I purchased two 10" Type R subs (swr-1042d) and made some custom boxes to to put in the glove box and the compartment behind the driver seat. I was wondering what amp would be best suited for running these subs? I was thinking about getting two Alpine M500 amps. Does anyone know if these will be good enough. From what I gathered i can either run 500 watts on 2 ohms or 3watts on 4 ohms. Is this correct?

 

Why run 2 amps for sub stage when you can run 1 since its not a lot of power anyway. I would of done things a little differently if i were you 1. Ditch the type r's not really made for a sealed enclosure and inst really made for what your using it for. 2. Run dvc 4 ohm subs run them in parallel to 1 ohm and get a 1 ohm stable amp this way you get the most out of your amp efficiently. You would be a lot happier with a pair of image dynamic subs a 4ch for your mids and highs and a mono for your sub stage

 

According to Alpine's site, each sub runs at 500w RMS. I recommend 1 Class D Mono amp, that provides 1000w RMS at 4 ohms, to power them. And your subs are rated at 4 ohms, so I suggest you wire them at 4 ohms.

I have 2 Type-R subs, (swr-1022d) and I've got a 2000w mono amp powering them. These subs are 2 ohm, and require 500w RMS. My amp puts out about 1100w RMS at 2 ohms, which is how I'm wired.

 

^^Why would he run them at 4 ohms he would need a very powerful amp that can provide power at that ohm load not to mention he would have to upgrade his electrical big time to support it also. The subs are in a sealed enclosure so with that power level and a weak electrical would equal toasted subs and a blown amp. Thats not an efficient way to power those subs especially in a sealed box

 

he wouldn't need to upgrade anything. all he needs is an amp that provides 1000w at 4 ohms. This would typically be a 2000w max amp, or around there. Wire the subs to the amp in a 4 ohm config... that's cake to do. You're only wiring the subs to the amp, not the rest of the car. How is it going to blow his subs and amp, if he's simply giving the subs what they require? If he were to wire them under 4 ohms, like at 1 ohm, as you stated you'd do, they'd have to be be severely under-powered to prevent blowing them.

Ok, let's go back to my config...

I have 2 Alpine Type-R subs that are similiar to his, but at 2 ohms (swr-1022d). They're mounted in a sealed box. Just like his, mine require 500w RMS power. I have a 2000w class-d mono amp (knock-off brand), which supplies 1100w RMS at 2 ohms. sited-note: If I wired my subs at 4 ohms, my amp still puts down 750w RMS. The subs will be slightly underpowered, but will still function in this config.

 

Running a 2000w amp ether at 1 ohm or 4 ohms on a stock electrical system( 110amp alt, 8 awg grounds, non agm batt) would be detrimental and would experience extreme voltage drop. An amp that is being insufficiently powered will blow in a matter of time and that all equates to blown subs. Since you mentioned your amp is a knock off brand I'd be surprised if its even putting out half of what it says it is as to why you can make those claims

More importantly whats the purpose in buying subs and configuring them in a way you have to buy a much larger amp to power them its wasted power, money and not to mention its insufficient. Why buy an amp that has to produce 1k at 4ohms when he could wire them at 1ohm and buy a 1k watt s at 1 ohm. Anything decent that can actually make that power is well over $700 opposed to buying a 1 ohm stable amp which he could buy for a couple hundred bucks.Thats not even considering the new batt, alty and wiring he would need to run such an amp.

So your saying a person can run a true 2000 watt rms on a 110 amp alt, 8 gauge grounds and a bs battery?

 

negative. I did not say a 2000w RMS amp. I said a 2000w MAX amp. there's a difference. the OP needs 1000w of constant power (RMS). A 2000w MAX amp can PEAK at 2000w for a short interval without damaging the amp. And yes, my amp actually is putting out the power it is advertising, and I have no voltage issues. I had it tested by a reputable car stereo shop on the island.

He has 2 500w RMS subs. 500 + 500 = 1000... He needs an amp that provides 1000w RMS to run the subs, optimally. that's why it is a 2000w MAX amp... Again, he only needs half that. and 1000w of RMS power @ 4 ohms, which is what the subs are stable at, IS NOT gonna hurt his electrical system at all. His subs are 4 ohm stable, so why run them anywhere else? If you do run them with less resistence, then that also means you run them with less power, otherwise risk blowing them.

Let's say you wire them at 1 ohm, and run 1000w RMS to them. How long is that gonna last? with that little resistence, you're feeding the power to the subs much faster than originally designed. What happens when you push something beyond it's normal operating conditions for too long? that's like taking the Z, removing the rev limiter, and trying to drive it at 9K rpm. Good luck with that.

 

Whaaaaat are you talking about lol? I cant believe your talking about max power who do you know in car audio that actually operates on MAX its a marketing # that actually means nothing.Real quality amps dont even use the ridiculous #. How are you possibly running a risk of blowing a type R by running it at optimal 1000 watts at 1 ohm exactly 500 + 500=1000 thats factory spec. There are several people running over 1k per sub on a type R under optimal conditions. A SUB CANNOT BE BLOWN BY BEING UNDER POWERED please do some research. No offense but you sound like one of those kids with their sony explode/pyle systems reading 5000 watts on the case and think their actually pumping out 5000 watts

Heres a 7 page thread backing up my claims on powering a type Rhttp://www.caraudio.com/forum/subwoo...ur-type-r.html

There are guys feeding over 1200 watts RMS to one sub. There are countless companies lethal injection, digital designs, dc, SSA, FI, AQ etc etc where more than 2x the power can be sent to their subs which is more than factory spec. Not MAX power Im talking rms lol

 

Backing up my claim on a sub cannot be blown by feeding it too little power. The only possible way it can be done is if the amps gains are set so high a clipped signal is being sent to the speaker but in no way is due to under powering the sub.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~74226~PN~1

 

I appreciate all of the feed back. I am not looking for any knock off brand items to run in my 350z. I also at the same time don't want to run something that will blow my subs up and fry the amp. I am just looking for something that will make it sound descent and not as if someone is trying to get out of the back of the car.

I picked the two Apline M500's because they were small enough to hide (the look I am going for) yet powerful enough from what I have read, to power the subs, for now at least, in a 2ohm configuation and sound half way descent. The only reason I didn't pick one big amp is because I don't want it sitting somewhere for the world to see and since I am occupying the glove box and stock location with a sub,i don't have the luxary of hiding an amp in either spot.

And for the record, I have heard Alpine Type R's before in a sealed box and they sound damn good, nice and crisp sound. For as long as have been looking into cars, Alpine has always been a name in the crowd of popular/reliable choices.

So i pose this questions since we some how got off topic, What amp are you guys running with your Type R (or equivalent) and are you impressed/disappionted with its performance (are others hearing your music or are others over powering your sound)?

Thomas

 

um. you might wanna go back and re-read what I said.

1. I said my system has a 200W MAX amp, running at 1100W RMS... Wow, I'm a kid with a 5000w amp, running at 5000w...

Besides, my knockoff amp is only temporary, until my MRP-M1000 gets here. But at least my setup is still working as designed, until my amp gets here.

2. So other people have run over 1K RMS to a type R. good for them. Running beyond the manufacturer's specs can be done. Never said it couldn't.

Optimal? give me a break. Show me how a 4-ohm stable amp can OPTIMALLY run at 1-ohm. That clearly is not optimal, if the sub was designed to run at 4 ohms. If that were optimal, why didn't the manufacturer design the sub to be stable at 1 ohm? Think about that for a minute.

And I'm done arguing actually. I came on here to try to help the OP pick an "optimal" solution for his setup, not get into a pissing contest with someone.


I was looking to just do a simple clean upgrade to my sound as well. Didn't wanna blow my hatch off or anything, just a nice upgrade.

And yes, Type-R's "sound damn good" in a sealed box, because they're designed for sealed or ported boxes.

When my package arrives, I'll be running an MRP-M1000. the knockoff was just to bide the time. it'll go up on ebay or something when I'm done.

Good luck

 

Right on, well post some pics after you get everything installed and I will do the same. I am pretty sure that the M500 will fit under the seats and crutchfield is saying that I can get an extended warrenty with the amp because I brought up the heat issue.

 

How is your continual power level lower than your max # lol. Did i ever say you said 5000 I said you sound LIKE because those are the only people that use max #'s. TYPE Rs sound damn good in a sealed enclosure thats a complete new one for me. Yes in your second post you referred to a 2000 max amp and that was what i was referring. In all my years of seeing amps bench tested ive never seen or heard one putting out a max # just a consistant power level at a certain voltage. Look in the back of any subwoofer manual a certain ohm sub can be safely wired in a multitude of ways.

 

Op sorry for taking over your post but I would stay away from crutchfield mainly because their markup was so high yes great customer service but at what cost. I dont remember exactly what it was but the new alpine amps had something wrong with them I would research before buying. Sundown, audioque, discus 1500 etc are much better amps and will last you for years

 

Running the two M500 is not a bad idea at all. It might not be the most cost effective, but you will be able to hide them much easier than one large amp. If you did want to go with one large amp, rockford makes a nice 1000w RMS amp that is one ohm stable, and as stated above, PDX 1000 is awesome and small. There is nothing wrong with wiring your subs down to one ohm if the amp you get is capable of handiling that low of an ohm load. When you do look for amps, you should never look at the max rating. Most of the RMS ratings now are regulated by CES. Also, the Type R subs should sound great in a sealed box, it will have a smoother frequency response than a ported box. The ported boxes sound good also but but usually have peak frequency and are not as clean sounding as a sealed enclosure.

 

Right on. I will post some pictures of the setup after I get everything installed. I also prefab some boxes that actually face the speaker forward instead of up in the cubby hole.