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iTrader: (1)

So here's my setup --

H/U - Pioneer AppRadio
Front - Sound Ordnance P52
Rear - Boston Acoustic S65
Sub - 2x 8" JL Audio

I'm looking to improve the quality of my front and rear speakers, but stay in the $100-200 range for each (i.e. $1-200 for rears, $1-200 for fronts). My subs are obviously powered by an amp, but I'm not interested in buying a second amp for the speakers, so I'll have to find something that works well with the AppRadio H/U.

I don't really know anything about speakers or what types of specs to be looking for, but it looks like I'm going to want higher sensitivity speakers since my H/U probably doesn't produce enough power to run speakers in the 88dB range. Am I right in that assumption?

What are some things I should be looking for and/or what are some good speakers that I could get to improve the sound quality of my car? I'm not looking to win any competitions here, but I'd like something with a good mid-range and decent highs.

Looch

You're never really going to get what you want out of speakers unless you're powering them correctly. Spending $200 on a set of components without powering them correctly is only going to hurt them.

Where is your sub amp located?

scoobyrex247

iTrader: (7)

If you're dead set on not amplifying the in cabin speakers you should look into speakers that are not made of any sort of polyurethane or any composite of plastic.

Reason being is that that cone material requires more power to move and give you the nice response you want.

Look for the lowest power rms speaker you can find. Probably something in the 20 - 30 rms range and with the highest sensitivity rating, preferably 91 or above.. Whether or not you'll like the way they sound depends on what music you prefer and on their quality. But you will know that they are working at peak efficiency, which is what it seems you're asking about. Also try and listen to them first before you buy.

If I were you, I'd look into JVC lines of small footprint digital amps and rightfully power the in-cabin stuff you already have.

But where precisely does your current setup lack? What do you not like about it. Maybe look into pioneer auto-eq feature.

I run infinity kappa 62.9i. I run a similar deck to yours and these are non-amp'd. Right now they sound great because of auto eq but I have a really strong feeling they would sound really great if I had amp'd them. These kappa are a woven glass and not plastic.

So im actually selling my two 10s jl audio stealth box and using the same 4 ch. amp to power 4 cabin speakers. I think that will satisfy my listening preferences. Not that the stealthbox sounds "boomy" its really crisp and tight; however, I realized I'm not a bass crazy teen anymore.

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iTrader: (1)

It's behind the driver's seat in the unused glove compartment area. I didn't have a Bose factory set-up, so it's just in the unused space. It's being used to power both of the subs as it's just a 2 channel amp, so I'd probably need a new amp to get the speakers working well.

My reason for not wanting a second amp is simply that I don't know how to install them, so I'd have to pay a shop to put the second one in and wire everything up, which makes the cost of things shoot up real fast.

scooby - could you point me in the direction of the small digital amps you mentioned? I'm not sure what to look for on JVC's website.

orangeNblue

iTrader: (16)

hybrid audio makes a really good simple speaker

scoobyrex247

iTrader: (7)

http://mobile.jvc.com/product.jsp?mo...hId=144&page=3

but on second though they maybe overkill for door setups. They're small though. Maybe you should read up on how to install amps if you are good with your hands and inclined. I did my own first install and the only hold up was how to crimp really thick 4ga wire with a o-ring end terminal.

JMII

Why not just swap out the current amp for a 4 channel model. Run 2 channels in stereo to power the front speakers, then bridge the rear channels to the sub(s). Personally I would suggest using an amp on the separates up front but powering the rear speaker off the decks power to save some coin. This is setup I've used in most of my other vehicles and works really well. Figure 50-100 watts for the front separates, I've had good results with Polks MM line. Keep your current rear speakers, then spend that part of the budget on really good front components with separate crossovers and tweeters.

Rouse350z

iTrader: (1)

i tried out these cedarslink speakers and i put them side by side with alpine type r components and the cedarslinks shitted on them. and i got a 12 cedarslink sub and man it sounds so much better then the jl audio 12w6 i had

jennyzee

This speaker is what I have in my Z, it is built into the back of my Z and has given me the biggest bang for the buck so far. This speaker puts out a lot of bass, so much it actually moves my whole steering wheel up and down.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...mpaign=froogle

TinyCarBigMotor

SirMichael

iTrader: (1)

Ill be curious to see how your build turns out. I have been tossing around the AppRadio for a while now and I don't know I feel about only having one preamp output. If I did it I would just get a good set of components and rears and power them off an amp and skip out on the subs since there is only preamp. I have never really liked the sound of having subs with underpowered components.

JMII

If you get an active electronic crossover you can add sub outputs even with just one set of preouts off an radio. Such crossovers are cheap, like under $90. In fact some 4 channels amps have a setting for just this situation where the same signal is shared among all the channels. This way you can power your components up front plus a sub (or two).

mdcruz88

iTrader: (8)

Tweets - Vifa xt25 - ~$25/each
Mids - Silver Flutes - ~$30/each
Amp - Aura 4x50w - ~$100

If you're headunit doesn't have active crossovers, sometimes this Morel Maximo 6.5 will drop down to about $140.

Use the rest of the dough on some sound deadener and install parts.