heating problems, diff and rear brakes
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heating problems, diff and rear brakes
ok guys... quick questions for you:
how did you solved for the diff fluid boiling in fast tracks? (~100F)
I have the nismo finned cover and a cusco RS diff.
than... front brakes are pretty much ok.. (a little warped... but nothing serious).. but the rear.. the paint on the brembo become dark bronze, the logo black (from red)... is that normal? I still have the dust cover in the rear... cutting it off helps?
I'm using actually ferodo ds2500, ate superblue and goodrich lines... and no fading... just this color change... seals are ok.
( I made the search about the diff.. and some of you put a longer hose on top of the diff... but can't see where is connected on the other side.. I found where is on top of the cover)
anybody installed a diff cooler with a pump (I found tilton makes some) and a setrab cooler???
how did you solved for the diff fluid boiling in fast tracks? (~100F)
I have the nismo finned cover and a cusco RS diff.
than... front brakes are pretty much ok.. (a little warped... but nothing serious).. but the rear.. the paint on the brembo become dark bronze, the logo black (from red)... is that normal? I still have the dust cover in the rear... cutting it off helps?
I'm using actually ferodo ds2500, ate superblue and goodrich lines... and no fading... just this color change... seals are ok.
( I made the search about the diff.. and some of you put a longer hose on top of the diff... but can't see where is connected on the other side.. I found where is on top of the cover)
anybody installed a diff cooler with a pump (I found tilton makes some) and a setrab cooler???
Yes, discoloration is normal after some heaving tracking on the calipers. I would definitely remove the heat shields front and rear. It will only help.
As for the diff, I haven't had any issues since I started using Motul fluid. No boiling over anymore.
As for the diff, I haven't had any issues since I started using Motul fluid. No boiling over anymore.
^ same here. I switched to mobil 1 diff fluid and built a little catch can with a baby bottle. Easy to install but it has zero fluid in it once I swapped to Mobil1. It boiled over with motul and dealer oil but none so far with the current oil. I have amsoil for the next change.
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I would not recommend removing the heat shield...with the increased heat you can kiss your ABS sensor goodbye and (possibly) also shorten the life of your CV boots and wheel bearings. They are there for a reason.
They are not heat shields they are dust shields. You can remove them without issue. I removed mine and I run at Sebring where I reach speeds near 185mph in 98 degree FL heat and don't have an issue. Stoptech also has you remove these when installing one of their rear kits.
Check the thickness of the pads. If they are 1/2 worn or more heat tranfers more easilly into the caliper. Try using titanium backing plates.
I use lower tourque pads on the rear than I do on the front. I use hawk DT-70's on the front and DT-60's on the rear. My Brembo's never turned color.
Check the thickness of the pads. If they are 1/2 worn or more heat tranfers more easilly into the caliper. Try using titanium backing plates.
I use lower tourque pads on the rear than I do on the front. I use hawk DT-70's on the front and DT-60's on the rear. My Brembo's never turned color.
Last edited by JETPILOT; Sep 4, 2008 at 09:10 PM.
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Originally Posted by mistico
^ same here. I switched to mobil 1 diff fluid and built a little catch can with a baby bottle. Easy to install but it has zero fluid in it once I swapped to Mobil1.
Last edited by Ataru074; Sep 5, 2008 at 04:13 AM.
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Originally Posted by JETPILOT
Check the thickness of the pads. If they are 1/2 worn or more heat tranfers more easilly into the caliper. Try using titanium backing plates.
I use lower tourque pads on the rear than I do on the front. I use hawk DT-70's on the front and DT-60's on the rear. My Brembo's never turned color.
I use lower tourque pads on the rear than I do on the front. I use hawk DT-70's on the front and DT-60's on the rear. My Brembo's never turned color.
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If you're not discoloring your calipers, you're not going fast enough 
Good job!
I had much less overflow when I switched to motul as well. The brilliant engineers at Nissan routed the overflow hose to the rear subframe. Eventualy you will have oil leaking out near your rear spring. The biggest help for me was to just replace the stock hose from the diff with one about 3 feet long. I simply looped the hose a few times and routed it to nalgene bottle that I mounted on the subframe. The long hose catches most of the fluid and lets it flow back into the diff when things cool down.
Good job!I had much less overflow when I switched to motul as well. The brilliant engineers at Nissan routed the overflow hose to the rear subframe. Eventualy you will have oil leaking out near your rear spring. The biggest help for me was to just replace the stock hose from the diff with one about 3 feet long. I simply looped the hose a few times and routed it to nalgene bottle that I mounted on the subframe. The long hose catches most of the fluid and lets it flow back into the diff when things cool down.
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I'll eventually grab a 3 feet long hose... I guess my biggest problem was at texas world speedway... the hose and the banking are in the same direction... and my left suspension was flooded with diff fluid.
about rotors... do you guys go for the "baller" way and use stoptech aerorotors or just regolar stoptech (or whatever reasonably cheap) non floating replacements. (after 6 w/e mine are almost gone... front quite warped, I'm fixing them with couple of days of hawk blue)
about rotors... do you guys go for the "baller" way and use stoptech aerorotors or just regolar stoptech (or whatever reasonably cheap) non floating replacements. (after 6 w/e mine are almost gone... front quite warped, I'm fixing them with couple of days of hawk blue)
Originally Posted by daveh
If you're not discoloring your calipers, you're not going fast enough Good job!
I had much less overflow when I switched to motul as well. The brilliant engineers at Nissan routed the overflow hose to the rear subframe. Eventualy you will have oil leaking out near your rear spring. The biggest help for me was to just replace the stock hose from the diff with one about 3 feet long. I simply looped the hose a few times and routed it to nalgene bottle that I mounted on the subframe. The long hose catches most of the fluid and lets it flow back into the diff when things cool down.
Good job!I had much less overflow when I switched to motul as well. The brilliant engineers at Nissan routed the overflow hose to the rear subframe. Eventualy you will have oil leaking out near your rear spring. The biggest help for me was to just replace the stock hose from the diff with one about 3 feet long. I simply looped the hose a few times and routed it to nalgene bottle that I mounted on the subframe. The long hose catches most of the fluid and lets it flow back into the diff when things cool down.
How would I even tell if I'm burning up the diff fluid? I've never had a problem but then I wouldn't know what I'm looking for really.
Slightly off topic: I've had some coolant overheating problems at Texas Motor Speedway. Gauge sitting on H but not pegged off scale. Anyone try out that antifreeze additive that claims to lower coolant temps by 20C?
Slightly off topic: I've had some coolant overheating problems at Texas Motor Speedway. Gauge sitting on H but not pegged off scale. Anyone try out that antifreeze additive that claims to lower coolant temps by 20C?
You could go the route of most circle track racers and install a differential oil cooler system. A simple oil cooler and pump setup along with plumbing would be all you need. There are electric pumps on the market that would work fine. Just have to tap a couple of fittings into the housing or rear cover for pick up and return lines and plumb it all up.
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Originally Posted by bryan@Z1
You could go the route of most circle track racers and install a differential oil cooler system. A simple oil cooler and pump setup along with plumbing would be all you need. There are electric pumps on the market that would work fine. Just have to tap a couple of fittings into the housing or rear cover for pick up and return lines and plumb it all up.
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