dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

EDIT: Decided I want an enclosed, see post below).

Tired of borrowing a buddy's trailer to take the Z to events. My wish list:

* Lower / easier to get on/off (my poor poor bumper) - or just longer ramps lol?
* Lighter weight would help w/ gas when it comes to towing (5.4L gas F150), or is it negligible?
* Tire/Wheel rack (no need for a toolbox, that's on the truck).
* Battery box + winch. Driving up is great... when your car runs
* Relatively maint. free aside from normal inspection / wear-tear stuff

Any suggestions on brands, models, types I should be starting with? It seems like a big investment, I could use some advice...

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

First, consider getting a trailer with a beavertail ramp. It will really make getting the Z on and off the trailer a TON easier.

There's no specific suggestion I can make for a brand of trailer, but getting an anti-sway hitch will really help no matter what kind of trailer you decide on. I bought a 24' enclosed trailer (with tire rack, room for spares, tools and winch) back in the 90's and have always been glad I made the investment.

six3mike

iTrader: (19)

I agree with the beaver tail ramp. My trailer has two individual ramps and it sucks loading and unloading. But I got a good deal on it so I cant complain.

dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

yeah, the one I have to borrow/use now is 2 separate ramps (that clearly aren't long enough, poor poor bumper!!!)

mhoward1

For lower cars, the pull out ramps seem to work best, especially with a beavertail. The pull out ones ten to be over 6' or more while the pull up ramps are 5' or less.

Other items to keep in mind. Get true electric brakes and not surge brakes, they work much better. The lighter the trailer, the more you can to. For cars, make sure the double axle centerline is around 55% to rear. Equipment trailers are greater because there weight is distributed differently than cars.

six3mike

iTrader: (19)

I saw some ramps at Wal Mart that havean arch to them. I think they were 6or 7 feet. Anyone ever use those. The rear part of my side skirts rub when I load my car with the flat ramps so I'm wondering if these would help with that. I have to take my front bumper off regardless.

mhoward1

No expirence with those, but Northern tool carries ramp extenders that work very well.

Rogue350z

iTrader: (10)

Texas Rollback. Awesome trailer.

http://www.texasrollback.net/index.html

Watch DEMO:
http://www.coopercorvettes.com/texastrailers.htm

betamotorsports

iTrader: (1)

I've used a Featherlite 3110 aluminum open trailer for about 8 years. Great trailer, never had a problem. Ideally look for torsion axles (better ride and a lower deck), four wheel electric brakes, 2 5/16" coupler, and wiring that runs through rubber grommets/conduit under the trailer.

The Texas Rollback trailer is very ncie but, having used one, it has the same clearance issues with lowered cars that ramp trailers have. The advantage the TR has is that it eliminates the breakover scrape point. If your race car does not have an emergeny brake I wouldn't use a TR.

z-u-later

iTrader: (43)

You can achieve the same results of the Texas Rollback with a standard trailer & pull out ramps. All you need is a set of car ramps available at Walmart, Autozone or Pep Boys. Place the car ramps behind the rear tires of your tow vehicle. With the trailer still attached, backup the tow vehicle up the car ramp. Once the tow vehicle is on the car ramp, the trailer should be angled like a Texas Rollback trailer. Now, you can easily load the car on the trailer without any scraping issues.

dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

I saw someone using that "ramp trick" at yesterday's event, seemed... kinda sketchy, but clever.

mhoward1

It's a common practice to lower the rear of the trailer and reduce the angle

MoodDude

As far as open vs enclosed trailers go, an open trailer will get you much better gas milage, where as the enclosed will lock up everything and keep rocks from hitting the Z while on the road. I went with an open trailer since gas is so high, plus with an open center I can work under the car without jacking the car up.

A few other things to keep in mind, 1. get a trailer with a dove tail 2. if you get an open trailer make sure the driver side fender is hinged or removable so you can get out of the Z when you pull her on.

dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

I can't afford an enclosed - both purchase and towing wise.

dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

... or maybe I can. I've been shopping around a bit, have some more questions:

After reading through a number of threads on Rennlist and other forums I think I have most of my "basic" questions answered about buying an enclosed trailer. Here's a few things I was wondering if someone could shed some light on:

MTI aka Middlebury Trailers Inc - anyone buy one of these? Are they good? In my limited local shopping I looked at an 18' and 20' and was suitably impressed but I'm also a self-professed trailer n00b so "looks good" to me doesn't mean much.

I'll be towing with my 07 F150 (gas 5.4 v8) and the owner of the local trailer place said I'd be ok up to 24' but that 20 is probably more ideal weight wise. I wish I had a budget for an all-aluminum but if I had that much cash I'd also probably have an F350 or F450 or similar lol, so that's way out of the question. Is this correct, that I should be ok with my truck and that size/weight?

Insurance - my insurance company will add the trailer for a whopping $33/yr which is nice, but what do I do about insuring the CAR. I was hoping to take it off the road completely as it's never street driven, but from reading the Rennlist thread Chris from ProSure.net posted it seems I have to maintain street registration / insurance?? I'm not so much worried about stuffing the car - it's just for DEs now and PCA's Yellow/Blue seems a cautious enough group - but more like "what if someone hits me w/o insurance" or "what it vandals burn it down in a parking lot" or what have you.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Monsta

iTrader: (10)

Is that the type of ramp like a utility trailer? Like the single axle trailers sold at Lowes/Home Depot?

dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

(not the best pic, ala ebay lol)

the idea is the back is sloped down to meet the ramp(s) - makes loading a lowered car SOOOO MUCH easier.

looked at an 18-footer that seemed pretty nice, Cargo Express, 8.5 "widebody" - plenty of room for tires etc up front even with the car loaded.