KManZ

iTrader: (8)

I can't seem to settle on my system I feel like the audio set up in a car is more of a modding addiction than anything else. I just finished installing new components and another amp, which took me WELL above what I had originally set out to spend It sounds great right now, but part of me knows that it can sound even better. Here is what I have in mind:

I currently have an Alpine PDX 4.150, a 4 channel amp which provides 150w RMS, and 300w for a subwoofer if you bridge 3 & 4. This is powering my front components (Polk SR6500s running passive crossovers) and my 10" sub.

My question is: will going active, running the components off of the 4 channel 150w amp, and installing a JL 250/1, sound all that much better? Will the 250/1 sound better than the bridged Alpine pushing 300w? They say that the JL 250/1 is actually underrated. Both amps are class D, if that makes any difference. Also, is 150w RMS too much power to be running to the tweets, or is the only danger from turning them up too loud?

I have already ordered the distribution block and wiring, and my Alpine 9887 has an active 3 way crossover built in, so I am ready to go there. Let me know if I am missing anything Thanks!

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

It will give you level of control and the ability with the Alpine to adjust the time alignment which I think would be the greatest advantage to going active in our cars...

How are you comps installed? Kick panels?

You only give the speakers as much power as you need. That is if you set the gains propperly with a multimeter and a test tone, you will be fine.

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

The components are installed in the stock location (I know ), in the "comp-axial" arrangement, which has the tweeter mounted on the woofer. http://www.polkaudio.com/images/car/...ode/sr6500.jpg I also cut the stock grills out, and it sounds great.

With my HU, I can also use the Imprint tuning kit, which samples the sound from different seating positions, and sets the time correction and crossovers for you. The good thing is, if I can get the system to sound better with me tuning it, I can turn off the Alpine Imprint and go with my settings.

Do you think the JL amp will make my sub sound that much better than using the Alpine amp in bridged mode?

Peteski

Going Active will most always sound better as with what Ahsmo said, you will have more control to tweek the sound to your liking, and not what the passovers give you.

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

Awesome! Thats good to hear! I am just worried about either A) Blowing my tweets on accident or B) it sounding worse than it does now, which you guys tell me won't be the case.

Peteski

Man did I say passovers? LOL You know I meant crossovers, my bad

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

I thought it was some leet term used by audiphiles: "passive" + "crossovers" = "passovers" That would make active crossovers "actovers" I guess...

I am starting to research what tuning I will need to do after I successfully switch over to active. There are a ton of variables and settings that will have me doing adjustments for a while... I just hope it doesn't sound like azz. Luckily though I can just switch over to the Imprint curves if things are sounding sh1tty.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

I would consider going with kick panels or pods before going active. The gains from those two options would far outweight the gains from going active. Having the tweeter in the woofer is great idea. Some high end home theater setups use it.

So, If I were you I do the following:

A. Order kick panels from Bing.

or

B. Order Door pods from Nazar. Seal the pods for better response.


Then, if this doesn't satisfy your quest for the ultimate in sound, bi-amp your crossovers. If you still don't feel like you are getting enough, go active.

In my opinion, going active should be the last thing.

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

I am reading a lot on DIYaudio.com about Active vs passive, and am thinking I may not see a gain which would definitely push me over the edge to go active. My system sounds great as is, but I just want to see how if it would sound better if I go active.

Kicks are on the list of "To-Buys" in the near future though

BlueBoxer

iTrader: (13)

Give your Polks time to break in before investing more money, my speakers took a good six months before they really started sounding good.

B5I8

iTrader: (1)

More power is better than not enough. To give you an idea, I run about 350W to each mid and about 125W to each tweeter and they're fine. As long as you set the gains properly and tune it, it should be fine. In fact ask Bing, he'll tell you that more power will not necessarily make your system louder, it'll make it more dynamic. The driver's will play without strain giving you a much fuller and better sound. If you're really serious about going active I suggest you get a good processor before anything. You'll want good x-over's, time alignment, EQ, and phase adjustment.

B5I8

iTrader: (1)

Also, I don't know how much better you can make your current setup sound, but if you invest in the right areas and do a good install the effects can be dramatic. My old setup compared to my new setup is like going from a boombox to a pre-amp/amp setup. The difference is night and day. I thought my old system sounded pretty good but my new system is hands down one of the best I've heard.

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I heard they require at least 36 hours of play before they break in. They sound phenomenal right now, can't wait for them to loosen up.


Thanks for the reassurance man Just making sure I don't fry my tweets. As for going active, I think I will wait a bit to gain more knowledge. I have all the equipment I need, just need to run another RCA cable and fab up an amp rack. As for a processor, I was going to use the internal 3-way active crossover that comes with my Alpine 9887.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

I hear ya man. Car audio can get addicting. You always to know how it would sound if you did *insert thing here* to your system.

I am just trying to stear you in the least expensive route. I have spent way more on my stereo than my turbo kit.

Look into setting your gains with a digital multimeter and a test tone. I think you will find that setting your gains correctly for the input signal from the head unit can help significantly.

If you want help with your set up or have any questions, the guys over here really like helping people: www.phoenixphorum.com

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

Great, thanks for the link! I definitely am going to look into getting a multimeter; already have the test tones, just really didn't know what to do with them.

Edit: lucky me, have one here at work I just grabbed I don't quite understand how to match the gain for the input signal... the how-To over on the link you provided me is sort of vague.
One thing that it says to do when starting to tune, is to turn you volume up until the amp clips... since I am running more power than the speakers are rated at, will I reach that clipping point without hurting them?

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

You do the tuning without your speakers plugged in.

Sin waves + speakers = burning

Peak350

iTrader: (6)

Normal music is just dynamic sin waves....

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

I think he means a sin wave test tone, which is a continuous tone vs. music which is constantly changing (dynamic). The continuous tone causes clipping, which indicates the speakers are being driven at their max, which over prolonged periods can burn the speakers out.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post14613048


Since we are updating the thread... I chose not to go active, and instead purchased another amp for my sub. My system sounds fantastic and I don't want to mess around with it anymore. I have the choice to go active whenever I choose, so I may experiment in the future, but for now, no.

350ZREDLINE

iTrader: (2)

Just to let you know, getting the car to sound just right with active CAN take time. You will have control of the gain for the mids and tweets separately, which can be good. But you will have to set them to the right spot to sound good to you... You also typically have a better chance of blowing your speakers if you are not careful with active (giving to much power, etc).

I would go for kick panels before I even bothered with active... or you can atleast cut out the factory speaker grill which half of it is not cut out...

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

I don't think I am going to bother with the trouble. All that matters is that it sounds good to me It'd really bum me out if I blew a speaker just messing around. As for cutting out the grill, already have done that The remaining trim ring w/ speaker cloth doesn't sit flush in the door though, so need to take a look at it the next time I drive her.