites:
http://www.bcae1.com/

(scroll along the menu on the right to the section on "Amplifiers")