rotaryrocket7

I'm creating a sub box in the spare tire space and am going to use 1/2 inch HDF board for the bottom and sides (1 inch on Top for flush mounting). What does everyone think? I plan to fiberglass the interior for added rigidity. I know that 3/4 is generally as thin as you should get, but I can't make this all fit under the rear carpet for total stealth install. Thanks for the replies! If anyone has solidworks I can send you the 3d file.

leolufse

I think you mean MDF. Generally 3/4 is the rule, but if you are going to reinforce it with fiberglass it should be plenty strong.

fillup

I assume by HDF you mean High density fiberboard? This application should work as long as you use a heavy glass (maybe something like a 6oz s glass) I would also consider using the hdf and glass to create internal bracing this will help to ensure that there is little baffle and general enclosure resonance. if you need any help you can pm me the specs of sub and the enclosure and I can try to help with the design.

dannichols

for those who have put in a trunk mounted sub box or are planning to, how did you get enough depth in the area? My measurements from the trunk lining down to the bottom metal of the trunk is from 6 to 7 inches in various spots (shallower towards front). Good quality subs have a deep mounting depth requirement like 6 inches. With the width of the MDF and/or fiberglass, how do you mount a sub in the trunk without it sticking out above the trunk lining? I was thinking that it is probably possible to raise the trunk depth since it is really only a couple pieces of foam holding up the trunk lining, is this what you did?

xlacrosse

make a raised floor.... simple as that

stu46

it won't be the same height as stock. i just built an amp rack and put reflective plexi for the space behind the strut.

LS350Z

I added 3/4" to my floor level to get my sub to fit and look right. I also used 3/4" MDF for my whole box and used polyester resin on all sides inside the box for strength.

I don't have any pictures up-loaded to the net of my new setup .

LS350Z

teh215 does have one photo of my car that he took at NOPI Nationals over the weekend.

Here's the thread he posted the link:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=92491

Here's the link to his site:
http://www.shift350z.com/gallery/vie...album07&page=2

And here's the link to my picture of my sub:
http://www.shift350z.com/gallery/vie...07&id=DSCF0029

Even though I've removed them, my floor height is only 3/4" over stock and I use to have 3/4" mdf on top of the foam peices in the trunk. I've since removed those stock foam peices and built false flooring to show-off my crossovers (which are highlighted in carbonfiber as well as my amp). Yes my subbox is Carbon Fiber as well before anyone asks.

stu46

nice setup, how you like the Xtant? I'm trying to convince this guy to get an Xtant 6.1 over the JL 500/1. For $50 more, he can get the 6.1. He'll use it to power his 10W7.

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=92079

rotaryrocket7

Question above re: depth of trunk. I have PPI Pro 12's (2) that are being mounted in a box with a height of 6 and 3/4"s . The mounting depth of the sub is 5 and 5/8's, so they do fit... and I think they're pretty quailty subs. They are designed for shallow mounting (Less than the DynAudio 7's in the doors).

I took your advice and glassed the inside of the box and used mat and glass over the seams. Box is definetly strong enough, Thanks!

I flush mounted the subs so the entire enclosure subs and amps will be completely hidden. I wanted to be able to cart around the golf clubs. I didn't look at the links above, but I bet it's quite similar (not CF, which would be better).

If anyone wants specs on dimensions; I have. If you have Solidworks you can modify.

Thanks again for all of the advice!!