how much?

 

I used a gallon in my car, it was the second layer above my aluminum sound deadening material with jute covering the whole shebang; my car is frikin' quiet now, (I also used about 40' of 1/4 felt tape to eliminate buzz and rattles) not to mention any radiant heat from the exhaust that used to get into the cabin is completely gone.

 

^ WOW THATS DEDICATION TO A JOB! I wish i had the time to tear my car apart and do it that well. I want to do under the carpet on the floorboard but kinda scared to start tearing things up like that. U just earned my respect after seeing thos pics!

 

Very nice, along the lines of what I am going to do, but I am going more extreme LOL. Im going to cover every square inch of the inside.

 

I think you would do well with the edead liquid.
No offense to the poster above, I don't understand why people do butyl deadener then go over it with liquid. They both are designed to do the same thing, just go several layers of liquid, then cover with edead V4 and you are money.

Then again, this is coming from the guy who didn't do any deadening.

 

;

 

Well, for three years I had nothing but the butyl deadener; so I am familiar with the road noise in my car with it. Then I added the liquid on top of that, which noticeably reduced the road noise I was hearing the prior three years of driving around only with the BD, (which was already quiet) so that layer added quite a bit more road noise proofing besides the BD alone.

Well, this wouldn't have worked for me, easily at least, because for three years my car has had been slathered in BD, so to pull that up so I could apply liquid then foam would have been ridiculous. My BD, liquid, and jute barrier work just fine.

 

I suspect you would have had similar results just adding another layer of butyl. Just my opinion.. like I said, I don't really have any personal experience with any of this stuff and you do.

Both liquid and butyl dampening of this time are mass-loading type, designed to lower the the resonance of whatever it is on. They both are designed to do the same thing.. so assuming you get a similar mass of whatever on your target panel, it is going to produce similar results, whether that is butyl, liquid, or some combination thereof.

The foams are designed to absorb higher frequency noise.

I have no doubts that your butyl/liquid/foam combination worked fantastically.

And again, not trying to step on your toes, just adding my $0.02.

 

Well, to be honest, "painting" this on is infinitely easier than measuring, cutting, rolling, and pressing pieces of BD in place. That is why I opted to add the liquid layer on top of the existing BD; again, convenience was the key for me when applying all this sound deadening. So, when all is said and done my car is ludicrously quiet now.

 

subscribing

 

well, I have decided on giving it a try.

Step 1: clean all metal in the inside of the car. (dash and everything is coming out, every inch of interior metal will be exposed.

Step 2: a coating of rust inhibitor

Step 3: 2 or 3 coats of E-Dead V3 Blue liquid sound deadening (once again, the entire inside of the car)

Step 4: still undetermined (dynamat type of material) (entire interior)

Step 5: Jute across the entire bottom section and behind plastic panels.

Step 6: Thin automotive foam

Step 7: Custom carpeting.

 

Wow big project, can't wait to see the final result on this. What closed cell foam are you going to use?

 

not sure yet. Im currently only working on steps 1 & 2 at the moment. Everything is out of the car and the steel brushing and cleaning is underway.

 

I've done several cars with the stick on type deadeners (fatmax and vmax) and the last car i did I used a liquid, cascade VB-1X shot from a gun. the result.... from now on I'll use the liquid where ever I can, it's just so much easier and cheaper.

the prep is basically the same you need to strip the car and wipe it down. from here is where the big time savings comes in. It takes me maybe 30-60 minutes to completly mask off the car with plastic and tape. then you shoot the car, it takes maybe 5 minutes to do the complete interior with one layer, come back 2 hours later shoot it again, do this 2 to 3 coats and you're done. Next day it's all dry and the interior is ready to go back in. In one weekend the entire car is done. With minimal labor.

Now when I used the stick on sheets, I'd be on my hands and knees for hours on end and at the end of it all I'd be all sore and my hands cut up and blistered. Not to mention it would usually take me several days to completly do an interior.

Spraying is the way to go, you get so much better coverage then the stick-ons, you can get the spray into all the little cracks where your hands would never fit.

 

Is it a good idea to install the audio hardware before all this sound proof or after? I'm imagining it would be easier to do the sound deadening first, and then do the audio install?

 

YUP, sound deadener first then wiring and then finaly components.

 

Does this E deadener smell? If it does I would imagine that the interior will smell for a while. Where are you guys picking this stuff up?

 

I second the notion of SS (Second Skin) products. In the 10+ years I've been in the car audio industry, SS deadening is the only product that has stood the test of time better than everything else I have used. I've used the ultra-cheap Peel-and-Seal that lasted a whopping 2 months in the NC heat to Raamat and even some ed deadener. Here is a link to an independent test of some ed deadener material. Visit the link for some food for thought before purchasing some ed material. It may be cheap, but it may perform cheap in the long run too.

 

USN HM 350Z how is the project coming along?

 

slowly at best. I still haven't started prepping the interior yet, everything is removed though.

I am working on lifting the Titan and lowering the Miata right now LOL. The Fairlady is last on the list at this moment, def a long term project car.