finding constant/switch power in doors
#2
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Not sure if it's possible to pick up constant/switched power source from the doors.
I guess you're trying to avoid running wires into your door to power up the wideband? There might not be another way.
I guess you're trying to avoid running wires into your door to power up the wideband? There might not be another way.
#3
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You could tap the red speaker wire I assume? Voltage will depend on watts going to it I believe.
#5
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There should be a constant power wire going in to the door for the windows. There should also be a RAP wire going in to the doors for the windows. My suggestion would be to drive a relay off of the RAP wire and run the constant power through the NO contacts of the relay to give you a high current RAP signal in the door.
However, it would probably be easier to just pull a true ignition source in to the door when you pull the wire for the wideband. You have to be careful with widebands, powering them with the car not running can damage them.
However, it would probably be easier to just pull a true ignition source in to the door when you pull the wire for the wideband. You have to be careful with widebands, powering them with the car not running can damage them.
#6
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OP, your best bet is going to be running your own wires. If you know what you are doing with a digital multi-meter, you can check the door wiring for constant and switched 12v, but I would not recommend it.
#7
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The best solution is to tap directly into the fuse panel to the constant 12V source with something like a Bussmann mini add-a-fuse (click to link) If you need to run it off a constant power source, you'll have to remove your fuse puller to make room for it (there's only one constant 12V and that's to the stereo and it runs at 10 amps). If you want a switched 12V source, tap into the power side mirror fuse (I think that's 5 amps). The Add-a-Fuse takes up to a 10 amp fuse for the new accessory.
Just be sure to get the positive wire on the correct side (best to test with a multimeter). I know that on a 2008, red wire on the Add-a-Fuse should be facing UP if you're connecting to the constant 12V and should be facing down if you're connecting to the switched (mirror) fuse.
Since the fuse panel is so close to your vent, so you can just drill trough the molex connector next to the fuse box that runs to the door with a straight Dremel cutting bit, pass the wire through the rubber harness protector and up to the vent area. It should work like a charm and should only take a few minutes.
Just be sure to get the positive wire on the correct side (best to test with a multimeter). I know that on a 2008, red wire on the Add-a-Fuse should be facing UP if you're connecting to the constant 12V and should be facing down if you're connecting to the switched (mirror) fuse.
Since the fuse panel is so close to your vent, so you can just drill trough the molex connector next to the fuse box that runs to the door with a straight Dremel cutting bit, pass the wire through the rubber harness protector and up to the vent area. It should work like a charm and should only take a few minutes.
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