so im drawing up the audio upgrade to my Z and so far ive got a 3sixty.3 pushing 3 amps with 1" A pillar tweets, 4" midbass kickpanels, 6.5 coaxial rears (for a complete freq coverage), and i was thinking about going with a set of kickers slim 8" woofers in the door pods or would a set of 6.5's do better?

im defiantly looking for a SQ oriented set up but would also like the ability to thow 800 watts of bass to rattle the mirror if i want.

 

Bigger is better, but you are probably going to run into fitment issues.

 

yes i was thinking this to. Has anybody done a 8" install with out a completly custom door skin? im pretty sure the size will fit from the pocket lip to door edge its just getting the magnet to fit with keeping the pod flush with the pocket lip.

 

Youd be better off with going with a midbass oriented driver like something from Dayton or Peerless than a kicker subwoofer. Lots of subs arent really made to play above 80 hz, and with a 3 way up front you kind of want an 8 incher that will play up to at least 200 hz. If you go with 8 inches in the doors (Bing has done it, somewhere on this site) you're gunna have to make custom pods obviously, and be prepared to deaden the hell out of the doors. We have a lot of terrible door-related rattles that a huge driver will only make worse.

You should also take advantage of the huge amount of cabin gain our cars have with a subwoofer in the back. Instead of trying to make your front stage SQ AND SPL, let it be pure SQ sex and then when you want let a sub in the back crank up to 11. You can rattle the car pretty hard with just 400 watts on a decent sub, let alone 800.

 

true true. ill be deadening the whole care and makeing pods for the 6.5's anyway but idk if i could fit an 8" my fab skills ant that good. lol so i think ill just stick with some 6.5s. thanks for the advice.

 

Maybe 7 inchers? Wee bit more output for you without making it all that different to make?

Or theres this, finally found it: https://my350z.com/forum/audio-build...s-we-have.html

 

yea now to just ship my door skins off to bing. lol

but back in reality i seen you have a nexus 7 in your Z how do you have it run? this build is centered around a galaxy tab as the source actually. no HU as you read.

 

Well, currently its having its screen replaced lol. I had it all ready to install in my garage, however my work bench was a mess and it was covered, and a hammer was set on top of it somewhat forcefully (not by me lol). The plan is to have it behind a 2003 slide up door cubby and be used for GPS and gauge readouts via Torque, not so much for music. It WILL be able to play music though from an Aux cord run from it to the rear of my HU, but I don't know if I'll actually like it for that purpose.

I don't know if I could handle just a tablet as a headunit. If it wasn't easily removable or syncable I would have an issue with it (which mine sort of isnt), and if it couldn't read from things like a flash drive (lots of tablets use USB for power, and have issues running as a host for usb). However I didn't want to rely on a HU either for things like Time alignment and EQ in case I wanted different options or inputs in the future, so I went with the outboard DSP.

 

ive been doing alot of looking it up and such and its possible i know but im just worried about heat. i know even in the shade of my cubby my phone still got way hot after an hour much less if its a good 95+ degree day outside. so im wondering if the tablet will be able to handle it?

it would be cool to kinda intergrate the tablet into the door so you can use it and still have the cubby but i havent figured out a powering source or such for that yet.

 

i wonder if a power mat type device would work? like the ones they use for cell phones and you just set them on the pad???

 

Huh? For the tablet in the door? Its the exact same, except you have to run the wire through the door sill somehow. Just hardwire a power line for it using a chopped 12v cigarette adapter, run it though to the door along with something for audio and done (Unless you're using USB for audio in which case it will probably charge it as well.)

Not sure why you would want to screw with some sort of power pad, or how a power pad that needs to be plugged in anyway would be better than running a wire, except for maybe because you want to be able to pass the tablet around or something.

 

no not putting the tablet in the car door. in the cubby hole door that flips up. but it would take some work to get it to flip still with the added weight. and i was talking for easy chargeing while its in the car so no battery usage issues just put the tablet in the slot and it will connect and charge and then pull it out and go.

 

has anybody ever used the CDT super 3.2 3 ways? they say will play down to 20hz and are a 2 ohm set up but at 800$ not something i want to take a gamble on being good or not ya know?

https://www.woofersetc.com/p-10255-s...er-system.aspx

 

Are you planning on not using a sub and that's why you want them to play so low? You should ask over on DIYmobileaudio, they'll be able to give you a better idea about those.

Also, why is 2 ohm important to you?

There are probably a lot better options for less money.

 

the 2 ohm is just so you can get more power to them.

and yes with this design they are geared towards not useing a sub woofer. thats there whole design logic behind them and with that being said you need the more power to them and so the need for 2 ohm.

i just dont know if they will work well enough to not need a sub. but if anybody has any hands on with them that could chime in

 

2 ohms doesn't mean you can put more power to them, it means less resistance so you amp puts out more power (not always a good thing). The amount of power you can put to them is based on their RMS rating whether that's 8/4/2 ohms.

For example my front stage gets about 240 watts RMS per side, even though all the speakers are 4 ohms VCs. Unfortunately those CDTs are a set and they don't tell you everything about each driver. The sensitivity is somewhat low, the Fs is 42 which means if you have them playing down to 20hz you're going to see a fat spike around that 42hz number (or at least that's how I understand it).

I don't know if you saw it, but its actually a bi-ampable crossover. Really what youre doing when you run it at 2 ohms is running each set of 4ohm setups in parallell. This gives you a TON of options. It would be cool to get 2 fatty four channels, bridge them both to two channels, and run one on each side! You could probably get some crazy power out of something like that without running your amps down to 2 ohms.