buletman

Alright, thanks for reading my post first of all, who knows, you might be able to help me out.

I am planning the following install, and yet I sitll feel as though I'm still completely in the dark.

JL Audio 500/1 (From eBay, most likely ~300) Amp to power my:
JL Audio 10W7 (From HERE - AWESOME PRICE, most likely)


JL Audio 300/(4or2) (From eBay, most likely ~275) Amp to power my:
Boston Acoustics Pro 65 6.5 Components and Tweeters (From HERE - AWESOME PRICE, most likely)

Clarion DXZ945MP (From eBay, most likely ~350)
-or-
Clarion DXZ745MP (From eBay, most likely ~300)
One of the two afformentioned Head Units will power the Stock Bose Rears as well.

Here are my questions/decisions I need a bit of help on.

First off, I am curious to see who thinks I should get the 300/4 or 300/2 to power my Pro65s...I have read that the Boston's have something called Biampable?

Would it be worth the extra money/install/equipment to get the Pro65^3 system over the Pro65?

Anyone hear about the Pro60? They replaced the Pro65, I haven't heard anything about them though...

Does the auxilary port in the back of the clarions use the DAC 24-Bit? Or if I were to use an AUX port on any HU, even if it was DAC 1-Bit it would sound the same?

Is it possible to install the 10W7 in the stock Bose sub location? Where should I go to get enclosure if possible?

How much does Nazar usually have his under strut 1xSub usually run?

Is it better to have the Bostons be in Axis mount, or have the tweeters in stock Bose location?

I'm sure I'll have it professionally installed, but not knowing much about CAR AUDIO/WIRING, would it be hard to do this install? Would a professional installer install all these items EXACLTY how I want it, eg. with dynamat (or equivalent), run wires where I want, put Sub where I want, and use the Gauge I tell them to? Would a pro even do this because I didn't buy equipment from them? Price for something like this?

I realize this is a somewhat of a "mega-post," so thanks again for taking the time to read and reply!

My goal: To have a very high sound quality, with a "lil' boom" to it. I might be using an iPod, or I might use mp3 CDs, or plain CDs.

Thanks again guys.

hndumafia

iTrader: (10)

everything sounds good, except i dont really know anything about the clarion h/u's. for the amp, since you are just going to have the set of components up front you only need the 300/2. i'm not exactly sure but i think to hook up the bose rear speakers to the new h/u would be a big pita because you have to bypass the factory bose amp.

again i'm not 100% sure but i dont know if there is a sufficient amount of space to build a box suitable for the 10w7 in the stock sub location because of the mounting depth of the sub and the slope in that area.

the install is not that difficult, but it definitely helps to know a bit about what you're doing. if you're not sure what to do it might be better to take it to a shop to install though. tell them what you want and i'm sure a good shop will comply with your requests.

buletman

I was looking at your sig and I noticed you have an extremely similar setup. How is it?

Did you do the install yourself?

I can honestly say I know NOTHING about the Bose system, for example, where is the amp? Why would it be hard to bypass it? Or do I have to bypass it? Can I use it to power my rears only?

Thanks again...

hndumafia

iTrader: (10)

i am very happy with my setup. yes i did do the entire install, with the exception of the box that i have now. the box was built by a guy i worked with at a car audio shop this past summer.

i also dont know where the bose amp is or too much about it but there is something about the signal that makes it weird to integrate with.

buletman

So you yourself don't have rears? Where are your tweeters? (If you have em...I don't know much about the Perfects)

I would just be curious how to do the 1-inch spacer so the windows don't hit the 6.5s...

Also, I'm not sure I would know how to run the wires...how you get to the door and stuff...too confusing/scary. Don't think I could take apart my Z without 10 pairs of underwear on hand...:P

nissan_fanatic

iTrader: (4)

Frist off I am very happy with my setup and my rears are turned donw so low you can't hear them so with the boston pro's I would go with the 300/4 with the biampble feature so you get teh 400 watts going to the front.

Now with that being said, if you are asking these kind of questions you need to leave this to a professional and let them wire it, seriously. you will be happy with the W7, I promise

buletman

haha, I was actually going to PM you and ask your opinion after your ":-o" install. lol...I really really want to ask how much it cost you, but at the same time, it would break my heart...erm bank account too...lol

Thanks, and yeah, I can't wait to hear that 10W7 thumping in the back...

And I hate to say it, but I think I'm just gonna get a 300/2 over the 300/4, because I think it will just be a simpley design, no fuss or anything. I think the Biampable thing is more for to use 2 actual different amps so the highs and lows don't mix or something? I don't know, something I just read recently...The 300/2 is cheaper too so...

And one last thing, did you pre-order Halo 2 yet? :P

stu46

For $50, get the DXZ945MP. Not sure about the DAC through the AUX, I've heard that it will be whatever the device spits it out as. Not too sure, i'll check.

For amps, get Xtant. I just checked ebay, there's a Xtant 6.1 for $350 and a 4.4 for about the same price.

The BA Pro60 are pretty good. Since the pros are a metal dome, their a lot brighter/harsh. just depends on what you like. It's not as bad as the Infinity Kappa though. The older Pros sound good also.

The W7 will be too big for the stock location. Stick it under the strut.

Shop around for a good stereo shop. The shop that does all my work doesn't charge too much for install. If you can watch them install on another car, you can see how clean they run wires and mount speakers etc.

I have the components in the stock location. The tweeters are a little bigger than stock. If you can have them mount it and angle it towards the driver/pass that would be good.

PM me if you have any additional questions. Hope this helps.

buletman

I know you said PM you if I had any additional questions, but this way if someone else has the same questions, they can see your answers

Why Xtant? Better bang for the buck?

I have decided on focal 165 k2p for the components. I got them for about $450 brand new on eBay. A killer deal from what I've been told.

And I am now thinking about a 450/4 instead of the 300/4 or /2.

And as much as I like the look of the Clarion, for the cheaper price of the Nakamichi CD-400, which I think will produce a better sound, it's hard to justify the Clarion. I mean, true, I bought the Z for Aesthetics, not the power, so I guess I am being a hypocrite.

Let me know what you think,

Chad

stu46

No prob, this ups my post count and more email for my gmail. They just keep refilling the invites.

Xtant is a better amp. They have an entry line, don't remember their name. Then it's MTX, then the parent company Xtant. It's their flagship line. Kinda like porche>audi>vw.

As far as Clarion vs Nakamichi, it's up to you. The cd-400 will perform the same as the 945MP. I doubt you'll hear the difference, but the Clarion plays MP3s. I look at it this way. The high-end Clarion is the same as a low-end Nakamichi. If you were to compare the DXZ945MP to the CD-700II, that would be a totaly different story. It comes down to looks and mp3 capability. Not sure what the cd-400 goes for.

buletman

What makes you say Xtant is better? To be perfectly honest, I have never heard of Xtant before, while JL Audio has a very good rep.

As far as MP3 Capability, I will have an expensive system, and fear that I will hear all the "noise" in MP3s.

Thanks again!

stu46

check out these reviews. Xtant is MTX's parent company. Look at how huge MTX is and their reputation.

http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0308cae_xtant/

http://www.carreview.com/SearchResul...ction=Products

buletman

Yet more questions! Yay...:P

Will 11.5' be long enough to run RCA's from back of HU to trunk, if, amps are near Strut, or should I go with 16.4' which is 15 bucks more, or 19.7' which is $5 more ontop of the previous upgrade of 15? What about if I mount amps in stock bose sub location, as it seems a lot of people like putting them in there? I'm afraid of over-heating in that location though

I am a bit confused on the remote turn on. Where do I attach this wire? And what gauge should it be? 12, or 8?

Should the sub speaker wires be 12 or 8? I am using 12 for sure for speakers.

Any reason not to mount crossovers in doors? Any reason not to mount Amps on strut bar so that the vents are indeed pointing up?

If I have a 500/1 and a 450/4, what fuse ampage should I use? I know manual says 50-60A or something, but I don't think that is with both of them together. Doesn't it change? I think I may have calculated it to be about 144? Thanks again fellas.

What are the benefits/drawbacks of using the different types of fuses? Maxi, AGU, etc...

The only post I attach onthing on in the battery is the positive, right? I am most likely getting a streetwires distribution block with built in fuses. Same ampage fuses as the other, or depends on the amp connected to the personal fuse? If so, I think the manual for the 450/4 and 500/1 tell me what amp to use.
I'm sure I had more, can't think of any now though...



Thanks again, as always.

buletman

Bumpity...plz answer those last few questions guys, I need to know, so I know what to buy :P

stu46

i'd run a 16' rca

there's a wire that get's power when the car is started. your hu is hooked up to it. just run it to the same wire. 12ga.

8ga for sub.

no problems with mounting crossovers in the doors, that's where mine are. not sure about mounting the amps onto the strut. i'd rather not drill into it. should be fine though.

a 150a fuse should work. if it blows, just put in a bigger one.......lol

buletman

Thank you for your opinion

Where is it? I have service manual, just try to find the wiring schematics?

Sounds good.

Cool

lol, true.

What about my other questions? I was looking at the battery again today, realized I will need a new battery terminal, right? What gauge wire is hu to the stock terminal? Or can I just add a terminal on top of the stock one?

Thanks as always Mr. Stu

stu46

i say 16' cause that's what i've got. i know you can run 11' to the glove with a little slack left, not sure about all the way to the trunk. all depends on where you put the amp.

if you calculated it right, at 144a, 150a fuse should be fine.

i've got two 2ga running from my battery. don't know if they changed the terminal. i'll take a pic and post it up. you can see how it's run and if it's the same terminal or not.

with the hu, you can get a wire harness. on there should be the wire diagram stating what wire is what. i'll see if i can pull anything up.

i'll get back to you about the wire diagram and the terminal, i don't think they changed the terminal

buletman

i was gonna run 0 ga from bat, to distribution, then 4 ga to amps...just incase i decide to upgrade later, i can use same ga wire if i have 3000+ watts

stu46

3000+ watts? man, talk about some power. I've got two 2ga because i'm running 6 amps. so i've got 2 dist blocks with 3 amps per.

buletman

actually, i was just screwing around, but I figure why not use the best? how much more money can the 0 ga be compared to 2 or 4 ga?