ACP

iTrader: (1)

Did a search here for the Octane R amp and sub line, and don't see any posts

Any comments how they are ?

I was planning on going with JL Audio amp and W6v2 sub, but would like to hear comments on the PG Octane R line.

They sure look sweek with the blue led, but how is the sound and quality and are they priced right ?

Like to hear others thoughts

Thanks!

stu46

The Octane line is for "show" compared to their Tantrums. Depending on what size sub, I would go with PG. If it's the 12w6v2, go with the JL 500/1. If it's the 10w6v2, PG Tantrum 300.1. Hope this helps.

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

I agree with Stu..although the PG is a quality amplifier, I would mate the 500/1 w/ the w6v2, because it is made for that. The power handling and output are perfect. Even if it is a 10, I say go with the JL amp. If price is an issue than that is a different story, but I've seen the 500/1 go for $320 on ebay on numerous occasions.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask =)

ravi

ACP

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the reply guys

I am not really an audiophile, car is used mosly for shows.
Going to build a box for the spare tire area, and put in a amp rack and the sub, with plexi glass cover, and have blue led to light up around them. (just a hint)

When I seen these Octane R, I just thought they might be more attractive.
But the last thing I want, is for people to say it looks good, but the equipment is subpar...

stu46

Check out Xtant. Very sexy looking amps and they perform even better.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

I am putting in a PG Octane 5.0.4 Saturday...

The front two channels will power my A/d/s 5 1/2 in the front while the rear two channels power my PG XS competition sub.

That is my cheap set up. If I had money, I would buy into PG's Xenon series amps. They have the best noise ratios on the market. They are not made from the classic mosfet design. Check out the specs on those amps, they are pretty awsome for the money.

stu46

I've seen their surfboard 1200.1. Such a monster of an amp, puts out crazy power though. If I had a suv, that would be in it....lol

GQ 350z

iTrader: (13)

Nice thing about the amps you've chosen is that they are typically highly under-rated. For instance, my old PG 1200.1 was rated at 1200 watts obviously, but the birth sheet said 1560 watts rms at 14 volts. That is very strong.

Same with the JL "slash" series. Usually the 500/1 is putting out 500-600 watts continuous. Very clean power. I had that amp powering an Elemental e10a, and was blown away by the sound and output.

The PG does look showy, but the JL amps are just as classy. Trust me, no one will knock either choice if they have even the slightest clue what they are talking about.

p.s. any greddy evo 2's in stock? =)


ravi

ACP

iTrader: (1)

Ahsmo let me know how your install turns out.

Would the PG Octane 5.0.4 amp, be enough to power 2 front Kappa Perfects 6.1 and 1 PG Octane R 10 ?

Any comments on the PG Octane R sub ?
I may have to go with this, as I am building a box in the spare tire area, and want to keep the stock height which is about 6 3/4"

The JL Audio W6v2 10 sub mounting depth is 6.9, and require a 3/4 space behind it, + the MDF, so that would put it a couple inches more then that. Would raise the floor up some, which I don't want to do.

The PG Octane R 10" has a mounting depth of 5 5/8...

cehome

iTrader: (7)

True however the new PG Xenon mono amps are just as good IMO.

tractng

iTrader: (9)

Ahsmo,

Let me know too. I am getting that amp or the alpine one soon. In regards to your setup (breakdown), what rms will be for the front and the sub?

Are you using the stock non bose HU?


Thanks,
Tonyh

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

The 5.0.4 puts out 50 watts rms, or at least thats what the spec sheet in the box says. I had to buy the damn thing to ever find that out...

It will push those kappa perfects with no problem.

My A/D/S 5 3/4 are slamming in my doors and screaming highs now. I believe when I upgrade my door speakers to 6 1/2s someday I will not need a larger amp to push them...

The rear two channels bridged is slamming my old 12 needless to say I was completely blown away.

On the Octane 10...... My installer said that the Octane R 10 are some of the most sensitive subs out there right now(I talked to him today about all modes of subs as I had nothing to do but wait on my car), so without a doubt those rear two channels will push it... I say go with the PG sub

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

I looked at the Alpine MRP-F240 as an alternative to the PG 5.0.4...due to the slightly reduced cost...

However, like generally all PG stuff, the 5.0.4 is under-rated...
(I.E the Xenon 1200.1 really does about 1500watts) With that said, I paid another 50 bucks and got the better, more powerful PG amp.

I am using the stock non blose HU. As it stands now, the head unit's CD player is as good or better then aftermarket CD players...(with the exception of the Nam-cantspellorpronounce-cha) but there is a lack of control an aftermarket head unit can offer...but to make up for that...Eclipse sells a 5 band EQ which does:

Equalization Frequencies:
Parametric; 25100Hz
Graphic; 250Hz, 600Hz, 1.5kHz, 4kHz, 10kHz
*** Rotary Encoder for Master Level Control and EQ Defeat Function
Front Panel A/B Input Selection
High-Pass and Low-Pass Filters for Front & Rear Channel and Subwoofer Output
Input Level Control
Gold-Plated RCA Jacks

One would need to pay 300-400+ to get the same out of an aftermarket head unit....this little thing costs $150......

In the next few weeks I plan on buying one and putting in where the Nav screen would be, should be very stealth and not to mention awsome

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

Just incase anyone wonders....

I spent 300 on the speakers+install+dynomat install
250 on the amp+install+wires+pac converters

tractng

iTrader: (9)

Ahsmo,

Can you help me with this setup. I am going to install Perfect 6.1 for the fronts.

I am building a box for a Infinity Perfect 10.1. My amp will be likely a Phoenix Gold Octane-R 8.0:4

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0kzG6pK...f=N&search=amp

I am planning to keep the nonbose HU. So do I need two LOCs? The front for the Perfect 6.1 and the back for the sub? If I decide I want to power the back speakers using the HU, do I share the same rear speakers wire (before the LOC)?.

Also, how do I bridge? What do I need? Do I just double up on the rear channels with the left and right wires and then going to the sub?

Do you think this amp can do the job since yours is a R 5 and this a R 8? With the setup I just describe, do I get 75 watts each for the front and for the sub, I get 250watts RMS?


Thanks in advance.
Tony

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

With that amp (Phoenix Gold Octane-R 8.0:4) you are going to have problems with placement. It will not fit in the glove box behind the driver’s seat (I don’t think). With that said, I would suggest looking to put it under the seat or somewhere in that area.

When you say LOC I assume you mean a PAC converter or that thingy that takes the powered signal and drops it down to RCA out puts?

If that’s the case, there are different types:
Some have the front and rear inputs and out puts in one package. Others are set up for only one set of inputs and out puts so you will have to buy two of those types.

I would just look and see what is available where ever you are buying them from and decide which is the most economical.

All PAC converters are different... you just need to wire up the fronts and not wire the wires that go back to your doors up again... you will need those wires later to hook up the amp. The rear speakers, you will treat as your sub line levels. While still allowing the stock HU to power the rear speakers... The PAC converter will have instructions on how to wire it through so the converter only extracts the signal and allows the amped signal to pass through.

That part is pretty straight forward, once you look at the devices you should be able to tell how it works.


Bridging is simple:
(I think you had the right idea about it but here is my version)To bridge two channels...connect the positive speaker wire to channel one’s positive side and then connect the negative speaker wire to channel two’s negative side.

If that wasn’t clear, the manual for the amp describes how to do it, you don’t really need anything extra to accomplish the task as far as materials go.

That amp will more then get the job done, you will be satisfied with it. You will get 75 watts for each front channel then 150 or so watts for the sub (more then enough for that sub).

When you wires for the speakers from the amp up, don’t even try to route wires through the doors, to make it look right, that wiring harness has to be cut; it’s not worth the time. Just run your speakers wires from the amp up to the dash and piggy back off the stock wiring to the doors.