I spoke to the PAC rep about hooking up the TR7. Its set up on default video bypass programming so all I needed to do was wire it in.

I did as he said. Red => switched 12v, Black => ground, Green => remote turn-on (blue/white), and White => ebrake wire (light green).

I put in a DVD but all I got was an error saying the movie can not play while in motion (wasnt moving). The ebrake was already up when I installed the head unit. Do I have to put it down then back up to trigger the module? But that would defeat the bypass.

Anyone have any ideas?

EDIT: i'd like to upload a picture but the forum isn't allowing me...

 

I remember reading about it somewhere. Do a search in the forum, if not google it, I believe it said to ground the ebrake cable coming from the unit. However, don't believe me, do a search first.

 

You have no idea how much I have already searched. All the answers point to wiring it the same way I have for head units that are not Alpine. Thank you though.

 

I had the same problem on my 4100... I put in the bypass switch to where the switch panel should be on the other model cars (I have the base, didn't need the other stuff). I had to turn on and off the car a few times and toggle the switch. Eventually I got it to work. It still works, unless I disconnect the battery, then I have to do it all over again ... When I get to working on my car again this weekend, I'll try and make a youtube video of it and post it on here.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks. I'm hoping I can figure it out before the weekend plans.

 

I'll try and hurry it up for ya. I have to do a lot of work on my car this weekend... New torque dampner, replacing my custom grounding kit, and clutch... I'll let you know when I post it. I have a partially finished DIY video of how to uninstall your stereo. If you subscribe, it'll tell you when I put up a new one. My name is the same on youtube... Hope you can toggle it!

 

I really do appreciate it

I just finished wiring in the subwoofer and amp. Going to put it all together again and make sure my grounds are better and move the ebrake down to see if it now only works with the ebrake down

 

I ended up ditching the TR7 and going with the relay bypass. Cheaper and easier. I'll just return the TR7 to Amazon.

Everything is running great, except the check engine light came on and the dash kit needs to be trimmed. What a pain installing a sub and headunit at the same time.

 

Haha yeah... Well, at least you got it installed. I didn't get around to making the video this weekend, I got extremely busy with work... I found that one of the best grounds is actually right behind (underneath) where your top gauges are. It will be a big screw with a bunch of copper wires and black wires going to it (electrical ground). From there, I just ran my switch all the way back down to the area where the switches on other models are. Sorry didn't get it up sooner. I'll have it done by this weekend.

 

Try resetting the car by taking off the negative battery terminal for about 30 minutes... This might solve your problem. If it continues to show up, go to an advanced auto, or autozone or what ever, and borrow their test equipment to find out what your fault code is

 

Ok so the ECU code was "a short or open circuit at the power terminal" according to Autozone. A little concern but not really. Made the trip home 4 hours.

Get home and the ECU code is gone but now the video doesn't work. Something tells me the relay bypass failed. I used a 30A relay from Autozone. Could the amperage be the issue?

I wired the relay according to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8HCcNy9QQQ
..except mine look more like attached picture.

Snowboarder, do I need to wire the grounds from the relay to its own chassis point?

EDIT: Now the sub stopped working but I figured out I was pressing the wrong button during the blue prompt screen (video works). Checking amp fuse later. This is frustrating.

 

Did you get all this fixed? It's a learning process!

Sorry it took so long to respond, I have had no time at all. I had to replace my clutch, engine torque damper, hoses, and fixed my parking brake bypass (re-installed, and changed position so that the underglow kit had a good contact point), as well as staying long hours at my job.

If you need more help please let me know, you can pm me, and I can hopefully give you some good advice.

 

Yes I figured it out thanks! I just used wire splices suited for smaller wire for a better contact. With the relay, it all worked out and I even saved some money by returning the TR7. On the other hand, I don't feel like the dash is closed back to factory position. It looks a little pushed out but I'm not sure what could be back there blocking it. I already trimmed the dash install kit.