bdblackz

iTrader: (4)

Geez Rob, way to write a novel on this!! Glad to see you getting the hang of the Z.

Slow*Jim, what's up? Ross here. When are you letting missy drive your car? Just so i know to stay very far away from the course that day

Slow*Jim

iTrader: (5)

Ross! Hey man! She thinks she is driving it tomorrow but I just tell her that so she doesn't dump me

You need to come out to a NASA HPDE some time!

dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

I'd bet at least some of it is the fact that the 615 is easy to get to change from grippy to greasy vs the overall-lower-grip-but-harder RE040. Also check your tires pressures (likely too high?) - seems pretty normal reaction / behavior tho...

mw9

iTrader: (51)

You change you own camber. IF so what are you using?

Axelerate

iTrader: (19)

Yes, front only with SPL race spec A arms.

12AutoX

iTrader: (7)

I remember discovering and learning to use the "delay" from input to execution on my first open track day. What an epiphany. This is an informative thread- I never tried to track the Z on a square setup, and now I'm not sure that I would want to.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

It only takes one corner for them to get greasy, but they do cool down after about 2 or 3 corners. I run 37 hot front and 36 hot rear.

mhoward1

Remember that the OEM understeer setup is placed in there for safety and driver comfort. Most people are more comfortable with a car that pushed and scrubs off speed on it's won vs one that is loose and has a lot more rotation. It is a learning curve, and one that well all have to do if we change anything fundemental on the car we are use to driving.

But over all a loose car will be quicker once the driver is use to it and can properly rotate it. It will mean that you will have greater slip angles and at each corner exit you will be pointed in the right direction sooner allowing you to apply more throttle sooner.

Just have fun with it and slowly increase the spped back up. And have fun with it. I find a looser car to be more fun after a while. I good friend of mine once said

"I tight car scares the driver and please the passenger, a loose car pleases the driver and scares the passenger".

whitt1

Bridgestone is already producing the RE-11R as a replacement for the RE-01R,they are supposed to be a big improvement when they are introduced in the US,they've been available in Japan for about a year.

AznSky

iTrader: (12)

I think I see what you mean Marty. I can see a very experienced driver throw a neutral car into a corner faster than one with understeer. But for me to get to that level will take years. Oh well, this is only my first season and I'm pretty young (23) so I should have a lot of time ahead of me.

As for everybody commenting on the 615's, maybe they're a better autox tire than road course tire? My next tires will probably be R-01R's

There's a lot of really good info in this thread regarding what some ppl are saying about turn in points changing and such that I'll have to read more deeply to understand it all.

And I think Ed's idea of playing on a skidpad is an excellent idea to get an understanding of the vehicle's new dynamics. I've been trying to use autox courses for that, but it's totally killing my road course smoothness. So where am I gonna find a skid pad.........

mhoward1

I wouldn't be so sure it will take you years. It's just a matter that you are driving an almost a brand new car, so it will take some getting use to, especially one that isn't tuned to OEM specifications.

As far as skid pads, a lot of track day groups and HPDE's are now offering optional skidpad time, so I would check with the organizations you tipically register with.

dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

that's pretty much my take on them. I think the NT01 might be something to consider too if it's going to be on a set of "drive them to the track and back" wheels vs drive-everyday

Eagle1

iTrader: (2)

I think that is a point.
Two observations. 1) don't ever drive them on public roads in the wet. That means wet, moist surface, not even considering rain! 2) don't drive them on public roads (or most other R compounds) in temperatures below 45 F.

mario23

iTrader: (10)

Has anyone tried the Enkei Rpf1's 17X10 yet for a square setup?
I see they have a +15 and +38 offset I think.
I was wondering if these would fit.

first350

iTrader: (24)

I've got RPF1 18X10 +38 - I'm running a 15/10mm spacer to make things fit. (I have F295/35, R315/30's, w/ the fenders rolled)

the RPF1's are hard to beat for how much they weigh/cost

mario23

iTrader: (10)

Hey are you going to be using the same wheels for that staggered setuo?

ADMAN

iTrader: (9)

+1: You just need more seat time to get used to your new setup.



I went square AND one size down from what I was running. My car felt VERY different too.
Felt like I lowered the rear end or something. But, I soon discovered I could:

(1) Maintain A LOT more speed into the turn. Less braking.
(2) Didn't need to worry about the front end push as much. More control.
(3) Could start accelerating out much sooner. Less push also meant straighter exits.

I love the setup. However, now that the car is Supercharged, I'm not sure how this stance is going to feel under WOT.


I will see in October...

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Yep, 17x10 all around...

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Is that a 15mm spacer for the front and 10mm spacer for the rear? Note your typo - 295/35 --? 295/30. Fronts rolled also, and did you leave the JIC-FLT coilovers for next season?

first350

iTrader: (24)

yep, the 15mm spacer is for the front, and 10mm for the rear.

Front: 295/30/18
Rear: 315/30/18

front aren't really rolled...they rubbed a bit in the beginning during hard cornering - that 'rolled' them enough so that they no longer rub.

still have the JIC-FLT2 coilovers...they're working great - the shocks have no signs of leaking even w/ all of the abuse I've put on them.


**during hard cornering, both front and rear slightly rub on the inside...it's not much, but I can see where the tire makes contact with the interior components.