Z Hitch Prototype
08-15-2006, 12:27 PM
#161
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I use Hoppy P/N 46255 - Completely isolates tow vehicle from trailer malfunctions. Power is taken directly from the battery.
The Nissan TSB covering wiring of the 350Z and Altima require the use of this style converter. There is no Nissan part.
Since these draw (practically) no current from the existing wiring (just read the voltage level) they are suitable for the 2006s LED Tail lamp assemblies.
Only downside is that you have to feed the source power wire all the way back to the battery, which takes some time to fish along the driver's side interior and through the firewall.
The Nissan TSB covering wiring of the 350Z and Altima require the use of this style converter. There is no Nissan part.
Since these draw (practically) no current from the existing wiring (just read the voltage level) they are suitable for the 2006s LED Tail lamp assemblies.
Only downside is that you have to feed the source power wire all the way back to the battery, which takes some time to fish along the driver's side interior and through the firewall.
Originally Posted by PaulN
I've seen references to the Hoppy converters and something from Nissan. Can someone post the respective part numbers of these converters?
Also, if anyone's done this with a 2006 Z, I'd like to hear of any gotchas waiting for me.
Thanks,
Paul
Also, if anyone's done this with a 2006 Z, I'd like to hear of any gotchas waiting for me.
Thanks,
Paul
08-15-2006, 01:04 PM
#162
Originally Posted by roark
I use Hoppy P/N 46255 - Completely isolates tow vehicle from trailer malfunctions. Power is taken directly from the battery.
...
Only downside is that you have to feed the source power wire all the way back to the battery, which takes some time to fish along the driver's side interior and through the firewall.
...
Only downside is that you have to feed the source power wire all the way back to the battery, which takes some time to fish along the driver's side interior and through the firewall.
Just make sure that you have some cord molding to protect that 12V from contacting ground!
08-15-2006, 01:11 PM
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Jim,
Did you get my PM about the heavy-duty hitch you designed? I've realized that using that with a hitch-mounted cargo carrier like this one would be a lot more convenient (and cost-effective) for me than a trailer, since I don't have a good place to store a trailer.
Considering the weak interest recently in the trailer hitch, it also might be of interest to other guys here who are in the same situation. As I mentioned in my last PM, I'd be happy to be your guinea pig to refine the frame hitch.
But if you're not interested in doing the development on it yourself, would you consider selling me your plans so I could find a fabricator to make one for my own use? (I'm not interested in going into the business of making them for others.)
Please e-mail me at editor (at) LFexaminer.com.
Thanks.
Did you get my PM about the heavy-duty hitch you designed? I've realized that using that with a hitch-mounted cargo carrier like this one would be a lot more convenient (and cost-effective) for me than a trailer, since I don't have a good place to store a trailer.
Considering the weak interest recently in the trailer hitch, it also might be of interest to other guys here who are in the same situation. As I mentioned in my last PM, I'd be happy to be your guinea pig to refine the frame hitch.
But if you're not interested in doing the development on it yourself, would you consider selling me your plans so I could find a fabricator to make one for my own use? (I'm not interested in going into the business of making them for others.)
Please e-mail me at editor (at) LFexaminer.com.
Thanks.
08-16-2006, 07:59 AM
#164
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I meant passenger side. I've gotta stop those binge drunk posts.... Friends don't let friends drink and type.
Originally Posted by PDX_Racer
Why go down the driver's side? I ran mine down the passenger side, and other than getting the wire over the "B pillar box" (where the gas tank and storage box are) it was really very easy to run the wire directly from the battery to the back of the car.
Just make sure that you have some cord molding to protect that 12V from contacting ground!
Just make sure that you have some cord molding to protect that 12V from contacting ground!
08-16-2006, 09:33 AM
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Gone (wire) Fishin'
Originally Posted by roark
I meant passenger side. I've gotta stop those binge drunk posts.... Friends don't let friends drink and type.
Paul
08-19-2006, 07:28 PM
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So can anybody verify if
a) this thing is still selling?
b) it can tow a bike 350 lbs? on a 4x8 to 5x8 trailer?
thanks..
PS: What's the maximum the lowest one can tow?
a) this thing is still selling?
b) it can tow a bike 350 lbs? on a 4x8 to 5x8 trailer?
thanks..
PS: What's the maximum the lowest one can tow?
08-20-2006, 11:22 AM
#169
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Originally Posted by BlackWidow87
So can anybody verify if
a) this thing is still selling?
b) it can tow a bike 350 lbs? on a 4x8 to 5x8 trailer?
thanks..
PS: What's the maximum the lowest one can tow?
a) this thing is still selling?
b) it can tow a bike 350 lbs? on a 4x8 to 5x8 trailer?
thanks..
PS: What's the maximum the lowest one can tow?
i believe due to his schedule, fabrication will not begin till november.
sign up!
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....81#post2474681
11-09-2006, 08:45 PM
#172
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I'm no longer going to sell this hitch.
I brought the Z to a local custom hitch installer this week because I felt like I wanted a sturdier solution. He said that when he took off the rear bumper shell he saw that the aluminum bumper rail that the hitch was attached to was about to fail. I'm pretty lucky I brought it into him when I did as I probably would have lost my trailer this weekend if I used the hitch.
My new hitch is very professional. It attaches to the frame via bolts and welds. The reciever is flush with the bumper and comes out through a small cutout at the bottom of the bumper.
At any rate, I'm thinking that this hitch is best suited for bicycle racks but not long distance trailering.
Be safe.
Dave
I brought the Z to a local custom hitch installer this week because I felt like I wanted a sturdier solution. He said that when he took off the rear bumper shell he saw that the aluminum bumper rail that the hitch was attached to was about to fail. I'm pretty lucky I brought it into him when I did as I probably would have lost my trailer this weekend if I used the hitch.
My new hitch is very professional. It attaches to the frame via bolts and welds. The reciever is flush with the bumper and comes out through a small cutout at the bottom of the bumper.
At any rate, I'm thinking that this hitch is best suited for bicycle racks but not long distance trailering.
Be safe.
Dave
11-09-2006, 09:04 PM
#173
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Originally Posted by daveh
I'm no longer going to sell this hitch.
I brought the Z to a local custom hitch installer this week because I felt like I wanted a sturdier solution. He said that when he took off the rear bumper shell he saw that the aluminum bumper rail that the hitch was attached to was about to fail. I'm pretty lucky I brought it into him when I did as I probably would have lost my trailer this weekend if I used the hitch.
My new hitch is very professional. It attaches to the frame via bolts and welds. The reciever is flush with the bumper and comes out through a small cutout at the bottom of the bumper.
At any rate, I'm thinking that this hitch is best suited for bicycle racks but not long distance trailering.
Be safe.
Dave
I brought the Z to a local custom hitch installer this week because I felt like I wanted a sturdier solution. He said that when he took off the rear bumper shell he saw that the aluminum bumper rail that the hitch was attached to was about to fail. I'm pretty lucky I brought it into him when I did as I probably would have lost my trailer this weekend if I used the hitch.
My new hitch is very professional. It attaches to the frame via bolts and welds. The reciever is flush with the bumper and comes out through a small cutout at the bottom of the bumper.
At any rate, I'm thinking that this hitch is best suited for bicycle racks but not long distance trailering.
Be safe.
Dave
11-10-2006, 07:21 PM
#174
Originally Posted by daveh
I'm no longer going to sell this hitch.
I brought the Z to a local custom hitch installer this week because I felt like I wanted a sturdier solution. He said that when he took off the rear bumper shell he saw that the aluminum bumper rail that the hitch was attached to was about to fail. I'm pretty lucky I brought it into him when I did as I probably would have lost my trailer this weekend if I used the hitch.
My new hitch is very professional. It attaches to the frame via bolts and welds. The reciever is flush with the bumper and comes out through a small cutout at the bottom of the bumper.
At any rate, I'm thinking that this hitch is best suited for bicycle racks but not long distance trailering.
Be safe.
Dave
I brought the Z to a local custom hitch installer this week because I felt like I wanted a sturdier solution. He said that when he took off the rear bumper shell he saw that the aluminum bumper rail that the hitch was attached to was about to fail. I'm pretty lucky I brought it into him when I did as I probably would have lost my trailer this weekend if I used the hitch.
My new hitch is very professional. It attaches to the frame via bolts and welds. The reciever is flush with the bumper and comes out through a small cutout at the bottom of the bumper.
At any rate, I'm thinking that this hitch is best suited for bicycle racks but not long distance trailering.
Be safe.
Dave
Can you be more specific about what on the bumper was about to fail. I've been rear-ended with the hitch on and the bumper was fine.
11-12-2006, 07:01 PM
#177
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I also had the brackets seam welded when I did the original install. This is not where mine cracked. Mine cracked where the aluminum bumper bolts into the car. I am towing the cheapie harbor freight trailer which I'm assuming weighs less than 400lbs fully loaded. I've got the weight pretty evenly distributed so the tongue weight is minimal.
As for the U-haul hitch, it's basically the same as this one.
As for the U-haul hitch, it's basically the same as this one.
11-12-2006, 07:19 PM
#178
Originally Posted by daveh
I also had the brackets seam welded when I did the original install. This is not where mine cracked. Mine cracked where the aluminum bumper bolts into the car. I am towing the cheapie harbor freight trailer which I'm assuming weighs less than 400lbs fully loaded. I've got the weight pretty evenly distributed so the tongue weight is minimal.
As for the U-haul hitch, it's basically the same as this one.
As for the U-haul hitch, it's basically the same as this one.
The hitch "sandwiches" the bumper reinforcement, which mounts to the bumper reinforcement brackets, which mount to the unibody.
So are you saying that the bumper reinforcement itself cracked?
11-12-2006, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by PDX_Racer
Huh?
The hitch "sandwiches" the bumper reinforcement, which mounts to the bumper reinforcement brackets, which mount to the unibody.
So are you saying that the bumper reinforcement itself cracked?
The hitch "sandwiches" the bumper reinforcement, which mounts to the bumper reinforcement brackets, which mount to the unibody.
So are you saying that the bumper reinforcement itself cracked?