Detector placement and rear-facing visibilty.
09-29-2002, 04:59 PM
#1
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Detector placement and rear-facing visibilty.
I've seen several different positions for the detector placement in the Z and wanted to share some "data" I collected this weekend on the effectiveness of my Passport 8500 in picking up signals out the rear glass. I know a lot of people are deliberating where to place the detector and I wanted to throw in a couple of opinions.
Preface: The installer at the place I bought my detector at said I'd have no problems with rear-facing visibilty since the only thing that would interfere with the signal was steel. The photo below illustrates the detector's line of sight. The plastic housing that surrounds the third brake light at the top of the hatch has no adverse affect on the detector. The next photo illustrates the mounting position relative to the mirror and headliner.
And now, the results...
Yesterday afternoon I ran an errand into town and was sitting at a light when I started picking up some Ka. The signal kept getting stronger as I scanned ahead to try and find the bogey and 20-30 seconds later, two cruisers came flying up to the intersection from the rear with their lights on trying to force their way through. If I had to guess, I'd say I started to pick them up ~2 miles back. Not too shabby and now I know the damn thing works! Once again today, I picked up Ka signal and shortly thereafter a cruiser came rolling up from behind around a bend and onto a long straight. An additional test was one of those police department trailers on the side of the street that measure your speed and display it on a huge sign "SPEED LIMIT 35 YOUR SPEED 45". This unit was using Ka and I picked it up in the front and the detector continued to scream as I put the trailer behind me and went around the corner.
Now, I do wish that I had the directional arrows of the V1, but for the $100 difference in price, I am EXTREMELY pleased with the Passport 8500. Hope this helps!
Preface: The installer at the place I bought my detector at said I'd have no problems with rear-facing visibilty since the only thing that would interfere with the signal was steel. The photo below illustrates the detector's line of sight. The plastic housing that surrounds the third brake light at the top of the hatch has no adverse affect on the detector. The next photo illustrates the mounting position relative to the mirror and headliner.
And now, the results...
Yesterday afternoon I ran an errand into town and was sitting at a light when I started picking up some Ka. The signal kept getting stronger as I scanned ahead to try and find the bogey and 20-30 seconds later, two cruisers came flying up to the intersection from the rear with their lights on trying to force their way through. If I had to guess, I'd say I started to pick them up ~2 miles back. Not too shabby and now I know the damn thing works! Once again today, I picked up Ka signal and shortly thereafter a cruiser came rolling up from behind around a bend and onto a long straight. An additional test was one of those police department trailers on the side of the street that measure your speed and display it on a huge sign "SPEED LIMIT 35 YOUR SPEED 45". This unit was using Ka and I picked it up in the front and the detector continued to scream as I put the trailer behind me and went around the corner.
Now, I do wish that I had the directional arrows of the V1, but for the $100 difference in price, I am EXTREMELY pleased with the Passport 8500. Hope this helps!
09-29-2002, 05:51 PM
#3
I just installed my Valentine One in my Z today as well. The install is pretty clean with only about 4-5 inches of wire visible and even that is behind the black dots on the windshield and not really visible from the outside (well OK you can see it in the pic but I think that's with the aid of the camera flash).
I like mine as high as possible and as close to the middle as possible. You are limited a bit by the black dots (could hurt laser detection) but take a look at my pics to see where I put it.
It works really well front and back. I took it out tonight where I know there are radar sources and the directional arrows worked fine. Will have to wait for a laser test but rear laser detection is over rated anyway. If they get you from behind with laser your more than likely already toast.
Here are some pics: You know, I didn't realize until right now after looking at this pic after I posted it, that my rear storage compartment was opened!
I like mine as high as possible and as close to the middle as possible. You are limited a bit by the black dots (could hurt laser detection) but take a look at my pics to see where I put it.
It works really well front and back. I took it out tonight where I know there are radar sources and the directional arrows worked fine. Will have to wait for a laser test but rear laser detection is over rated anyway. If they get you from behind with laser your more than likely already toast.
Here are some pics: You know, I didn't realize until right now after looking at this pic after I posted it, that my rear storage compartment was opened!
Last edited by Dr Bonz; 09-29-2002 at 06:20 PM.
09-29-2002, 05:57 PM
#6
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I'm looking at my 8500 manual and it doesn't say anything about rear radar, just a rear laser detector port.
As a result I'm going to mount my 8500 as high as I can since I have the ZR3 shifter in the rear that will detect, and hopefully confuse, laser.
As a result I'm going to mount my 8500 as high as I can since I have the ZR3 shifter in the rear that will detect, and hopefully confuse, laser.
09-29-2002, 05:59 PM
#7
If you follow the red line you can see how I buried the wire behind the headliner, ran it over to the left and then down the pillar between the rubber and the plastic and down into the fuse box. I took the advice of someone who mentioned that using a credit card to tuck the wire in worked well, and it did.
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09-29-2002, 06:05 PM
#9
To hook into the fusebox, I cut off the phone jack plug and bared the four wires. I used the 15 Amp fuse for the cig. lighter. I assumed that you would use the red and black wires so I hooked the red into the fuse plug and the black to a ground....NO DEAL. I then tried the green into the fuse and the red into the ground and it worked fine. I tried to read the manual on this but it wasn't listed.
09-29-2002, 06:06 PM
#10
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Bonz... thanks --
Your post showed up after I said thanks to droid...
This is really helpful in prep for taking delivery of my new Z
In my current Z32.. I have the radar detector clipped onto the passenger visor... and professionally wired. It's not as heavy as the Passport or V1.
This is really helpful in prep for taking delivery of my new Z
In my current Z32.. I have the radar detector clipped onto the passenger visor... and professionally wired. It's not as heavy as the Passport or V1.
09-29-2002, 06:13 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by ksj
I'm looking at my 8500 manual and it doesn't say anything about rear radar, just a rear laser detector port.
I'm looking at my 8500 manual and it doesn't say anything about rear radar, just a rear laser detector port.
09-29-2002, 06:13 PM
#12
The visor clip method would be kind of awkward in the 350Z. The detector would sit way back from the window. Also, the angle of the roof and the visor would cause the detector to tilt at a downward angle. I even tried to clip it under the headliner way up by the glass but that didn't work either. I usually hate the suction cups but that was really the only way to go here if you want the detector up high. Would you agree droid?
Last edited by Dr Bonz; 09-29-2002 at 06:15 PM.
09-29-2002, 06:17 PM
#13
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Originally posted by Dr Bonz
Here's one with the camera resting on the rear strut brace:
Here's one with the camera resting on the rear strut brace:
09-29-2002, 06:25 PM
#14
Actually I did program it, I just haven't taken out the remote yet. Have you noticed that the range on the Homelink doesn't seem to be as good as the original remote? Also, it seems that I have to hit the button two or three times to get it to work. Anyone else with this problem?
In the manual, it says doors made after 1996 are usually rolling codes but I never had to climb up to the motor to set it. I just did it from inside the car with the remote so I guess that means I have a static code. The house was built in 1997 but maybe the doors were from a pre-96 model?
In the manual, it says doors made after 1996 are usually rolling codes but I never had to climb up to the motor to set it. I just did it from inside the car with the remote so I guess that means I have a static code. The house was built in 1997 but maybe the doors were from a pre-96 model?
Last edited by Dr Bonz; 09-29-2002 at 06:27 PM.
09-29-2002, 06:26 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by Dr Bonz
I usually hate the suction cups but that was really the only way to go here if you want the detector up high. Would you agree droid?
I usually hate the suction cups but that was really the only way to go here if you want the detector up high. Would you agree droid?
09-29-2002, 06:31 PM
#17
I had the exact same problem. Could only get the one on the bare glass to stick and the one on the dots would not. BTW, I didn't know that those were the AM antenna!
I'm going to get blasted for this I'm sure, but I used one drop of "Super Glue" and it is up there now! I figure that I can get the glue spot off with some acetone if I ever have to. OK.....flames away!
I'm going to get blasted for this I'm sure, but I used one drop of "Super Glue" and it is up there now! I figure that I can get the glue spot off with some acetone if I ever have to. OK.....flames away!
09-29-2002, 06:32 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by Dr Bonz
Actually I did program it, I just haven't taken out the remote yet. Have you noticed that the range on the Homelink doesn't seem to be as good as the original remote? Also, it seems that I have to hit the button two or three times to get it to work. Anyone else with this problem?
In the manual, it says doors made after 1996 are usually rolling codes but I never had to climb up to the motor to set it. I just did it from inside the car with the remote so I guess that means I have a static code. The house was built in 1997 but maybe the doors were from a pre-96 model?
Actually I did program it, I just haven't taken out the remote yet. Have you noticed that the range on the Homelink doesn't seem to be as good as the original remote? Also, it seems that I have to hit the button two or three times to get it to work. Anyone else with this problem?
In the manual, it says doors made after 1996 are usually rolling codes but I never had to climb up to the motor to set it. I just did it from inside the car with the remote so I guess that means I have a static code. The house was built in 1997 but maybe the doors were from a pre-96 model?
09-29-2002, 06:39 PM
#19
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Um, I think it's just sun shading for the area not covered by the visors. That black thing that sticks out near the back on the drivers side is your antenna (sorry, I just couldn't help myself 
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