I'm struggling trying to find good quality component 6.5" component speakers with 3/4" tweeters to put in the stock locations that will FIT in the 350Z.

These need to be fantastic speakers as I'm disconnecting the rear,.. they will be my mids and highs (I'm running an 8" sub with it). And running an amp capable of at least 100watts RMS per speaker (to give you an idea of what I'm working with).

I've heard good things about CDT. But which one?

I've basically heard/read go with Silk tweeters,.. so they aren't harsh.

Can anyone recommend the right CDT component set that runs around 100watts RMS per speaker (give or take) for my front stage?

Budget on the speakers is between $120-$200 (for the pair).

Other brands are fine,.. I'm just trying to find a surefire solution for the fronts that will fit using the stock speakers cut out as the mounting spacer,.. and will not sound too harsh, and in that midrange price I have.

I've also heard to stay away from Aluminum tweeters, and the hard dome MB Quart tweeters. So you can see how these things are really honing it down to quite specific speakers.

My max budget for the entire system is $1000,.. I have a great headunit already.. so essentially I'm buying a component front set, sub box, sub,.. wiring kit (or having it prof. installed). I do NOT have to spend $1000, the cheaper the better, but want quality of course.

Without exact specs on the 350Z mounting depth.. I can't really pick speakers very easily,.. you guys have installed plenty of front components, what do you recommend? CDT seems to be the best speaker for the money at the current time, agree?

Thanks,

 

This is what I have in the Z.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-7048-slc...nt-system.aspx

I had to use 1" of spacing to just barely clear the window. So about 62mm is as much mounting depth as you get unless you use something with a small diameter motor.

My Shok Industries mids will not fit

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10234-cl...-speakers.aspx

Those look decent. The tweets are 1" but you might be able to pull them out of the cup to save size. Worst comes to worst you could open the hole up in the sails and use the flush mount.

Cutting it close on mounting depth though.

 

SLC,.. never heard of them.. but what else is new. Seems speaker and amp companies are a dime a dozen now. They are priced up there.. I was looking to spend about $200 max.. those are closer to $300.. but if they are just absolutely ridiculously good.. then I'll go with them.

You said you used 1inch spacing.. That is the amount the Stock speakers use. IE: If you take the stock factory speakers out and cut them out with a dremel from their mount/spacer .. then put the aftermarket speakers in/on top of this spacer it's 1".

So these SLC speakers fit without the window hitting, etc? Judging by the mm to inch conversion they are way less than 2.5" .. so they should fit. Other than the spacer, did they mount up/install with screw holes and fit in the factory enclosure well?

The tweeters are 20mm.. which is 3/4" I think.. so the SLC tweeters are the same size as the factory Sail panel tweeters? If so great.

Some speakers are overpriced and not worth the money,.. then some are priced a bit "under" the competition and are just as good or better.

Where would you put these SLC $289 pair of speakers in terms of quality?

I don't want to mess with components with 1" tweeters,.. I'm not looking to cut up the panels anywhere really.. 3/4" tweeters will sound great if they speaker is good.. the 1/4" doesn't make it sound good or bad to be honest. It's just 1" is a much more "Standard" size. Why the Z went with 3/4" is beyond me.

I'm just trying to find, as I said.. some definite awesome sounding components that fit without modification in the doors and factory tweeter spots. The SLC's you linked first,.. is that basically a definite .. you will love them? I notice they are silk as well.

Thanks

 

Did some digging. Those Rainbow SLC speakers you linked are discontinued.. Would love to find a pair as they have the tweeters in .75 instead of 1".

This is all I could find even remotely in price range in that brand, and the tweeters are 1".

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-7033-slx...nt-system.aspx

These must be some seriously high end speakers, and this is the BOTTOM end of that high range.

 

Dude you are starting to sound like either a troll or someone with OCD.

Other threads started by you in the last 3 weeks:

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...glove-box.html

my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/588309-will-these-mb-quart-6-5-speakers-fit-work-in-my-2008-350z.html

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...ting-gain.html

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...bluetooth.html

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...r-upgrade.html




And those are just the ones pertaining to upgrading the stereo in your car.

You have opened 21 new threads in about 21 days.

Dafuq?


MOST if not ALL of your repetetive questions have been answered multiple times in the last 3 weeks. You have also apparently chosen NOT to use the search function.

 

Good thread. I'm gonna have a heck of a time getting my old school diamond audio (Eton) hex separates to fit. I picked up a set in new condition from ebay. I'll make them fit somehow. I think mounting depth is 3". Guess I'll cut up my doors or something.

 

It's 2.5 WITH spacers, either made from the plastic surrounds on the cheap factory speakers, or purchase the nice ones from the forum sponsor that sells them for $20 a set (or custom make your own).

 

I made my own spacers because I didn't know about the aftermarket ones. And I wasn't going to chop up my bose mids.

 

Sorry man,.. I don't do drama.

 

Thanks.. I think this information is incredibly useful as well. I've searched this forum backwards and forwards for accurate non anecdotal and speculative absolute mounting depths,.. and haven't turned up much more than "Any more than 2.5" will hit the windows.. " -- With others have issues with 2.5",.. I'm pulling out the info slowly but surely.

The best method seems to be to either Fabricate some MDF spacers,.. or do as I am .. and use your stock factory speakers.. dremel (cut) them out and use that 1" spacer as a top mount.

3" is pretty long, especially if you are talking bottom mounting depth. But, you can obviously space on top. Factory, as said, is 1" -- More can be added, but only so far until your speaker starts to push the factory grill out. Of course if you have the means,.. you can make some custom grills to buy yourself another inch or more outwards. Then there are Pods if you want to sink that kind of money into your door speakers.

Personally I'm going with speakers at or under 2.5" depth,.. using the stock 1" spacer and keeping it inside the factory grille. Though, I am going to modify the grille covers as they muffle any speaker.

If you get those 3" speakers in there.. Put some pics up and some info on how you did it, if you had to do anything more than just use the factory spacer (or an aftermarket spacer that essentially does the same thing.)

Good luck.

 

3" would fit without hitting the outer door skin but the window wont clear it. 2.5" would be right against the glass if it clears.

And with 1" of spacer you have a tiny gap before it hits the door panel.

 

I hear ya. I'm going to chop mine, because I have a Base model,.. which has the bottom of the line Clarion 10-15watt speakers (at best) in it. They are essentially paper weights. If I end up wanting to keep the speakers I put in the car when I sell it,.. I can go buy some $20 speakers from walmart that would be better than these "base model" speakers.. no exaggeration.

I prob. wouldn't chop Bose speakers either.

 

You just like to waste bandwidth and clog the forum with repetitive threads?


You have asked AND answered your own questions in each of these threads - then you lament when the opinions you get are not in complete unison pertaining to specific brands, etc. THAT is always going to be the nature of replies you will get in a forum. There is no single "correct" answer.


Seriously, bro, take a few minutes and read through your half dozen SEPARATE threads on your "stereo upgrade" and you will see that they could and SHOULD all have been addressed in a single thread "seeking advice on upgrade/install" or similiar.


Some of us long time posters to the audio forums don't appreciate having most/all of the new threads being on the SAME TOPIC about your VERY BASIC stereo install.

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but really, step back and read through your own threads.

Quit hogging the forum bandwidth.

 

Just for the record the JL Audio Evolution CS Tweeters (C2-075CT) are perfect fit in the stock sail pillar/triangle, its pretty much a factory swap. They are 3/4" silk domes.

Hard to comment on how they sound "naked" since I'm running Alpine's Imprint system to clean up the frequencies and sound stage anyway. In general they sounded a touch weak (to me) but are also way off axis given their location.

 

Thanks, good info appreciate it.

I looked into the JL line of components. What do you think about the JL C2650's? Here: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C265...50.html?tp=106

 

The tweeters I mentioned are from this set, thus I assume the mids and crossover are of equal quality. Funny how those reviews say the tweeters are harsh, I found the opposite, they seem "tame" in my instal and I'm normally pretty picky about tweeters. I find most tweeters harsh, especially metal domes and thus go with soft / silk domes. However the harshness in my system is in the upper mid range, right around the crossover point with the tweeters (5kHz).

All this is VERY subjective - like I said in your other thread regarding the amp placement when the subject of the CDTs came up.

 

Positioning and power has a lot to do with sound.

Tweets will also soften up a little over time. My Rainbow tweets were a tad harsh at first but after about 20 hours of playing they softened up and now they sound amazing.

 

All of this is subjective, which is what makes it so great, and frustrating. There just isn't one consensus or "right" answer for this stuff.

I think tweeters may not be quite as harsh in the 350Z if we put them in the stock Sail panels due to location .. it's a little offset from where you would "ideally" put tweeters,.. and not in perfect direction(al) for the driver or passenger. So that can bleed some of the harshness off.

Positioning has a lot to do with my last response above -- But yes, positioning and power are everything in sound.. despite if it's a 3/4" tweeter or a 12" sub... Then you have the "quality/cleanness" of the power.. quality of the speaker itself.. the properties of the speaker (warm? Bright? etc..) The car itself,.. how do the speakers sound in the factory locations.. are they sealed? Or is there a lot of loss of sound due to the lack of attention to design? That brings in using filler/sound deadening material and so on. You can literally spend as much money and time as you feel like when doing this stuff.

I keep hearing tweets and mids "breaking in" after 20-40 hours of use.. Heard it enough now that there has bound to be some truth to the statement.

 

OP reminds me of that guy that always asks for advice, then after you give it he does nothing of what you told him to do.

 

Speakers are highly subjective. Every speaker I am considering to purchase has come from this forum and the advice of people on an audio only forum.

Thanks for stopping by.