Im doing this now and I was wondering, you used polyfill and filled the entire cavity behind where the speaker and amp sit( i mounded my amp to a foam board and then to wall inside the same compartment that the speaker goes.

Good or no good?

 

Looks great. Nice install.

Next week, I will be replacing the OEM sub with a SRQ enclosure. I have already prepared the wiring to area.

 

Should've at least moved it to the passenger side. I don't know how you guys can stand the rumbling from the sub right on the back.

Also, how can people stand having a cord run through the middle of the cabin!?

 

After going through the plethora of posts about installing an aftermarket sub in the stock location, I've decided to do the same (no custom box; sound-deaden the hell out of the enclosure) for my Roadster. I will likely use a slim subwoofer, though an installer has advised that enough sound-deadening will ensure that most other subwoofers will be fine.

My questions are:

Which subwoofer, if any, will allow fitment of the factory speaker cover after installation, if any? If there is no way to get the factory speaker cover to fit over an aftermarket subwoofer, how did you guys get around this? I've seen pictures of some of the work you guys have done to get around this. They look great but can you advise what specifically was done?

Other than the inside of the enclosure, where else should sound deadening be applied to eliminate all rattles?

What other fitment issues can I expect? I know that this depends on which make and model I use; are there models that are generally hassle-free in terms of fitment?

 

There is a metal bracket that mounts behind the speaker cover which the stock sub mounts too. It's a serious pain in the *** to install if it isn't already there but without that bracket, you won't be able to keep it behind the speaker cover. The other problem you will have is only the stock sub's screw mounts will line up with the bracket, so you'll need to tap new holes for an aftermarket sub. Nearly any sub mounted in the bracket will fit behind the stock speaker cover. Don't assume you don't already have this bracket, remove the solid plastic behind the seat and check for it. Even base models were equipped with the bracket before it was decided if the vehicle would have the upgraded Boses sub. Sound deadening is a "see how things go" type of situation. Find the rattles, fix. There is no cookie cutter approach unless you are going to do EVERYTHING under the plastics and headliner.

 

IMO it's better to just stick a powered sub in there and call it a day, I have a RF 8" in there sitting about 8" inside the hole. Stock bracket and grille in place, zero rattles. Used poly fill, boom mat and dyna liner in there.

 

Fun to see this ancient thread resurface - and convenient for me. I’ve been thinking that there’s a pretty big honking hole where the Bose sub goes, enough to fit a wide array of compact prefab boxes. I’m seriously considering just tossing one in there and putting the faceplate back over, instead of doing an elaborate form fitted box. Same idea as putting a powered sub in the hole, just one step more. Pretty much the same as this, actually:
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...l#post10989507

 

Eh, I like my stealth setup and it will never move lol. Still fired forward too.

 

Hey, what sub box model you got there?
thanks,
Al

 

Is that real carbon you have for those cubby doors, or is it vinyl?

 

The sub is the Rockford Fosgate PS-8 and that is Di-noc vinyl. I did way too many panels to do them in real carbon, and since nobody is behind the seats I decided to keep and real carbon up front lol. I have about 12 panels done in total.

 

Darkz03 is correct. It is very difficult fitting a custom SubW box in the compartment behind the driver or passenger seat. A powered SubW is a more reliable solution. If you prefer a ported SubW, use the Z's rear hatch-space (under the rear arch bar, a corner in rear hatch-space, or under the floor in the hatch-space).

 

what's the cu ft inside that rear sub area in a roadster. All I have found is sq ft so far.

 

Yours too!

 

Hi Dark. May I ask how did you attach the sub in there? Did you somehow attach it to the two little brackets that hang down from the top inside the enclosure? And what is the gray insulation-looking stuff that the sub sits on top of? Thanks!

 

Yes, the sub is attached to those brackets using stand-offs. There is screws that go through the sub and stand-offs, and into those brackets.
The mat is a insulating mat, don't remember the name but its from Dynamat IIRC.

 

I should know what a stand off is, but I do not. Do you mean a piece of metal that goes from the brackets that would then line up with the holes on the sub? And is it attached at the bottom in some way as well? Thanks very much for the reply.

 

A standoff is like a threaded sleeved spacer. Something like this:

 

Got it! Thanks very much for the picture, which helps a sometimes mechanically impaired guy like me. The powered sub I am going to use does not have the 4 mounting holes built in. It has mounting brackets which go in the center of the shorter sides and then just sit on the lip of the sub to hold it down. So if I want to have it fire forward like Dark's, I'd mount the sub to a piece of MDF or particle board, then I could drill through the board and mount the board to the brackets. I'm leaning more towards having it lay flat against the floor, again mounting the sub to a board, then mounting the board to the floor. I can see a couple of raised ridges in the metal back there where I could safely screw the board into into without penetrating into the fuel unit under the floor.

Thanks again for the responses, much appreciated!