Need more BASS
#22
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I don't mean to bring up old posts (I hate it when people dig for ancient posts, but this one is only from the 16'th of this month), but may I add to the past 2-3 posts?
Boosting (using any + setting on the bass EQ) is only going to accentuate one range of frequencies (if you have a parametric feature to the EQ you're looking at a narrow boost to a wide boost depending on the Q that you select). In car audio - even if you have a massive suck-out that you think requires a boost is probably the result of phasing issues between your subwoofers and midbass (ie, if you have your subs wired out of phase with the rest of your system or vice-a-versa). Swapping the polarity of your subwoofers will usually solve the dip in the response.
If you decide to boost anything in the subwoofer region you're doing nothing but accentuating a particular frequency. Sure it might "hit" harder on certain songs, but if you do that you're also depriving yourself other frequencies with other songs. The ideal response is, of course, user-dependent. In a subwoofer system I like the highs (60-90'ish Hz) to be played just as loud as the lows (20-40 Hz). Achieving that goal means no EQ.
Also, make sure you have your gains set correctly.
If you were to ever look at the results of the Great 12 Challenge over on ROE, you'd see a massive difference in output and sound quality based off of doing nothing more than changing the driver being used. Same box, different sub. I believe we used ~23 different subwoofers. Some were geared towards SQ only, others towards SPL only, some were designed for big boxes, some for small boxes, and some just to hit a MSRP of $45. The differences in performance were impressive to say the least.
Having said all that, changing to a JL amp just because it's a JL amp isn't a good reason...especially if the other amp you are using has a reputation of delivering not only more, but cleaner, power. I don't know about the Kenwood line of amps, because I use nothing but Sundown amplifiers and have for years, but from the tests I've seen the JL's don't bench at 150% their rated power to warranty changing over.
So in short - kill the EQ boost and re-set your gains as a start. If not that, switch subs first and amplification second.
Boosting (using any + setting on the bass EQ) is only going to accentuate one range of frequencies (if you have a parametric feature to the EQ you're looking at a narrow boost to a wide boost depending on the Q that you select). In car audio - even if you have a massive suck-out that you think requires a boost is probably the result of phasing issues between your subwoofers and midbass (ie, if you have your subs wired out of phase with the rest of your system or vice-a-versa). Swapping the polarity of your subwoofers will usually solve the dip in the response.
If you decide to boost anything in the subwoofer region you're doing nothing but accentuating a particular frequency. Sure it might "hit" harder on certain songs, but if you do that you're also depriving yourself other frequencies with other songs. The ideal response is, of course, user-dependent. In a subwoofer system I like the highs (60-90'ish Hz) to be played just as loud as the lows (20-40 Hz). Achieving that goal means no EQ.
Also, make sure you have your gains set correctly.
If you were to ever look at the results of the Great 12 Challenge over on ROE, you'd see a massive difference in output and sound quality based off of doing nothing more than changing the driver being used. Same box, different sub. I believe we used ~23 different subwoofers. Some were geared towards SQ only, others towards SPL only, some were designed for big boxes, some for small boxes, and some just to hit a MSRP of $45. The differences in performance were impressive to say the least.
Having said all that, changing to a JL amp just because it's a JL amp isn't a good reason...especially if the other amp you are using has a reputation of delivering not only more, but cleaner, power. I don't know about the Kenwood line of amps, because I use nothing but Sundown amplifiers and have for years, but from the tests I've seen the JL's don't bench at 150% their rated power to warranty changing over.
So in short - kill the EQ boost and re-set your gains as a start. If not that, switch subs first and amplification second.
Last edited by Electrodynamic; 02-24-2008 at 02:35 PM.
#25
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damn...sorry been busy and not able to take pics but will before the weekend.
I wanted to thank everyone for their input
I wanted to thank everyone for their input
Last edited by Armando; 02-29-2008 at 03:12 PM.
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