looking for ported box pictures or ideas
#1
looking for ported box pictures or ideas
i am currently running 2 sundown sa-8's ported. i am looking to upgrade so i bought a fully loaded fi btl 12. i am curious how many cubes you guys have squeezed out of the rear hatch? any know what works best for port and speaker placement? like sub up port to the side or port and sub up? i am more of a spl guy, so i'm not looking for sealed boxes sound better comments or that's too much bass. i did do a search and didn't find to much since most go sealed in the tiny space we have in are 350z's. thanks in advance for the help.
#2
you are not gonna find a member with a ported enclosure who's concern is output
only me
you can get 3.25 net cu feet with a stripped to the sheet metal hatch , after sub & port displacement
it will be loudest sub up & port up
make an enclosure 30" x 18" x 15 "
btl face up
port either slot or aero with a 90 degree elbow ( port up )
use 3/4" mdf
x 2 baffle
with 1 each 12 " and roughly 3k to 4k watts with proper alt, and battery bank , and runs of 0 awg you can get real close to 150 db sealed up legal on the term lab, (147-148 db sealed up on the TL is possible with 1 12")
tuning no less than 40 hertz and you will peak at 45-50 hertz 3 second burts
only me
you can get 3.25 net cu feet with a stripped to the sheet metal hatch , after sub & port displacement
it will be loudest sub up & port up
make an enclosure 30" x 18" x 15 "
btl face up
port either slot or aero with a 90 degree elbow ( port up )
use 3/4" mdf
x 2 baffle
with 1 each 12 " and roughly 3k to 4k watts with proper alt, and battery bank , and runs of 0 awg you can get real close to 150 db sealed up legal on the term lab, (147-148 db sealed up on the TL is possible with 1 12")
tuning no less than 40 hertz and you will peak at 45-50 hertz 3 second burts
Last edited by 350zspl; 04-03-2011 at 08:27 AM.
#3
wow thanks for all the info but how the heck do i fit 15"in height? also doesn't that put the port very close to the hatch? enough room that it doesn't smother the port? do you have any pictures of your setup?
Last edited by My LT Won; 04-02-2011 at 02:17 PM.
#5
currently i am using a digital design 9515G 15" driver with a GP3000D-Pro on it, roughly 3500 watts, in 30" x 14.5 x 18.5 those are max externals , 3/4" mdf with x 2 baffle at 40 hertz , slot port , port & driver up, driver on passenger side , port on driver side
with 6 runs of 0 awg
and high output alternator
(stinger batt-roadkill-interconnects-power-ground-trigger-speaker)
with 6 runs of 0 awg
and high output alternator
(stinger batt-roadkill-interconnects-power-ground-trigger-speaker)
Last edited by 350zspl; 04-03-2011 at 08:30 AM.
#7
i built my box with 28w x 20d x 16h that will give you a little more cu.ft. to work with. but yes i stripped my trunk and ground off all the little studs or bolts in the back and cut out the spare tire bracket.
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#8
My dual 8's ported
2 JL 8w7's ported. 2.6 cubic foot fiber glass box. The box is stable and the subs hit hard and VERY clean. Run them on a JL HD750/1.
2 JL 8w7's ported. 2.6 cubic foot fiber glass box. The box is stable and the subs hit hard and VERY clean. Run them on a JL HD750/1.
#9
thanks for all the replies guys. im gonna have to strip my rear hatch part so i can fit a bigger box. whatdoes everyone preffer for port? i have two sundown sa-8's already sub up port to driver side. im looking for more output so im thinking sub up port up? also this is gonna be a fully loaded fi btl 12".
#10
I'm actually running two 15's firing out to the sides of the car, hence the needed 16' height I mentioned earler. Although I am not ported at the moment I built it to be ported up on the strut brace side of the box or towards the front of the car. I built it sealed just to test the sound with the subs firing in that direction and it sounded good that way so I just left it. But I also must give you a fair warning that if you build a box to the dimensions i mentioned earler that it is a tight squeeze to get the box in and even tighter trying to get it out. But to answer your question I would port up for sure but I am pleased with the sound of the out firing setup.
Last edited by ITSJ^Y; 04-05-2011 at 04:45 PM.
#11
I'm actually running two 15's firing out to the sides of the car, hence the needed 16' height I mentioned earler. Although I am not ported at the moment I built it to be ported up on the strut brace side of the box or towards the front of the car. I built it sealed just to test the sound with the subs firing in that direction and it sounded good that way so I just left it. But I also must give you a fair warning that if you build a box to the dimensions i mentioned earler that it is a tight squeeze to get the box in and even tighter trying to get it out. But to answer your question I would port up for sure but I am pleased with the sound of the out firing setup.
#12
and a short vid
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/e8GHdWgpQDI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
#13
audiopipe is low end IMO
and W7 is not high end IMO
if you have 2 each 15" drivers in your hatch and each require 3.5 net cubes than 2 require 7 net cubes ( and your at 4 cubes ) you box is to small
and they are not gonna load well
if you ever get your car on a term lab , with 2 15" sealed audiopipes being choked in that box off 1 each audiopipe ap1800
i doubt you would see 145 DB , i would guess you would see like 142
and W7 is not high end IMO
if you have 2 each 15" drivers in your hatch and each require 3.5 net cubes than 2 require 7 net cubes ( and your at 4 cubes ) you box is to small
and they are not gonna load well
if you ever get your car on a term lab , with 2 15" sealed audiopipes being choked in that box off 1 each audiopipe ap1800
i doubt you would see 145 DB , i would guess you would see like 142
Last edited by 350zspl; 04-06-2011 at 01:18 PM.
#14
audiopipe is low end IMO
and W7 is not high end IMO
if you have 2 each 15" drivers in your hatch and each require 3.5 net cubes than 2 require 7 net cubes ( and your at 4 cubes ) you box is to small
and they are not gonna load well
if you ever get your car on a term lab , with 2 15" sealed audiopipes being choked in that box off 1 each audiopipe ap1800
i doubt you would see 145 DB , i would guess you would see like 142
and W7 is not high end IMO
if you have 2 each 15" drivers in your hatch and each require 3.5 net cubes than 2 require 7 net cubes ( and your at 4 cubes ) you box is to small
and they are not gonna load well
if you ever get your car on a term lab , with 2 15" sealed audiopipes being choked in that box off 1 each audiopipe ap1800
i doubt you would see 145 DB , i would guess you would see like 142
And for those who doubt that there is enough room for two 15s in a Z here is a vid of 2 18s in a Z
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/dXgK_QN8CK4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
#17
[QUOTE=ITSJ^Y;9069964]As i said the interior of the box is designed to make the sub think it is in a bigger box. I have had the same setup in another car break 158dB and it wasn't pushed to its full potential, that was just at everyday listening levels. I hate when people think that the size of the box is 100% what determines the output, it isn't. It is the movement of the sound waves inside and outside of the box, thus a 4ft^3 box that is correctly designed 3ft^3 smaller than the recommended volume as mine is, can and does sound better and has more output than that 7ft^3 recommended box. Granted you may be correct that I may not be at those levels in my 350 it is the difference of the acoustics of the car but as I have not tested the output of these yet because they are still in the break in stage I cannot say for sure.
158 db in a 350z? or 158db in another car?
and was that a term lab score
i am hitting 158 on the audiocontrol now with 1 each 15"
but i only care about the term lab # , and that is 149 db
peace
158 db in a 350z? or 158db in another car?
and was that a term lab score
i am hitting 158 on the audiocontrol now with 1 each 15"
but i only care about the term lab # , and that is 149 db
peace
#18
158!!! I'm sorry but I call BS! That is a good accomplishment IF true
He Said in another at travis, and another reason I say ur bs is b you said a w7 is high end (spl), NOT, we all know w7 is a SQL sub, if I had to rank it I would put it in upper middle class... W7 is not a spl woofer, period! Its a all-around woofer ie. SQL
But surely the best "mainstream"
If anyone disagrees well srry but I OWN a 13w7 and YES it's in my Z
I'll post pics in a bit,
Op I would listen to Travis, he has a proven background, Also are you going to build the box urself or are you going TL have someone build it or what???
PLEASE make sure whoever builds the box, that its built right! You may have to play with numbers to get the right box and you night switch it up more than once, but its all on you, TRUSt me Ive heard some cars that I thought were LOuD as f'k but the TL said otherwise, ive also heard some that ive thought were not that loud and the TL said that **** was loud, so personally if your doing comps and ur going to be competing regularly then build it for that, but for my what's more important is that I'm happy and it's loud to me
DBS #'s for sound is like dyno #'s for ppl with fi, don't get me wrong bc I'm not saying they don't matter, bc it's a VeRY good measuring point, but like I said..... I've heard some setups that surprised everyone on the TL,
He Said in another at travis, and another reason I say ur bs is b you said a w7 is high end (spl), NOT, we all know w7 is a SQL sub, if I had to rank it I would put it in upper middle class... W7 is not a spl woofer, period! Its a all-around woofer ie. SQL
But surely the best "mainstream"
If anyone disagrees well srry but I OWN a 13w7 and YES it's in my Z
I'll post pics in a bit,
Op I would listen to Travis, he has a proven background, Also are you going to build the box urself or are you going TL have someone build it or what???
PLEASE make sure whoever builds the box, that its built right! You may have to play with numbers to get the right box and you night switch it up more than once, but its all on you, TRUSt me Ive heard some cars that I thought were LOuD as f'k but the TL said otherwise, ive also heard some that ive thought were not that loud and the TL said that **** was loud, so personally if your doing comps and ur going to be competing regularly then build it for that, but for my what's more important is that I'm happy and it's loud to me
DBS #'s for sound is like dyno #'s for ppl with fi, don't get me wrong bc I'm not saying they don't matter, bc it's a VeRY good measuring point, but like I said..... I've heard some setups that surprised everyone on the TL,
#19
i think that ideally for the 350z if you want to do comps with it , makes the most sense to have 2 enclosures , i box to fart a tone at comps tuned really high like 55-60 hertz , and a daily box for music tuned at 32-37
tuning really high like 60 and using 1 each 12" driver in like 2 cubes net after port & driver displacement , and throwing like 4000 watts at it, with driver & port up , this set up will load best and yeild over 150 db on the term lab, sensor on the windsheild . this also leaves room for batteries in the hatch
that will be about as loud as it gets in our cars
but a box like that though will score really high will sound like complete azz on music
tuning really high like 60 and using 1 each 12" driver in like 2 cubes net after port & driver displacement , and throwing like 4000 watts at it, with driver & port up , this set up will load best and yeild over 150 db on the term lab, sensor on the windsheild . this also leaves room for batteries in the hatch
that will be about as loud as it gets in our cars
but a box like that though will score really high will sound like complete azz on music
Last edited by 350zspl; 04-07-2011 at 08:02 AM.
#20