Ok, I have searched for about 2hrs or so and Im not getting the answers I need, so I apologise if this is redundent. If there is a link to these questions please redirect me!

I have a non-bose car, with P4000DVD HU.

1.) Is there a list of 10" subs that fit behind the seat where the bose sub goes; without cutting/custom doing anything? What's the max depth?

2.) If I dynomat that rear seat area can it help with the sound a bit? The main reason I am goin this way is because I don't want to show off my system.

3.) Crutchfield says Infinity Reference 6020cs will fit in the front, should I still get the Zenclosure spacers? 1"?

4.) Where is a good place to get good ground kits, amp power kits, wires, dynomat?



Thanks in advance guys, again sorry if this has been asked a billion times, redirect me .

 

Dealercostcaraudio.com has great prices as well as woofersetc.com
JL make a free air replacement for the Bose sub, I have no idea how it sounds but anything would be better than factory and JL is no sloutch at subs.
Yes dynamat will help....alot!
one of the previous foeum members was very successfull at installing a JL 10w6v2 in the stock location which is what I plan on doing untill I can figure out what sub box I want.
He seald the entire enclosure with dynamat extreme which I have already done as well.
and lastly, yes get the spacers from Zen, he makes quality stuff and they will only help over the plastic factory junk.
Hope this helps before the flamers jump in!

 

does the bose base sound that bad?

 

ITs better than no sub..... i went from having like a 1300 rms 12 inch sub to bose... so i miss it a lot. But like I said its better than nothing, but I can hop in my friends mustang or brothers maxima and his door speakers hit harder... Even my girls carolla /sigh. Someday when I get money im goin with 2 10's, i just miss the bass so much.

 

do think you guys think a 10w7 would fit?

 

A w7 is a high excursion, high end SPL woofer. You really want to use a woofer like that in a SERIOUS enclosure built to proper specs. I don't think that the steel in the Z is enough support for a heavy woofer like that..especially if you are running it on the kind of power that a sub like that needs. It would be possible, but you'd have a lot of custom work to deal with.. making a stronger mounting surface and somehow calculating the proper air space back in the 'hole' and fabricating somthing in there out of wood and fiberglass. Not somthing I'd imagine most normal people would want to take on.

 

So no ordinary 10in sub will fit? Why? Is it mounting or space?

 

whats the best 10" sub that will fit back their anyone know?

 

Ok, from what I am reseraching and finding out is that not many people go this route because the sub frame back there is an open air setup, which sounds very bad supposedly.

Any 10in free air sub should fit however, you can also load it with dynamat to try to 'limit' air flow.

This is why most go with the boxes/enclosures, etc.

Just a post for anyone searching in the future.

 

This is the route i think that i am going to go with also... so this is what i have found. You can put a decent JL 10 back there, but you would need to get a custom fiberglass box made. Which is not cheap but if you want your system to look somewhat stock that would be the way to go. I just had a local reputable stereo shop quote a price for me and the whole system (head unit, sub, amp, box, and labor) bouts $1400-$1500.

Car Toys said bout 1800 for same set up

 

After a weekend of cut-up fingers and lots of swearing, I finally got rid of my Bose (blows) speakers. Here's what I put in:

Front: Infinity Reference 6022is
Rear: Infinity Reference 6022i
Sub: Kicker Comp 07C104
Sub Amp: Kicker 08ZX3001 300-Watt Mono Subwoofer Amplifier

The difference is, to put it mildly, amazing. Between purchases at Amazon and Crutchfield, the entire set-up cost me under $350 including shipping. I had no problems using the factory amp for the 2-ohm front and rear Infinity speakers. Hooking up the Kicker Amp was a snap since I just connected it via a speaker-level input off the Bose sub amp.

I also added a uPAC iPod interface and did the firmware update to it so that it's not buggy anymore. My only complaint is that the volume is a bit low, so I'm trying to resolve that issue with the company.

Finally, I mounted and hardwired my Garmin Nuvi 760 into the cubby. I just purchased a $25 Garmin 12V power wire, cut off the plug and spliced the wire into the front power port along with a 3-amp inline fuse from Radio Shack.

Overall, I'm happy enough with this set-up to hang on to the factory stereo. The Bose speakers were so muddy-sounding that it was depressing. The Infinity speakers have a 3db treble gain switch, which I activated on the fronts, leaving the rears alone. Now the sound out of the factory head unit is nice and crisp and sounds more like a premium sound system should.

While I was doing all of this, I ripped out almost every interior panel and padded the plastic edges with black 3/8" insulation tape from Home Depot, which got rid of a lot of annoying rattles.

Now I'm very happy and very sore.

 

OMG if someone suggest another JL Sub i'm going for my wrists..

oh and people stop buying rear speakers.. they are a waste of money

 

You can't just say it's a waste of money and not tell us why!