request advice on adjusting Koni Sport Shorts
Alright, I just purchased some "Yellow" Koni Sport Shorts..now I need some advice on adjusting them.
I run NASA TT now, some pretty aggressive HPDE, with very little street driving .
I currently have WORN OUT STOCK SHOCKS (22K hard miles) F & R SPL camber arms, Hotchkis TVS kit, and run 17x10 Wheel with either 275/40 RA1s (HPDE) or Hankook 214 soft compound (TT)...And I like to run the sway bars on the soft-side setting, never full hard Front or rear..
So, where should I start?????...just run the shocks full-soft, and work up from there as needed?
I run NASA TT now, some pretty aggressive HPDE, with very little street driving .
I currently have WORN OUT STOCK SHOCKS (22K hard miles) F & R SPL camber arms, Hotchkis TVS kit, and run 17x10 Wheel with either 275/40 RA1s (HPDE) or Hankook 214 soft compound (TT)...And I like to run the sway bars on the soft-side setting, never full hard Front or rear..
So, where should I start?????...just run the shocks full-soft, and work up from there as needed?
Last edited by laze1; Oct 31, 2008 at 03:43 PM.
Start in the middle for the front and the rear. Then go up two clicks in the front and see if thats an improvement. If not go down three clicks. If the up setting was better go back to one click above your first change. Once you find what is the best sport for the front do the same with the rear going two clicks the first time up or down and then only make one click adjustments above or below that setting.
Keep records on what you are doing for each change.
Keep records on what you are doing for each change.
The fronts will 99% be adjustable on car, unless something very strange is going on.
The rears you may need to open the hole up in the top a bit to be able to get your fingers in to the adjuster.
Remember, shocks tune the way the weight transfers, and a stiffer axle will transfer more weight to the opposing axle during transient phases. Therefore if the car is too understeery on entry / exit = more rear damping or less front damping. Too loose on entry / exit = more front damping or less rear. usually adjust the axle that has the problem (loose = soften rear, tight = soften front)
Generally stiffen the car until the car starts to lose complience and starts skittering, then back off as bob mentioned. I also tend to find my car responds well to a lot of rear damping, esspecially in your case where i believe the yellows are doing MOSTLY a rebound adjustment, so a stiffer rear damper shouldn't affect power down ability much at all, but will help the car rotate into the corner a lot better.
Good luck!
The rears you may need to open the hole up in the top a bit to be able to get your fingers in to the adjuster.
Remember, shocks tune the way the weight transfers, and a stiffer axle will transfer more weight to the opposing axle during transient phases. Therefore if the car is too understeery on entry / exit = more rear damping or less front damping. Too loose on entry / exit = more front damping or less rear. usually adjust the axle that has the problem (loose = soften rear, tight = soften front)
Generally stiffen the car until the car starts to lose complience and starts skittering, then back off as bob mentioned. I also tend to find my car responds well to a lot of rear damping, esspecially in your case where i believe the yellows are doing MOSTLY a rebound adjustment, so a stiffer rear damper shouldn't affect power down ability much at all, but will help the car rotate into the corner a lot better.
Good luck!
Thnx. this info is very, very helpful
The fronts will 99% be adjustable on car, unless something very strange is going on.
The rears you may need to open the hole up in the top a bit to be able to get your fingers in to the adjuster.
Remember, shocks tune the way the weight transfers, and a stiffer axle will transfer more weight to the opposing axle during transient phases. Therefore if the car is too understeery on entry / exit = more rear damping or less front damping. Too loose on entry / exit = more front damping or less rear. usually adjust the axle that has the problem (loose = soften rear, tight = soften front)
Generally stiffen the car until the car starts to lose complience and starts skittering, then back off as bob mentioned. I also tend to find my car responds well to a lot of rear damping, esspecially in your case where i believe the yellows are doing MOSTLY a rebound adjustment, so a stiffer rear damper shouldn't affect power down ability much at all, but will help the car rotate into the corner a lot better.
Good luck!
The rears you may need to open the hole up in the top a bit to be able to get your fingers in to the adjuster.
Remember, shocks tune the way the weight transfers, and a stiffer axle will transfer more weight to the opposing axle during transient phases. Therefore if the car is too understeery on entry / exit = more rear damping or less front damping. Too loose on entry / exit = more front damping or less rear. usually adjust the axle that has the problem (loose = soften rear, tight = soften front)
Generally stiffen the car until the car starts to lose complience and starts skittering, then back off as bob mentioned. I also tend to find my car responds well to a lot of rear damping, esspecially in your case where i believe the yellows are doing MOSTLY a rebound adjustment, so a stiffer rear damper shouldn't affect power down ability much at all, but will help the car rotate into the corner a lot better.
Good luck!
thnx...good stuff!
Start in the middle for the front and the rear. Then go up two clicks in the front and see if thats an improvement. If not go down three clicks. If the up setting was better go back to one click above your first change. Once you find what is the best sport for the front do the same with the rear going two clicks the first time up or down and then only make one click adjustments above or below that setting.
Keep records on what you are doing for each change.
Keep records on what you are doing for each change.
You don't need to cut a hole to adjust the rear. Koni puts a sweep adjuster at the top of the rear shock that you can get to from inside the wheel well using a small hex key.
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OK, good! Thnx
I saw that method in the Koni online manual...looks like is will require removing the wheel, and bunch of small twist to adjust..but that is ok
I saw that method in the Koni online manual...looks like is will require removing the wheel, and bunch of small twist to adjust..but that is ok
No need to remove the wheel. With the rear wheels off the ground jacked from the diff pumpkin, you can fit your arm and a small hex wrench (or whatever else you see fit) in the slot and adjust the rears.
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