I have the TS-D720C mounted with a combination of the supplied plastic pioneer spacer (probably 1/2 inch) on top of a 1/2 mdf spacer. With the extra gaskets it was well over an inch with room to spare for the door card.

It's not necessary, but I used the sound deadener to seal any air that would leak between the door and spacers.

You should be fine with a 1 inch spacer and a couple layers of dynamat (or fav. sound deadener) as a gasket.

 

Edead ftw man

 

That's what i used on the door.

 

Thanks for the additional advice. Curious to know if everyone in this thread ran their front speaker wires through the molex plug or if anyone tried to use the small rubber plug a little down and to the rear of the place were the molex plug goes into the chassis. Was reading in another forum that it could be a bit safer (less chance of damaging the plug or the BCM) and less time consuming to use this alternative.

 

I used the small rubber grommet. I had to drill a hole (partially just to make it easier, partially because I couldn't find a pass through) in the inside footwell panel to get the wire to where the grommet is. Used a zip tie to get the wire started through. I don't even notice the wire in my door jams. Its there...shrug.

 

MB Quart ESA-216 - 1" spacer





Or put in some midbass speakers and cut them off at 80hz.

 

got it! Thanks

 

I've never used any MMATS components, but I have had a Pro series sub and a Pro-Cast series sub and they are phenomenal. Lots of SPL trophies in that company's history and they are US based to boot. They are very hard to find depending on where you live, I would suggest going to their site and looking for a local dealer so you can hear them for yourself. But if they are anything like the quality of their subs, they should be awesome...

 

Used the small rubber plug with some silicon sealant. I don't think i'm losing any points at an audio car show anytime soon for exposing a speaker wire that is barely noticeable. No drilling...

Life is too short for the molex.

 

Thanks for the feedback on the front speaker wiring.

 

Has anyone had luck with the DLS MS6A components? I have been eyeing these for my upcoming audio build but this has thrown a flag Good information in this thread...hopefully everyone will keep updating it in the future

 

Trust me, I already went down that route... that is the reason I started this thread. I ended up having to go with the UP6.

 

Bump , is this thread not stickied?

I was thinking of either getting some infinity components for the front but I actually wanted to get some kicker components and supplement the 6.5 mini woofer with kicker 6.5" CVT, the specs say they need 2 3/4 - 2 13/16 of clearence. I will be using an amp just for my speakers and another for my sub, does anyone know if im able to fit the CVT in the stock location with a spacer?????

 

Bump.

 

bump

 

This is a great thread, But I have to mention...

If you are trying to play all these speakers through the stock grilles, you are not doing yourself any favors... Stock grilles will only allow 40% off the sound through...

Please consider our DOOR PODS as an alternative install option. Not only it allows just about any speaker fitment, it also makes your speakers (any speakers) sound twice as good in the 350Z doors. Better imaging and Custom look.

 

Polk Audio MM 6501 (lightweight and compact, lighter than stock speakers)

- Fit without any spacers and will clear both side windows. (Tight fit but it will!)

- Installed using the brackets that comes with the speakers.

- One extra screw hole need to be drilled on each side ( 3 screw holes total), the other 2 fit perfectly

 

Sorry about this. I haven't checked this thread for a long time.

I have Alpine PDX 2.150 and PDX 1.600. And yes you can get get 1" spacer instead using stock speakers.

 

Thanks! Added to the list.

 

Is there any way to get better sound imaging while still using the stock grille?(aka without pods) I'm about to put some Focal 165VRs in my Z and i really would like to get them facing at an upwardsish angle instead of at the floor. I was thinking about trying a zenclosure type spacer but a little thicker mdf and angle one side a bit to get the speaker to aim up slightly. It works in my head but it would all depend on how much space i have between the speaker and the grille. Tilting the speaker slightly would make the front to back distance of the speaker greater so i would need enough space between the grille and the window essentially.

If i'm confusing anyone tell me and i'll draw a picture.

The other option which is slightly the same.. is to get some thicker uneven dowels and cut the ends at a small angle to create an angled seat for the speakers. (again, if confused i'll draw a picture)

The Focal 165VR is a 6.5" speaker with a installation diameter of 5.55" and a mounting depth of 2.20" if anyone is craftier than me and can figure this out.