Escort ZR3 Installation
... Any specific questions?
07-13-2003, 08:02 PM
#4
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No cool tricks really..
There is a large gromet in the battery Compartment. You need to remove all the plastic that covers it up which is not hard at all.
Im the rear use a gromet that is used for the Tail lights.. the one I used was on the drivers side and I am not sure if there is one on the other side.
Run it throught the car.
~ From the rear I removed the center rear pannel then progressively removed pannels and pulled everything through till It was in the front of the car.
~In the front you should be able to grab it and pull it to where you want it. It will be endup on the passangerside far left against the firewall around where the ECU is
I placed the control box in the rear of the center consoule close to the firewall. I jsut used HU wires for power.
I used Cable Ties to keep everything tight and held in place.. I think it comes with a few and you will probably want to go ahead and get more from Home Depot/Lowes They are cheep and useful to help guide the wires and cut down on clutter.
Pics.. not labled but you can get some ideas
http://www.350zfrenzy.com/gallery/sh...er=287&thumb=1
There is a large gromet in the battery Compartment. You need to remove all the plastic that covers it up which is not hard at all.
Im the rear use a gromet that is used for the Tail lights.. the one I used was on the drivers side and I am not sure if there is one on the other side.
Run it throught the car.
~ From the rear I removed the center rear pannel then progressively removed pannels and pulled everything through till It was in the front of the car.
~In the front you should be able to grab it and pull it to where you want it. It will be endup on the passangerside far left against the firewall around where the ECU is
I placed the control box in the rear of the center consoule close to the firewall. I jsut used HU wires for power.
I used Cable Ties to keep everything tight and held in place.. I think it comes with a few and you will probably want to go ahead and get more from Home Depot/Lowes They are cheep and useful to help guide the wires and cut down on clutter.
Pics.. not labled but you can get some ideas
http://www.350zfrenzy.com/gallery/sh...er=287&thumb=1
09-01-2003, 06:57 PM
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Thanks for all the posts. Here’s the Escort ZR3 laser shifter and 8500 radar detector install for my G35C that should also be helpful for the Z. I’ll start out by saying that this was about an 8 hour job. My guess is that with these instructions it will go faster for the next person. I spent quite a bit of time checking out all the details prior to routing cable and was very cautious opening up the body panels and taking off the glove box. In hindsight the snap on fasteners and screws were very easy as were the body panels with the exception of the panel in the rear seat which I decided to avoid removing. Make sure you test the devices prior to wiring to be sure that they make it through the self test correctly. Also make sure that you are very careful not to break the clear plastic connectors at the cable ends as your route the cables.
Just jump in and do it!
Here's a link to a large pic of the install steps: Large Pic of Install Steps
1. I decided to make my own mounting brackets since the ones that Escort supplied seemed to be a little too easy to bend. I wanted a good solid connection that wouldn’t move around. My guess is that the brackets that they supplied would work just fine and that I over engineered this part. Anyway I used 1/4 inch steel from Home Depot and used a hacksaw, vise and grinding wheel to build the bracket to the same dimensions as the Escort provided bracket.
2. This is a picture of the bracket with front laser shifter.
3. Remove the screws from the bottom of the car just under the front bumper. Be sure to remove the screws in the front rather than part of the way back on the plastic liner.
4. This is a picture of the liner under the front bumper with the screws removed. I decided to work without removing it completely and used a foam pad to hold it open enough to get my arms behind the lower black grills in picture 6.
5. Notice that the laser shifter cable is not centered top to bottom. This comes in handy for mounting without kinking the cable.
6. I decide to mount the laser shifter in the lower black grill to the right and left of the license plate. This is a pretty level location and gives a slight angle to either side which should be advantageous if you are being clocked from the side of the road. Another factor in choosing this location was that I couldn’t bring myself to modify the main grill although this is also a good location if you do a little alteration to the main grill. I test mounted the bracket and used a permanent marker to mark the bracket where the best fit was. I mounted in the top row of the diamond mesh three over from the inside edge. This works well for the cable routing if you place the offset cable exit at the bottom as shown in picture 5. I drilled the holes in the brackets and use the provided screws and nuts to mount it permanently, one for each grill.
7. Route the cables up to the other electrical cables and use zip ties to securely fasten then as you route the cable to the passenger side of the car.
8. Remove the antifreeze container by using a screw driver to pry up the center of the black snap on fastener. Once you figure out one of these fasteners the rest will go quickly.
9. Remove the plastic just over the main grill by removing the snap on fasteners. This will give you a clear view and working room to route the cable through to the engine compartment.
9.5 This picture shows where you route the cables into the engine compartment. I decided to use the rubber plugs at this location since there was no need to drill the firewall. I routed the cables along the passenger’s side to the battery enclosure.
10. The plastic battery cover comes off easily by removing the snap on fasteners. You will also need to remove the plastic cover next to the window to gain access to the main wire bundle that goes through the firewall. Again all you do is remove the snap on fasteners and swing the plastic forward to disengage it from the piece of plastic that covers the drivers side.
11. Route the cable through the battery compartment and up to the firewall wire bundle boot shown in picture 12.
12. OK here’s the part where you need to be careful. With a razor blade, cut a small slice vertically in the firewall wire bundle boot and push the two cables through. Be very careful not to cut the wires inside and only make the cut long enough to insert the cable. You could also take the route of trying to unwrap the end of the boot and route it that way but it didn’t look very feasible.
13. Now that the cables are inside the car it’s time to start taking interior panels off. The black plastic shield for the fan just under the glove box comes off very easily. Just pull down on either side in the front and then pull forward and set it out of the way.
14. Now comes the fun part. Start unscrewing the glove box (see FAQ for more detail if needed). This is also pretty easy to remove, just be careful not to damage the connected wires. I left them connected since I didn’t need to leave the glove box down for much of the install.
15. This is a picture looking up to the wire bundle entry into the interior of the car. Just pull the wires through carefully and then go back to the firewall boot where you made the cut and add a bit of silicone caulk and then use electrical tape to cover the boot and completely seal any moisture out.
16. Remove the small side panel so that you can route all of the wire.
17. Remove the panel that contains the passenger side lighter and use a splice connector to tap the power for the main ZR3 connector. Black is negative (common) so match black wire to black wire.
18. Remount the lighter panel and the glove box.
19 Route the cables around the back of the fan enclosure and over to the area just above the foot vent in picture 20. Use zip ties to secure the cables, bundle the extra cable and zip tie it up near the other cables above the foot vent. Reinstall the plastic cover under the dash.
20. Here’s where I mounted the ZR3 connector. If you’re only going to use the ZR3 then you need to route cables to the ZR3 display and mute button.
21. I routed the Escort 8500 connector cable up to my 8500 just to the right of the rear view mirror. I just used a credit card to work it into the headliner between the passenger window and the front window.
22. Again use the credit card to tuck the cable in-between the front window and the headliner.
23. Here’s a shot of the front installation.
24. Here’s a shot of the passenger side installation.
25. Here’s a side view of the front installation.
26. The rear installation goes pretty quickly. Remove the liner along the rear of the trunk by removing the snap fasteners.
27. There is a cable route into the trunk above the license plate on the drives side of the car. This picture shows that route with the license plate removed.
28. Make a small slice in the boot and route the cable through to the interior of the trunk. This one will seal up with electrical tape. I left the rubber plug on the wire outside of the boot just above the license plate since I didn’t have to drill a hole.
29. Pull the tire and the jack holder and route the cable to the passenger side of the trunk with the other cable bundles.
30. Take the side panel off by removing the snap connectors and route the wire along the passenger side of the trunk.
31. Continue to route the cable up and through to the interior of the car using zip ties to secure to the existing wire bundle. I set the rear seat down to make it easy to route the cable from the trunk into the interior of the car.
32. I just pulled up the back the panel where the wire enters the car a little bit and pulled the cable through. I then routed it down to the seat and behind the safety belt.
33. Push the cable down between the seat and the read side panel to the door.
34. Pull the plastic guard along the passenger door and route the cable around the plastic connectors. Be sure to avoid getting the cable crushed in the plastic connectors. Go to one side or the other of them and then reinstall the plastic guard along the passenger door.
35. Route the cable back to the front of the door and route the cable around the rear of the fan housing with the other cables.
36. Here’s the rear laser shifter shot.
Put all the panels back on and You’re Done!
Just jump in and do it!
Here's a link to a large pic of the install steps: Large Pic of Install Steps
1. I decided to make my own mounting brackets since the ones that Escort supplied seemed to be a little too easy to bend. I wanted a good solid connection that wouldn’t move around. My guess is that the brackets that they supplied would work just fine and that I over engineered this part. Anyway I used 1/4 inch steel from Home Depot and used a hacksaw, vise and grinding wheel to build the bracket to the same dimensions as the Escort provided bracket.
2. This is a picture of the bracket with front laser shifter.
3. Remove the screws from the bottom of the car just under the front bumper. Be sure to remove the screws in the front rather than part of the way back on the plastic liner.
4. This is a picture of the liner under the front bumper with the screws removed. I decided to work without removing it completely and used a foam pad to hold it open enough to get my arms behind the lower black grills in picture 6.
5. Notice that the laser shifter cable is not centered top to bottom. This comes in handy for mounting without kinking the cable.
6. I decide to mount the laser shifter in the lower black grill to the right and left of the license plate. This is a pretty level location and gives a slight angle to either side which should be advantageous if you are being clocked from the side of the road. Another factor in choosing this location was that I couldn’t bring myself to modify the main grill although this is also a good location if you do a little alteration to the main grill. I test mounted the bracket and used a permanent marker to mark the bracket where the best fit was. I mounted in the top row of the diamond mesh three over from the inside edge. This works well for the cable routing if you place the offset cable exit at the bottom as shown in picture 5. I drilled the holes in the brackets and use the provided screws and nuts to mount it permanently, one for each grill.
7. Route the cables up to the other electrical cables and use zip ties to securely fasten then as you route the cable to the passenger side of the car.
8. Remove the antifreeze container by using a screw driver to pry up the center of the black snap on fastener. Once you figure out one of these fasteners the rest will go quickly.
9. Remove the plastic just over the main grill by removing the snap on fasteners. This will give you a clear view and working room to route the cable through to the engine compartment.
9.5 This picture shows where you route the cables into the engine compartment. I decided to use the rubber plugs at this location since there was no need to drill the firewall. I routed the cables along the passenger’s side to the battery enclosure.
10. The plastic battery cover comes off easily by removing the snap on fasteners. You will also need to remove the plastic cover next to the window to gain access to the main wire bundle that goes through the firewall. Again all you do is remove the snap on fasteners and swing the plastic forward to disengage it from the piece of plastic that covers the drivers side.
11. Route the cable through the battery compartment and up to the firewall wire bundle boot shown in picture 12.
12. OK here’s the part where you need to be careful. With a razor blade, cut a small slice vertically in the firewall wire bundle boot and push the two cables through. Be very careful not to cut the wires inside and only make the cut long enough to insert the cable. You could also take the route of trying to unwrap the end of the boot and route it that way but it didn’t look very feasible.
13. Now that the cables are inside the car it’s time to start taking interior panels off. The black plastic shield for the fan just under the glove box comes off very easily. Just pull down on either side in the front and then pull forward and set it out of the way.
14. Now comes the fun part. Start unscrewing the glove box (see FAQ for more detail if needed). This is also pretty easy to remove, just be careful not to damage the connected wires. I left them connected since I didn’t need to leave the glove box down for much of the install.
15. This is a picture looking up to the wire bundle entry into the interior of the car. Just pull the wires through carefully and then go back to the firewall boot where you made the cut and add a bit of silicone caulk and then use electrical tape to cover the boot and completely seal any moisture out.
16. Remove the small side panel so that you can route all of the wire.
17. Remove the panel that contains the passenger side lighter and use a splice connector to tap the power for the main ZR3 connector. Black is negative (common) so match black wire to black wire.
18. Remount the lighter panel and the glove box.
19 Route the cables around the back of the fan enclosure and over to the area just above the foot vent in picture 20. Use zip ties to secure the cables, bundle the extra cable and zip tie it up near the other cables above the foot vent. Reinstall the plastic cover under the dash.
20. Here’s where I mounted the ZR3 connector. If you’re only going to use the ZR3 then you need to route cables to the ZR3 display and mute button.
21. I routed the Escort 8500 connector cable up to my 8500 just to the right of the rear view mirror. I just used a credit card to work it into the headliner between the passenger window and the front window.
22. Again use the credit card to tuck the cable in-between the front window and the headliner.
23. Here’s a shot of the front installation.
24. Here’s a shot of the passenger side installation.
25. Here’s a side view of the front installation.
26. The rear installation goes pretty quickly. Remove the liner along the rear of the trunk by removing the snap fasteners.
27. There is a cable route into the trunk above the license plate on the drives side of the car. This picture shows that route with the license plate removed.
28. Make a small slice in the boot and route the cable through to the interior of the trunk. This one will seal up with electrical tape. I left the rubber plug on the wire outside of the boot just above the license plate since I didn’t have to drill a hole.
29. Pull the tire and the jack holder and route the cable to the passenger side of the trunk with the other cable bundles.
30. Take the side panel off by removing the snap connectors and route the wire along the passenger side of the trunk.
31. Continue to route the cable up and through to the interior of the car using zip ties to secure to the existing wire bundle. I set the rear seat down to make it easy to route the cable from the trunk into the interior of the car.
32. I just pulled up the back the panel where the wire enters the car a little bit and pulled the cable through. I then routed it down to the seat and behind the safety belt.
33. Push the cable down between the seat and the read side panel to the door.
34. Pull the plastic guard along the passenger door and route the cable around the plastic connectors. Be sure to avoid getting the cable crushed in the plastic connectors. Go to one side or the other of them and then reinstall the plastic guard along the passenger door.
35. Route the cable back to the front of the door and route the cable around the rear of the fan housing with the other cables.
36. Here’s the rear laser shifter shot.
Put all the panels back on and You’re Done!
09-03-2003, 01:39 PM
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I have a VAL1 with remote display set up in mine now. How does the ZR3 and 8500 work together? Is all info going to the 8500 display? What does the ZR3 display look like and where is it mounted?
What has your experience been like using that setup? Has it warned you of lidar yet?
What has your experience been like using that setup? Has it warned you of lidar yet?
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09-03-2003, 01:56 PM
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I have a VAL1 with remote display set up in mine now. How does the ZR3 and 8500 work together? Is all info going to the 8500 display? What does the ZR3 display look like and where is it mounted?
What has your experience been like using that setup? Has it warned you of lidar yet?
What has your experience been like using that setup? Has it warned you of lidar yet?
09-03-2003, 07:19 PM
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know you weren't asking me but figured i'd answer. i had my zr3 and 8500 installed w/ the 8500 on the windshield and the wire ran up the rearview mirror bar, behind the interior down to the zr3. the zr3 is in the compartment above the stereo. the 8500 plugs into the zr3 through the power plug. all the read out comes from the 8500. when the 8500 boots up it does the usual diag and then flashes "ZR3". when the zr3 jamms, the 8500 will say "F Jamming" or "B Jamming" (Front or Back) and there is not a peep out of the zr3 itself. so what i might do in the future is have my zr3 readout mounted behind the dash cuz w/ all display through the 8500, there is no reason to even see the zr3 except to turn it on and off. but with the ignition cutting power when i shut off the car, i just leave it on. if you shut off the 8500, the zr3 will notice it, run another diag, and then display everything by itself as if there is no 8500 connected. there are ir sensors around a fence where i work. the zr3 will sense them, jam and the readout comes through the 8500 just fine. hope this helps.
:icon 34:
:icon 34:
09-03-2003, 08:30 PM
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Thanks for that info!
I have the Nav system so would have to find an alternate site for the ZR3.
Next question...anyone found an inexpensive source for these units?
I have the Nav system so would have to find an alternate site for the ZR3.
Next question...anyone found an inexpensive source for these units?
09-06-2003, 08:26 AM
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I bought my stuff at Car Toys. Not sure if you have that chain where you live. You can compare what companies charge at dealtime.com. do you like your nav system? I put an after market nav system in mine. had some minor problems at first but it is working perfectly right now.
09-06-2003, 03:08 PM
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Yea, the NAV is a great toy!! Has helped me find my way a number of times already, and it's really nice to not even care where you go cause you need only punch in home to get you back again!!
09-06-2003, 07:51 PM
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hell yeah, nav systems kick ***! i love mine. sux though, now i can't use a regular ol' map. i'm a monkey with it. had to use one today in my pop's car. i was lost. gettin too dependant on technology ya'know?
09-07-2003, 05:48 AM
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Paintballjunky which after market nav do you have, looking into getting one when my car arrives. Also if you are using it with the factory radio how compatible is it?
09-07-2003, 02:18 PM
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My setup is a KVT911DV (dvd, tv, satellite radio) head unit and a KNADV210 (navigation unit). both are kenwood products. if you can find a good installer, you will love it! now that i have had mine installed correctly, i don't know how i ever lived without it. the first 3 attempts at install were't done right. i would recommend that you seriously check out any installers credentials so as to avoid the nightmare that i just woke up from. the 911 has a pop out touch screen which the nav plugs into. the k911 is not compatible with the stock bose. so if your z is a touring or has the bose, it is not compatible. you could fm modulate the k911 into the bose. i tried this though and it sounded horrible. if you want to keep your stock stereo, then you can get the nav and simply buy a seperate screen for it to hook into. if you don't mind losing the stock, spring for the k911. it rox watching tv and dvd's in the Z. also, you can hook other things into the k911 like a PS2 for instance. hope this info helps.
09-15-2003, 04:12 PM
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paintballjunky and cincyspider,
Sorry I didn't get back into the conversation. One thing that I would add to the answer that paintballjunky posted is that you can do without the ZR3 display and just use the 8500 for all information. I didn't install the ZR3 display because it's redundant information.
Sorry I didn't get back into the conversation. One thing that I would add to the answer that paintballjunky posted is that you can do without the ZR3 display and just use the 8500 for all information. I didn't install the ZR3 display because it's redundant information.
09-15-2003, 09:48 PM
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so you don't need the zr3 face? i thought the 8500 hooked into it? hell, if i can take the zr3 hardware straight into the 8500 then i'll have the zr3 face taken out. thanx for the info
09-18-2003, 08:29 PM
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All you need is the black terminal (see step 20 in the pic) that everything plugs into but not the display. I never even tested the display for the ZR3 because I didn't want the extra lights, wire and noise. The guy at car toys confirmed that all I needed was the 8500 for the display.
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