I live in Hawaii and the amount of vehicle theft here is ridiculous. I want to keep this a stealth system with the factory Clarion HU (no blose) on a 2004 base model. I listen mostly to rock/metal but also some rap/hip-hop, country, 80s, dance, etc. I prefer driving with the windows down as opposed to using A/C so I am seeking higher output than stock can provide. I just want louder, cleaner, fuller sound. I want to get every detail taken care of before ordering so my install is as smooth as possible. Gonna try to be short and sweet.

SPEAKERS (prefer around $200 but up to $300)

Will be mounting in stock locations (I have minimal workspace and tools). Would love to mount them in the kicks but no way can I pull off fiberglassing (any other ways to do this?) and I don't think I have the proper tools to want to attempt an A-pillar install (unless you can convince me why I should).

Considering either Polk DB6501 or Infinity Reference 6030CS (was originally thinking Alpine SPS-600C, would save having to mount crossovers). Thoughts on these pairs and if you've mounted what did you use for a spacer? Prefer input from those who have actually heard/installed said components. I've seen tons of people saying they are running these speakers but can't find out exactly how they mounted them.

Random list of others I may consider to compare to the above...focal A165 A1, Polk MM6501, Infinity Kappa 60.9cs, JL C2650, Boston Acoustics SC60.

The Polk DB6501 comparatively on paper seems like huge bang for the buck (great frequency range, power handling, efficiency), that's why they are atop my list. Any others in my price range and why would I want to consider them? And how have you mounted them?

AMP (up to $300, clean power is important!)

Thinking a 4-channel in the glove box, in the range of 70-100W x2 RMS @ 4 or 2 ohms depending on speaker impedance/power handling with 200-300W RMS bridged for sub. Looking for speaker level inputs as I'll be disconnecting the rear stock speakers & to avoid buying/using a LOC and running tons of RCA cables. Don't know if it fits but here's an example Bazooka MGA4150. Any recommendations about anything (placement, brand, output, input method, etc)?

I assume they make extenders for the rear speaker cables to reach. Anything out there reasonably priced that runs cool and fits my potential specs? Also a sub volume controller pod thingy would be a real bonus for inside the cabin.

SUBWOOFER

Considering using this MDF sealed box for blose factory compartment behind driver's seat from SRQ Customs and putting in an 8" or 10" with an RMS of 250-300W. Don't need major ghetto gangster thump just some nice lows with punch to fill out the sound.

Does anybody know if this can be inserted without removing the driver's seat? And if it will, can a spacer be used and still fit through the opening? The mounting depth is only 5.25" and a lot of 10" subs seem to be around 5.5-5.75" mounting depth. Recommendations on any good subs that might fit that box? It's a 0.66 cu. ft. The pictures show a port but I'm guessing that's where the speaker connector plate goes. I don't want anything in the hatchback.

Sound Dampening

I want to do the doors and behind the seats. I've seen a lot of names floating around (fat mat, dynamat, E-dead, etc). I assume they all use some form of adhesive to install, is it all relatively the same? Is there one that might be more cost effective than the others? If not is there one that is just plain better? Is this stuff a PITA to deal with? How much would you recommend purchasing to cover said locations?

Random Thoughts

Since it's useless to mount a sub behind the driver's seat without a box I was also considering the Infinity Basslink since I don't want massive bass. This would require getting a power distributor and switching over to a 2-channel amp to drive the components. Any thoughts on this? I've heard they are prone to malfunction and the basslink II was even discontinued. But it's just a thought at this point.

Also where do you connect the lead from the amp that tells it to power on with the radio on the stock Clarion HU? Did I miss a how-to somewhere?

Would it be worthwhile to do the stock speaker grill mod while I have everything torn apart?

What size speaker wire to go to components? 18, 20, 22? I'll go like 10 or 12 for the sub.

Thanks for reading!!

 

Hey man welcome to the forum. I'm a newer member as well.

I just answered another member's audio question and told him to change the head unit first especially if you want good sound quality. It will make all the difference in the world.

Here's my setup(might be a little out of context, I cut and pasted from last post)

Alpine 9833(old school 2003 vintage sound quality head unit)
purchased on ebay for $87 shipped. I have had at least 10 different head units and this one is the best I have ever had in terms of sound quality and sound shaping ability. WARNING: THE PARAMETRIC EQ AND CROSSOVERS BUILT IN TO THIS HEAD UNIT IS NOT FOR NOOBS.

Polk/momo 6.5" Component set(Discontinued but comparable to Polk's newer db components)found on craigslist brand new in box paid $100. Pretty good sound quality and these can handle loads of power. I have them hooked up to a four channel amp. Each channel is dedicated to it's own woofer/tweeter.

Alpine mrp-f300 4 channel(50x4watts rms@4ohms)Another craigslist find for $100 never used in new packaging never opened. Powers the Polk components with a dedicated channel for each woofer/tweeter.

Alpine PDX 1.600 Subwoofer Amp(600x1watts rms@2 or 4ohms)Yet another craigslist find for $100 used with a few scratches on the body but has been working fine for months. Hands down the best amp I ever owned. Very powerful and clean. Read reviews on this and get it!

Alpine Type R 10 inch Subwoofer(Can hanle 500watts rms)I have this mounted in a below the strut bar rear enclosure that I feel is a liitle small for this sub. Stole this guy off craigslist for $20! No issues with it and I've had it for 8 months.

I would say stay away away from those entry level Alpine components. I had them initially and they left a lot to be desired. Spend your money wisely. I have the Polk/momo setup and it took them a while to break in but I am happy with them until I decide to go super high end with maybe Focal Polyglass or maybe DLS?

If you go with Infinty, stay with Kappa components. Never heard JL components so I can't say. Anything Focal is good but they can get pricey.

Mounting the door speakers includes tearing apart the stock ones and using the rim of them as your base mounting point(cut out the cone and cut off the magnet and the plastic leading to the magnet and trim as needed for your chosen components). The bottom of the pillars by the windshield is supposedly the best place for tweeters regarding sound quality if not in the kicks. I have mine mounted in the stock locations with a lot of massaging using the time correction feature on my Alpine head unit. If not time corrected they can be harsh in that location and still are a little harsh to a point but not too bad.

Amplifier choice is tough but I would suggest getting 2. One dedicated for mid/high and a dedicated sub amp. Most 4 channel amps are just not built to handle bridging to a sub. It can be done but really not recommended. Do some more research here and choose your setup wisely with all your power needs and impedences in mind.

Ok. Sub in stock location behind driver's seat was what I had initially planned but research led to poor sound quality and very minimal space for a sub to do its job properly. I ended up doing the rear under strut bar enclosure and I'm happy with that. There are slim subs that need very minimal airspace to fit in that slim box for the stock sub location but are pricey and might still not give you what you're looking for. Tint the rear window and you can't see the sub box under the rear bar. It sits so flush that before I got my windows tinted you could barely notice it was there unless your nose was pressed up against the glass. And the box is a press fit that can be removed in a couple minutes. You could take it in the house with you every night if you wanted to.

I have no sound dampening products and the only vibration I have is the sunglass holder in the headliner. Very bassy music requires opening the holder to avoid the rattling sound..lol. My Top Speed 3" exhaust on the other hand rattles a few interior panels! Not sure what year yours is but the older cars will probably surface more rattles(mine is a 2007 base for reference).

Do the stock grill mod! These grills block a lot of sound. I bought grill cloth off ebay and it's an easy cover up for the mess after all the drilling.

For speaker wire I have 2 runs of 16 for each door and a 12 for my sub. For a good base to start from go to www.bcae1.com for starting points here.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Gene

 

WELCOME to the family!!!!!!!!!

SPEAKERS (prefer around $200 but up to $300)

I have a set of DynAudio 6.25" midwoofers w/ 1" tweeters. These are sound quality level (SPL) speakers. They are worth +$600 new, but you can get them on e-bay for ~$200- $300. IMHO these speakers are top quality!!!

BTW most people don't use the speakers behind the seats; I decided to put a second set of DynAudio's in and love it. I keep the volume lower on the second set to add fill.

AMP (up to $300, clean power is important!)

I swapped out an ARC Audio amp for a set of JL's (650/1 & 400/1). The JL's sound pretty good, but I miss my SQL ARC Audio amp!!


SUBWOOFER

WickedCas Audio has a subwoofer box for behind the drivers seat or glove box. I have their under their under the strut box w/ 3 JL W3's. IMO don't bother with the bass tube.

Here's a link:
http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...2&cat=8&page=1

Their description:

Enclsoure is designed to go behind the driver or passenger seats in the glove box area with the subs firing down. This will allow for the best bass response in the 350Z. Very nice addition to our 350Z Magic Box line, especially for the ZR / Roadster owners.
MOUNTING DEPTH NOW IS 5.93" And a little bit more for breathing.
YOU CAN NOW FIT A JL AUDIO 10W3v3. You can do BOTH enclosures on the driver and passenger sides for added bass response!
This box only weighs about 12-15 lbs.


Sound Dampening

Dynamat is a popular and pretty good choice. (BTW: If you need to buy LMK I have a huge roll and would hook you up.). Can't give an estimate of how much is needed.


FYI: If you search the audio section you will find a stealth mod that uses a cover for your H/U.

Thanks for joining!!


Good Luck!!!!!

 

hi, my 2006 350z stereo is knackered as the cd changer keeps working even though there are no cds in it. i located one in usa, paid and it arrived a couple of days ago but this one does not illuminate at night so i cant see whats happening to the tunes etc..., can i just buy a good quality, good value unit (touchscreen) that will just fit directly into the dash without extra kits etc..., if yes please recommend if i need a fitting kit where do i get one?

 

You will need a wiring kit and dash kit to fit an aftermarket stereo in the Z to do it right. You can find the stuff you need on ebay.

 

I would love a magic box but no way in hell am I paying $300 for a speaker box! That's why I went with the MDF alternative.


I may just take you up on this after I figure out how much I may need and what it goes for. Greatly appreciate the offer.

I must have missed that, thanks for the heads up. Definitely worth checking out.

So you are insinuating that the POLK DB5106 should be pretty badass? The specs on paper are really good especially for the price and that always makes you wonder...

Maybe I'll have to revisit the how-to's and thoroughly go through the steps. I'd probably have to drill out the sails anyway to make them fit so why not just drill the a-pillars instead I guess?

I know it's the better option but honestly I don't want the headache of install or cost associated with multiple amps

Again I know it's not the optimal choice but I seriously do not want anything exposed in the hatch and I'm not gonna eat the cost of tinting my windows just to hide them Also if people see me taking the subs in and out of my car that will give away that I have something to steal (I live in a condo complex).

I did see one that mounts under the flat portion of the hatchback in one of the rear corners that they match the carpeting to your interior color but I forget where. That one may have the ability to become generally invisible from outside the vehicle. Here it's a Zenclosure box http://www.zenclosures.com/PhotoGall...ductCode=Z110C. Would that be worlds better?

I think I will! Did you really notice a major difference? http://www.zenclosures.com/PhotoGall...ductCode=Z110C

Lots of good info there. Did a quick calculation and it looks like 16 is indeed the best way to go for the components since the cable has to be so long.

I don't need anything special, just a radio (don't play tapes/CDs/DVDs or want any kind of screen/NAV). I play all my music off my phone. I doubt they make something inexpensive with bluetooth in it. Right now I use an FM transmitter but maybe something with a 3.5mm connection could work.

Any idea if there's something less than $150 that rocks major ***?! I see most guys on here putting in HUs that cost $400+ and no way in hell am I gonna spend anywhere near that on a radio when I already have one :-P

 

I bought my girlfriend a Sony bt series head unit. It's bluetooth and has an audio plug. Not sure if it streams music but does have hands free calling. Found it like-new in the box on Craigslist for $100. New ones are like $2-300.

 

thanks for the advice regarding the wiring but what make and model stereo unit would you suggest that will work with the Bose system fitted to my car? I enquired locally and was told that if i fitted just anyone i would lose the sound quality from the speakers as the built in amp would not be powered. i would like a touchscreen version and would also like the illumination to be amber in keeping with the original lighting if possible. so if you know the make and model that will fit directly it would be fantastic.