Should I change brake pads before or after auto-x?
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From: Villanova University
Should I change brake pads before or after auto-x?
Well I probably wont break the pads in before auto-x
lol...
I will be running with dying pads ...
Any suggestions or comments?
New pads i am going to get - Project Mu Bforce non-brembo
lol...
I will be running with dying pads ...
Any suggestions or comments?
New pads i am going to get - Project Mu Bforce non-brembo
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From: Savannah, GA
no no no! It's very important that you DON'T come to a full stop when bedding in brake pads. The whole idea is to heat the pads to adhesion temperature and then deposit a layer of brake pad material on the rotor. I found a white paper on stoptech about bedding in pads, and now I can't find it, but the procedure they outlined for high performance street pads was:
10 stops in a row, 60-10 mph. Go for a drive, (I recommend the interstate) as fast as you can practically and long enough to let the brakes cool to ambient temperature. Until they are cool, do your best not to completely stop the car while the brakes are engaged. Cooling them takes longer than you may think. I burnt the hell out of my fingertips checking the rotors to see if they'd cooled off. These stops are to deposit that layer of brake pad on to the rotor. If done right, you should see a thin grey haze on the rotor.
Once they are cooled, do another series of stops, just like the first. 60-10 mph, again, don't let the car come to a complete stop. This is to cook off some of the resin in the brake pads. Again, let the brakes cool by driving around.
When you do those stops, at first your braking force will increase a little bit (first couple), then it'll begin to fade and you'll smell your brakes. That's normal according to the paper. I checked my pads afterwards as well to make sure they were ok, and they didn't get cooked.
That's what I did with my project mu's, and it worked well, no squeaks yet. The hardest part is just finding a place that you can do 10 60-10 hard stops in a row!
10 stops in a row, 60-10 mph. Go for a drive, (I recommend the interstate) as fast as you can practically and long enough to let the brakes cool to ambient temperature. Until they are cool, do your best not to completely stop the car while the brakes are engaged. Cooling them takes longer than you may think. I burnt the hell out of my fingertips checking the rotors to see if they'd cooled off. These stops are to deposit that layer of brake pad on to the rotor. If done right, you should see a thin grey haze on the rotor.
Once they are cooled, do another series of stops, just like the first. 60-10 mph, again, don't let the car come to a complete stop. This is to cook off some of the resin in the brake pads. Again, let the brakes cool by driving around.
When you do those stops, at first your braking force will increase a little bit (first couple), then it'll begin to fade and you'll smell your brakes. That's normal according to the paper. I checked my pads afterwards as well to make sure they were ok, and they didn't get cooked.
That's what I did with my project mu's, and it worked well, no squeaks yet. The hardest part is just finding a place that you can do 10 60-10 hard stops in a row!
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From: Villanova University
Originally Posted by Mr.Jadkowski
no no no! It's very important that you DON'T come to a full stop when bedding in brake pads. The whole idea is to heat the pads to adhesion temperature and then deposit a layer of brake pad material on the rotor. I found a white paper on stoptech about bedding in pads, and now I can't find it, but the procedure they outlined for high performance street pads was:
10 stops in a row, 60-10 mph. Go for a drive, (I recommend the interstate) as fast as you can practically and long enough to let the brakes cool to ambient temperature. Until they are cool, do your best not to completely stop the car while the brakes are engaged. Cooling them takes longer than you may think. I burnt the hell out of my fingertips checking the rotors to see if they'd cooled off. These stops are to deposit that layer of brake pad on to the rotor. If done right, you should see a thin grey haze on the rotor.
Once they are cooled, do another series of stops, just like the first. 60-10 mph, again, don't let the car come to a complete stop. This is to cook off some of the resin in the brake pads. Again, let the brakes cool by driving around.
When you do those stops, at first your braking force will increase a little bit (first couple), then it'll begin to fade and you'll smell your brakes. That's normal according to the paper. I checked my pads afterwards as well to make sure they were ok, and they didn't get cooked.
That's what I did with my project mu's, and it worked well, no squeaks yet. The hardest part is just finding a place that you can do 10 60-10 hard stops in a row!
10 stops in a row, 60-10 mph. Go for a drive, (I recommend the interstate) as fast as you can practically and long enough to let the brakes cool to ambient temperature. Until they are cool, do your best not to completely stop the car while the brakes are engaged. Cooling them takes longer than you may think. I burnt the hell out of my fingertips checking the rotors to see if they'd cooled off. These stops are to deposit that layer of brake pad on to the rotor. If done right, you should see a thin grey haze on the rotor.
Once they are cooled, do another series of stops, just like the first. 60-10 mph, again, don't let the car come to a complete stop. This is to cook off some of the resin in the brake pads. Again, let the brakes cool by driving around.
When you do those stops, at first your braking force will increase a little bit (first couple), then it'll begin to fade and you'll smell your brakes. That's normal according to the paper. I checked my pads afterwards as well to make sure they were ok, and they didn't get cooked.
That's what I did with my project mu's, and it worked well, no squeaks yet. The hardest part is just finding a place that you can do 10 60-10 hard stops in a row!
I think in the middle of the night in the national park (valley forge) would be possible
Thanks for info
You got the B-force or the N(something)?
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on these site i found a bether understanding on how to bed in the brakes
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
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