Thanks again for the info! I'm still having some trouble finding a compatible gauge cluster. One thing I'm not 100% on. Did all the 350Zs that came with Cruise Control also have TCS? Or is it possible to have a Z without TCS but with Cruise Control? (not including us of course)

I'm very surprised how many wreckers/salvage yards out there don't list the vehicle specifics when selling a gauge cluster. Half don't even bother to mention if it's for an AT or MT.

 

Check car-part.com. Look up instrument panel and Speedo for items. Best thing since sliced bread for finding used car parts.

 

Thanks again! There's some good leads on there. I did a little research and it looks like Cruise Control was offered on the 2006 Enthusiast, touring, and grand touring....which all include TCS, so I guess that answers my other question.

 

Edit : Sold

 

im looking for the switches that goes on the pedals for cruise to do the conversion, are selling those too?

 

I found myself a used Cluster out of a 2006 Roadster on ebay for $100. Not a bad deal. The housing was completely wasted, but the PCB is fully functional. I plasti dipped the TCS and SLIP leds and reinstalled the board back into my perfect housing.(The housing scratches incredibly easily. I highly recommend using Nitrile gloves and covering all your tools with electrical tape when doing this. Make sure to keep your housing parts on a soft, clean surface. I used a clean bath towel.)

Quick question that no one has covered yet:
What's the best way to re-install the gauge cluster needles?

I found this step to be the biggest pain. I wrongfully assumed that when the gauge cluster is "off" or not hooked up, that the needle motors would go to a natural "neutral" position. Only after hooking it back up did I realize how wrong I was when my gauge readings were completely out of spec.

I ended up over doubling my time spent on this, having to take everything apart again and then reinstall the needles while the engine was running. The temp needle was easy. I had to top my tank off for an accurate Fuel reading. The speedo was a pain! I had to drive at a constant speed while installing the needle to get that right. I used my center console LCD to show me my current speed to get things perfect. I made a an educated case on the RPM needle basing it off what I remember my warmed up idle to be. Everything came out right except my RPM, I think it's 100 or so RPM too high.

Is there a simpler way? Ian what did you do?

Otherwise, I have everything ready to go. I'm just waiting on my Uprev Tuner to give me a ring and tell me he's ready for the reflash. Should be done before Friday.
-Icer

 

I took photos of the needle positions at fully warmed up for the fuel, oil pressure, coolant temp, and voltage before taking anything apart. Once swapped i warmed the car up with a 10 mile drive then set the needles to the photo.

For the engine speed I set the shift marker to 3k and set the needle while very slowly creeping up on it in 2nd gear (it will flash rapidly a couple hundred rpms early then solid at tge setpoint). I also reset at 7k rpms. Interestingly the idle point and 3k rpms are a bit off compared to original cluster, cipher and shift light , but dead on at 7k to 7500 rpm rev limiter (which is the only really important point anyways.).

Speedometer I set using my newly acquired cruise control and the digital read out on the triple cluster gauge.

 

Ok, good to know I'm not the only one who jumped through a few hoops for this

I thought about the rev indicator light after I put everything back together. But for 100 RPM difference, I don't think I'll bother tinkering with it again. Removing the housing without scratching it is a very tedious process.

Taking pictures of everything is what I should have done. Good call on that.
-Icer

 

Success! I now have fully functional cruise control and map switching. Gauge cluster lights work perfectly. Thanks to all who contributed to the knowledge base on this. Without your research and documentation I would still be a sad panda without CC.
-Icer

 

Just wanted to say I did this in my 2007, bought the same parts as the other 06+ guys, I used MAC Autosports in Englewood. CO for my Uprev rom switch. They installed the ev12c rom as they said this was the lastest Nissan revision for the 2007 ecus, and where more than willing to help with this. Cruise is working flawlessly(with the exception of the cruise and set lights) I may or may not pursue getting the cluster lights to work. Here is my cost breakdown.

Steering Wheel Controls, Brake Switch, and Clutch Switch new from Courtesy Parts
$129.03 with shipping

Uprev Licensing Fee through MAC Autosports
$324 with tax

MAC Autosports one hour of shop time @ $90 an hour
$90

Total
$543.03

Not bad in my opinion considering the $324 for the Uprev license I was gonna spend anyways, only $219.03 additional on costs on top of what I planned on spending. Thanks to all that explored this road ahead without anyone to figure it out for them. I greatly appreciate it.

 

I have a base model 2007 Z and I want cruise control. I can handle installing the components on my own but I am wondering the best course of action for the ECU issue. Could I buy an ECU that already had cruise on eBay and get this to work? Wouldn't it mess up the keyless entry or other things? I have no desire to tune my Z so I don't get a benefit from an Uprev tune. I also don't prefer traction control but I guess if another ECU is the best bet I could make due.

 

Ecu is more than a tune. Nats won't let your car start without a costly trip to a dealer. Many tuners will just do cruise for 50 or so.

All of this has been covered over & over in this & other threads here.

 

I don't know of a tuner nearby that does it that's why I looked at getting ecu. Plus, if I got ecu, I'd of course sell my old one so it wouldn't be that much money. If I mail it off, then I'd be out of a ride. Do you guys know of a trustworthy, and fast person who does mail in's? I'd hope it'd take them less than a week not counting shipping time.

 

Contact Tim @ Xact Dyno in Tempe. He will do just cruise. Tell him Stefan referred you.

 

You need the Uprev license to disable NATs with an ECU swap so its just the same as getting cruise enabled on yours. That's only $300, no need to get a full tune if you don't want to.

 

ok guys, maybe a little bit of topic it's about uprev anyways.

Soon i will buy up-rev the intermediate version. But here in my country someone is selling the tuner version ($700) on 450. The other one costs the same, but saves me the tuning pita. My car is close to stock, just few bolt-ons, more in the way later. The reason why i want/need uprev is to turn off the CEL cuz of the HFC's by tuning the A/F ratio correctly and well, unlocking as much power i can with what i have. so which one?

 

if you can get the standard our tuner for the same price then I would suggest the tuner. you can always get an Etune if you need a starting point.

 

delete

 

I have a question, there's a guy by me who has a wrecked 2005 350z that he's parting out. Would i be able to use the switches/controls from his on my base 2008? Thanks guys

 

I'm pretty sure the steering wheel controls are different between 03-06 and 07+.

The pedal switches would likely be interchangeable.