DIY: 06+ Base with Cruise Control using Uprev + OEM Parts
The switches on my '05 are for a later model Z. I'm not really sure if that means older ones will work, but I think they should.
Hey guys, just read through everything.
Some of you have some ***** messing with your clusters like that hah.
anyways.
I was wondering if i bought the steering wheels as a whole (with CC and volume controls) would this work?
I know to install the brake and clutch switches as well.
But if I swap steering wheel for steering wheel. is it possible?
It seems like it would be no problem.. but Im just not sure.
Also im getting an uprev tune in the next few weeks.
So how will i know which map i am on if i dont have the Cruise light in my cluster??
Some of you have some ***** messing with your clusters like that hah.
anyways.
I was wondering if i bought the steering wheels as a whole (with CC and volume controls) would this work?
I know to install the brake and clutch switches as well.
But if I swap steering wheel for steering wheel. is it possible?
It seems like it would be no problem.. but Im just not sure.
Also im getting an uprev tune in the next few weeks.
So how will i know which map i am on if i dont have the Cruise light in my cluster??
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 24
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From: Randleman, NC
I have a friend whose sister wrecked her 04. Needless to say it is a higher trim level with cruise but is an automatic (not sure what trim level). I was planning on doing this, and this opportunity fell into my lap to be able to buy parts off the car. Assuming I can get all the switches and the controls off this other Z for cheap. It may be in my best interest to ****** an ECU for a higher trim Z. I have access to consult and can program my key's ect. Did anyone ever just swap the ECU to do this? I know a few talked about it, but never followed through. To have CC on my base would be amazing!
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey 07731
I didnt see this mentioned but.....can I use my gauge cluster and install the cruise led....and have it work normally? Im only asking because I talked with bob from gauge craft today and he'll install the led for my while he is doing my shift needle and backlight leds for an extra $30 sounds good to me not to have to find a cluster with cruise already in it! Any input would be great!
Last edited by Steve-Z33; Jan 25, 2014 at 02:47 PM.
I didnt see this mentioned but.....can I use my gauge cluster and install the cruise led....and have it work normally? Im only asking because I talked with bob from gauge craft today and he'll install the led for my while he is doing my shift needle and backlight leds for an extra $30 sounds good to me not to have to find a cluster with cruise already in it! Any input would be great!
A base model cluster will not even know an led is available to illuminate.
So....even reflashing the car with uprev wont make the light work? If I have the led installed? My tuner said he can flash my ecu with his enthusiasts map file..which sounds like a few other members have done to have there cruise work on a base, I realize I have the have the switches and buttons. So beside the led on the circuit board are there any other differences with bezels "Only pertaining too the cruise function"?
So....even reflashing the car with uprev wont make the light work? If I have the led installed? My tuner said he can flash my ecu with his enthusiasts map file..which sounds like a few other members have done to have there cruise work on a base, I realize I have the have the switches and buttons. So beside the led on the circuit board are there any other differences with bezels "Only pertaining too the cruise function"?
Hi Steve,
I ran into the same issue when I was looking for a gauge cluster online to swap with. What I did was use the P/N data which is printed on a sticker stuck on the bottom of the housing/cluster. For example CF40C/14LG. Then I started googling stuff to get whatever information I could.
Nissan Parts zone lists the gauge clusters always starting with 24820-XXXX.
For example: 24820-CF40C.
I searched and searched and discovered there are dozens of different P/Ns out there to cover all the different trim packages and countries these Zs were sold in. Ultimately I just asked the wrecker I bought my used cluster from if the Z he pulled it from had cruise control. It was a roadster model and I think all the roadsters had CC. Once he confirmed that indeed it had the cruise control switches on the steering wheel, I made him an offer and got the cluster for $100.00.
The one major downside to replacing the cluster, besides having to take the damned thing apart, is re-programming it for the proper mileage reading. The used cluster I bought had much higher mileage on it than my own Z. There are specialized shops out there that do this kind of work, but you have to fill out some legal form and pay for the work. In my case I used Palo Alto Speedometer. They do fine work, mostly for classic or exotic cars, but they are local and offered me the convenience of drop-off and pickup, I didn't want to deal with the delays of shipping. The cost for the re-program was $175.00 which is highway robbery in my opinion since others on here have been quoted less than $75.00 with other shops. (seriously, $175.00 for a few min of work? I imagine these cluster re-programmers are practically 1-button and your done kinda thing). But that's what you get in Palo Alto CA.
Anyway, try googling the P/N on the cluster you're interested in with 24820 followed by the stickered number on the cluster. You will at least get the year information and whether or not it was for an MT or AT. Sometimes you get the trim package information as well.
Hope this helps and good luck! My cruise control is still working flawlessly and so is my gauge cluster. It was a hassle and a lot of work to swap the cluster. But to me at least, its been worth the struggle.
-Mark
I ran into the same issue when I was looking for a gauge cluster online to swap with. What I did was use the P/N data which is printed on a sticker stuck on the bottom of the housing/cluster. For example CF40C/14LG. Then I started googling stuff to get whatever information I could.
Nissan Parts zone lists the gauge clusters always starting with 24820-XXXX.
For example: 24820-CF40C.
I searched and searched and discovered there are dozens of different P/Ns out there to cover all the different trim packages and countries these Zs were sold in. Ultimately I just asked the wrecker I bought my used cluster from if the Z he pulled it from had cruise control. It was a roadster model and I think all the roadsters had CC. Once he confirmed that indeed it had the cruise control switches on the steering wheel, I made him an offer and got the cluster for $100.00.
The one major downside to replacing the cluster, besides having to take the damned thing apart, is re-programming it for the proper mileage reading. The used cluster I bought had much higher mileage on it than my own Z. There are specialized shops out there that do this kind of work, but you have to fill out some legal form and pay for the work. In my case I used Palo Alto Speedometer. They do fine work, mostly for classic or exotic cars, but they are local and offered me the convenience of drop-off and pickup, I didn't want to deal with the delays of shipping. The cost for the re-program was $175.00 which is highway robbery in my opinion since others on here have been quoted less than $75.00 with other shops. (seriously, $175.00 for a few min of work? I imagine these cluster re-programmers are practically 1-button and your done kinda thing). But that's what you get in Palo Alto CA.
Anyway, try googling the P/N on the cluster you're interested in with 24820 followed by the stickered number on the cluster. You will at least get the year information and whether or not it was for an MT or AT. Sometimes you get the trim package information as well.
Hope this helps and good luck! My cruise control is still working flawlessly and so is my gauge cluster. It was a hassle and a lot of work to swap the cluster. But to me at least, its been worth the struggle.
-Mark
I found eBay auctions that showed the interior.
Look for steering wheel switches & VDC to the left of the steering wheel.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPEEDOMETER-CLUSTER-07-08-NISSAN-350Z-/390718362818?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item5af8a114c2&vxp=mtr
That is a base.
Look for steering wheel switches & VDC to the left of the steering wheel.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPEEDOMETER-CLUSTER-07-08-NISSAN-350Z-/390718362818?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item5af8a114c2&vxp=mtr
That is a base.
Hi Steve,
I ran into the same issue when I was looking for a gauge cluster online to swap with. What I did was use the P/N data which is printed on a sticker stuck on the bottom of the housing/cluster. For example CF40C/14LG. Then I started googling stuff to get whatever information I could.
Nissan Parts zone lists the gauge clusters always starting with 24820-XXXX.
For example: 24820-CF40C.
I searched and searched and discovered there are dozens of different P/Ns out there to cover all the different trim packages and countries these Zs were sold in. Ultimately I just asked the wrecker I bought my used cluster from if the Z he pulled it from had cruise control. It was a roadster model and I think all the roadsters had CC. Once he confirmed that indeed it had the cruise control switches on the steering wheel, I made him an offer and got the cluster for $100.00.
The one major downside to replacing the cluster, besides having to take the damned thing apart, is re-programming it for the proper mileage reading. The used cluster I bought had much higher mileage on it than my own Z. There are specialized shops out there that do this kind of work, but you have to fill out some legal form and pay for the work. In my case I used Palo Alto Speedometer. They do fine work, mostly for classic or exotic cars, but they are local and offered me the convenience of drop-off and pickup, I didn't want to deal with the delays of shipping. The cost for the re-program was $175.00 which is highway robbery in my opinion since others on here have been quoted less than $75.00 with other shops. (seriously, $175.00 for a few min of work? I imagine these cluster re-programmers are practically 1-button and your done kinda thing). But that's what you get in Palo Alto CA.
Anyway, try googling the P/N on the cluster you're interested in with 24820 followed by the stickered number on the cluster. You will at least get the year information and whether or not it was for an MT or AT. Sometimes you get the trim package information as well.
Hope this helps and good luck! My cruise control is still working flawlessly and so is my gauge cluster. It was a hassle and a lot of work to swap the cluster. But to me at least, its been worth the struggle.
-Mark
I ran into the same issue when I was looking for a gauge cluster online to swap with. What I did was use the P/N data which is printed on a sticker stuck on the bottom of the housing/cluster. For example CF40C/14LG. Then I started googling stuff to get whatever information I could.
Nissan Parts zone lists the gauge clusters always starting with 24820-XXXX.
For example: 24820-CF40C.
I searched and searched and discovered there are dozens of different P/Ns out there to cover all the different trim packages and countries these Zs were sold in. Ultimately I just asked the wrecker I bought my used cluster from if the Z he pulled it from had cruise control. It was a roadster model and I think all the roadsters had CC. Once he confirmed that indeed it had the cruise control switches on the steering wheel, I made him an offer and got the cluster for $100.00.
The one major downside to replacing the cluster, besides having to take the damned thing apart, is re-programming it for the proper mileage reading. The used cluster I bought had much higher mileage on it than my own Z. There are specialized shops out there that do this kind of work, but you have to fill out some legal form and pay for the work. In my case I used Palo Alto Speedometer. They do fine work, mostly for classic or exotic cars, but they are local and offered me the convenience of drop-off and pickup, I didn't want to deal with the delays of shipping. The cost for the re-program was $175.00 which is highway robbery in my opinion since others on here have been quoted less than $75.00 with other shops. (seriously, $175.00 for a few min of work? I imagine these cluster re-programmers are practically 1-button and your done kinda thing). But that's what you get in Palo Alto CA.
Anyway, try googling the P/N on the cluster you're interested in with 24820 followed by the stickered number on the cluster. You will at least get the year information and whether or not it was for an MT or AT. Sometimes you get the trim package information as well.
Hope this helps and good luck! My cruise control is still working flawlessly and so is my gauge cluster. It was a hassle and a lot of work to swap the cluster. But to me at least, its been worth the struggle.
-Mark
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: ...
I'm looking at doing this on my 2006. I have a simple question: due to my RevUp tune, my redline is much higher now and I was wondering if I could install a gauge cluster from a 2007 or 2008 (to get the redline area in the correct location)?
. Good luck with your project thought.
@mwcarrol
If you have a 2006 350Z( a.k.a. VQ35DE-V2 or Revup engine), then your cluster should indicate a redline at 7000RPM. I'm not sure if this still applies with Auto Transmissions(I think autos are 6500?). An "Uprev" tune will not increase your redline, sure you can increase the Rev limiter, but I wouldn't recommend this unless you're engine is built for it. The HR engines I think redline at 7500RPM. Not a huge difference. Also, the gauge panel (with all the needle indicators, etc) is a separate piece from the main cluster. So if you're happy with your current cluster, all you would need to do is swap out the gauge panel. Once you take apart a cluster, you'll know what I mean, sorry if I'm not being descriptive enough. Just be very careful when doing so, that panel (which is what the needles sit directly over) is very easily scratched or discolored. I highly recommend using washed nitrile gloves while working on your cluster. Also do it on a soft/padded surface with tools that are wrapped in electrical tape or something else to keep them from scratching the cluster housing.
The cluster will still work. As others have said, black out the TCS and SLIP LEDs on the cluster before re-installing.
Another handy note. Having these LEDs on won't mess with CA SMOG check. I was a little worried about it possibly throwing a code and automatically causing me to fail. But I just had my car smogged a month back and everything was cool.
If you have a 2006 350Z( a.k.a. VQ35DE-V2 or Revup engine), then your cluster should indicate a redline at 7000RPM. I'm not sure if this still applies with Auto Transmissions(I think autos are 6500?). An "Uprev" tune will not increase your redline, sure you can increase the Rev limiter, but I wouldn't recommend this unless you're engine is built for it. The HR engines I think redline at 7500RPM. Not a huge difference. Also, the gauge panel (with all the needle indicators, etc) is a separate piece from the main cluster. So if you're happy with your current cluster, all you would need to do is swap out the gauge panel. Once you take apart a cluster, you'll know what I mean, sorry if I'm not being descriptive enough. Just be very careful when doing so, that panel (which is what the needles sit directly over) is very easily scratched or discolored. I highly recommend using washed nitrile gloves while working on your cluster. Also do it on a soft/padded surface with tools that are wrapped in electrical tape or something else to keep them from scratching the cluster housing.
The cluster will still work. As others have said, black out the TCS and SLIP LEDs on the cluster before re-installing.
Another handy note. Having these LEDs on won't mess with CA SMOG check. I was a little worried about it possibly throwing a code and automatically causing me to fail. But I just had my car smogged a month back and everything was cool.
Last edited by icer5160; Mar 12, 2014 at 06:47 PM.