finally finished with the assistance of nizl. This supplements my sub install from a while back.

first pic, getting wires to the door. Had to drill the MOLEX (thanks subwooer) connector so that the wires did not show.

 

then the doors

 

just realized I was using nizls login (im at his house) so I will continue under my true handle

anyway, so here is a pic of the amp "rack" I made for both amps

note, this is a fabulous place for the crossovers, cuz you have to tweek the heck out of the equipment so that it sounds reasonsble playing off of the terrible head unit.

I actually had to end up puttin the crossovers at -4db for the tweets. The damn clarion has this artificial high frequency boost so the OEM system sounds "clean."

 

yeah and the tweets are great in the stock position. nizl did the hole for the tweet using a hole saw that fits on a drill. I think he used 1.25 inch? Anyway, the tweets fit in veeery snug and just a thin film of liquid nails at that interface worked to hold them in good.

BTW, yes I did dynomat the doors!

 

What size are the door speakers, and where did you get that spacer from?

 

Oh when you said you were having tweeter problems I thought you had dynaudios like me. I am not sure but it looks like you are using JL or quarts. They are both notoriously bright tweeters IMO and there is not much you can do about it, sorry to say. If they are the JL, it may be fixable, but I've had a couple high end ($800+) sets of quarts and I could never fix the brightness, even with an Audio Control EQL. You still might want to try reversing the phase though.

Did you try mounting the tweeter down lower? That will help a bit. I made bridges out of strapping material and mounted my tweeters above my woofers in the doors. I'm also boring out and recovering the stock speaker grills with grill cloth because they are covered about 1/3 with plastic!?! WHAT THE?! Anyway, if you still have effort it might be worth trying to mount the tweeter near the woofer - you are going to have trouble getting a good soundstage/imaging with the tweeters so far from the woofer.

On the other hand if you dont care about that really, keep it in the stock location.

ps- did you run seperate wires for the tweeter and woofer from the amp in the back? This is generally not a great idea! It would be worth the effort to at least run a shorter length from under the dash. I mounted mine in the doors not by preference but I wanted to keep the leads after the Xover as short as possible. I'm just going ot tune it 90% with the doors off then final tweaking later. I figure I wont ever really change the setting of hte twweeter once its set and its imaging properly. I'm also not worried about them getting wet (as you mentioned) as they are in the cabin-side of the inner panel. That area doesnt get wet.

pps- I dont mean to criticize your install again, just posting things you should think about if you want the best result..

 

there is nothing wrong with having seperate wires going from amp. Additionally, anywhere you would put the crossovers under the drivers dash would have to be ghetto tied somewhere.

Nizl is the one with three way dyan audios that is having problems with high freq like me, he is upset because he only has only -2db on his X-over, whereas my XR comps go -4 or -4.5.

As far as sound stage, nizl and I both agree that our soundstages are somewhat similar, and he has custom kick panels (im sure youve seen the pics). I will have to live with the small discrepancy at this point, as my sail panels have been bored out. Xtant has a little gimmicky **** that you turn that teaks the sound stage a little tiny bit (it just puts a trough in at 180hz). I think the drivers for the XR comps arent as novel as the tweets anyway...

Sweet idea with the grills.. I did notice the plastic covering the holes. I think this is the dumbest fu*king idea nissan ever had! I will do the cloth now too....

As far as the spacers, nizl made them out of MDF. The heart breaker is that they werent wide enough to have the speaker clear the window, so we had to last minute add another mdf ring that was made in the dark that looks BAD (but works).

Nizl would suggest giving the -2db setting on the dyan audios a long try before putting the doors back on...the stock head unit really adds a TON of treble, and you dont start noticing until a couple of hours of listening...unless you have a new HU.

 

Subw00er, sorry but you are totally wrong about this, and others need to be aware of the following...

First, mounting the crossovers in the door is VERY BAD as doors do not stay dry. In fact, most components - including the JL's and, AFAIK, Dynaudio's - explicitly recommend *against* mounting the crossovers in the doors because of this.

Second, there is nothing wrong with a long length of cable, as long as it is a sufficient gauge and shielding for the distance. I know of many many competition vehicles that have the xovers all the way in the back.

The main point is that the doors are an EXTREMELY bad place for xovers, so I would encourage others to avoid this...

 

my x-overs are in the kick panels...

you're right... doors are not good spots for x-overs... too much moisture.

m

 

I definitely dont want to start a war here, but where does Dynaudio recommend against this? I didnt read anything about this, and I spoke at length to a Dynaudio tech about my install and mounting plans. It seems like that would have come up! I have heard it elsewhere, but he is the one that strongy recommended getting the xover and midrange close.

If you think about it, the moisture that is felt in the door is not far off from that which is in the cabin - ie. foggy windows on a rainy day. Car audio components like Xovers and speakers are designed to sustain the harsh enviroment of the car; heat. moisture, electrical fluctuations etc.

It should be noted that I mounted the Xover to the metal panel closest to the cabin of the car, not deep inside the door, behind the glass, where it obviously can see drops of water. Its mounted mid-way on the door between the speaker hole and that large grommet. There is no direct-water contact in this area unless you spill it in there or drive with windows open in the rain?!

 

My crossover's are mounted on the door as well, on the inside layer just behind the "wet suit" material foam door cover that pops off.

 

Nizl?

 

yes, yes...I mentioned that I started the thread under nizls name and continued under mine, so you want ME to answer.

The speakers are 6.5" and nizl made the spacers out of MDF board. The board is 3/4 inch and this was not high enough....if you plan to put speakers in, I heard that the spacers for maxima and altima are the same, so I would go for those.