Jokestrap

Agreed. I have a 10/w7 and its performance is excellent at all levels.

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

so i just did the math and i can run 1 w710 in my car for just $50 more than the 2 w3's,,, im pretty sure the w7 would sound infinately better

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

And for only $20 more that the 2 w3's, you can run an IDMax and crush the competition.

JL 10w3v3 = $190 each.....x2 = $380

JL 10w7 = $470

IDQ 10v2 = $160 each.....x2 = $320 (much better than the w3 IMHO)

IDQ 10v3 = $240 each.....x2 = $480 (much better than the w3 or w6 IMHO)

IDMax 10 = $400 (much better than the w3, w6 or w7 IMHO)


all prices from woofersetc.com

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

im getting the w7 for $330 with 2 year warranty


so even the new alpine type x 10's arnt very good??????????

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

doug

iTrader: (5)

JL Brand marketing at its finest.. making the finest sheep follow the flock

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

that came out wrong, i meant to say i CAN get it for 330. so that was more of a is the idmax really worth the extra 120 for the sub and having to buy a much more expensive amp when the w7 can run on the 500/1 perfectly?

350zspl

iTrader: (3)

i think in a sound quality set up the following woofers would be better

RD Audio Classic 10"
RE SX 10"
Sound Splinter RLI 10"
FI Q 10"
SSA Icon 10"
Ascendant Audio Arsenal 10"
Sundown Audio SD 10"
Digital Designs 9100C 10"
CDT SQ 1000 Gold 10"

i could go on and on and on

and nothing i recommended can be found at best buy , crutchfield, circuit city, or tweeters IMAGINE THAT

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

Ok, then I apologize for the horse pic....but i'll leave it up because I think it's funny

Well, a good place to start is.....how much power are you looking to run. 500rms to the sub(s) or 1000rms? This is the first step. To figure this out, you can use your front stage as a reference. How much power is going to your front stage?

Then, you said in your OP that you want a quality sub or subs, very understandable. Are you looking to SQ or SPL?

The answers to these two questions will help us provide you with a setup to suit your needs. Different manufacturers excel at different tasks. If you place your trust in some of the guys on this board, they will set you up with a very nice system that will make you feel funny in your nether regions and you will probably save money.

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

nah, i agree... i got a good chuckle out of it

i would rather run a 500 just to save on cost but if 1000 is needed for a proper setup then im not against it.

sorry im a noob, just got my z 2 weeks ago and i had a granny car before that so i have no idea what my front stage is

i want some loud *** bass with good quality at the same time, ive heard too many systems that were loud as hell but sounded like crap and dont want to wind up with that

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

OK, so you are probably running stock fronts with the stock headunit.......so 1000rms to 1 or 2 subs will be WAYYYY too much. If you plan to upgrade the fronts but are going to keep it modest and run tem at 100watts rms per channel then 500rms to the substage is sufficient. if you are going to push more than 100rms to each front channel then you might want to go 1000rms to the substage just so you have the overhead to crank it if needed.

If you are keeping stock speakers and headunit, you aren't too concerned about SQ, so you are basically looking for loud bass. Here is a setup that will give you what you want (SPL and SQ) in case you do upgrade the fronts in the future.....

Amp:
Crossfire XP600D
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=5815


Sub:
Audiopulse EPD210 EPIC 10"
Sealed enclosure: 0.5 - 1.2 ft³
Mounting depth: 5.62″
http://www.funkywaves.net/catalog.cfm?item=epic_10

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

i have a set of alpine type x 6.5" components out of my old car but i was under the impression you had to buy some $300 door pods just to install aftermarket speakers up front

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

NEED? - no. it is recommended to use door pods or kick panels for your components to get the best staging, but that holds true in ANY car. you could make the stock locations sound ok with a little modification. Tapered spacers and DIY modify the OEM grill and you could make the install sound pretty good. I would mount the tweeters somewhere other than the sail panels though.....like in the kicks.

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

so theres plenty of room for components? what about the crossovers, they are huge on the 1st gen type x components?

StreetOC192

iTrader: (7)

You will probably need spacers, but they can be easily made or readily purchased already made. As for the xovers, you can mount them anywhere they fit.....in kicks, under seats, in the glovebox or cubby.

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

any help on where to get the spacers? also are there any guides for taking apart door panels?

cbr900son

iTrader: (4)

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/26598-350z-how-to-s.html

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211939

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

most of those links are broken